Bought new car...with direct injection

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Despite being adamantly opposed to buying a direct injected vehicle until they figured out intake valve carbon issue...my wife really needed a new car and wanted a Ford Escape, so rather than buying the anemic 2.5, I opted for the 2.0 Eco-boost(she is a sporty driver) knowing I would face these issues down the road.

My question is: would using an oil with the lowest possible volatility rating automatically cause the lowest possible intake valve deposits?
My dealer says they do BG intake cleanings on these engines "all the time" and have no issues but I thought Ford says the intake cleaning by that method destroys the turbocharger; so I would rather avoid the issue in the first place.
 
I'm guessing the dealer makes a pretty good profit on the BG intake cleaning and that's why they do it, in spite of Ford's recommendation to avoid doing it.

My parents have one with 65K miles. Run on MC Synblend 5w-30 it's life. It runs fine, no misfires at idle, no pinging.

I wouldn't worry about valve deposits.
 
Originally Posted By: another Todd
Despite being adamantly opposed to buying a direct injected vehicle until they figured out intake valve carbon issue...my wife really needed a new car and wanted a Ford Escape, so rather than buying the anemic 2.5, I opted for the 2.0 Eco-boost(she is a sporty driver) knowing I would face these issues down the road.

My question is: would using an oil with the lowest possible volatility rating automatically cause the lowest possible intake valve deposits?
My dealer says they do BG intake cleanings on these engines "all the time" and have no issues but I thought Ford says the intake cleaning by that method destroys the turbocharger; so I would rather avoid the issue in the first place.

I would ump those ILSAC GF-5 oils and went with Euo oils since they have lower NOACK.
Since that engine is specd. for lighter oil, I would not go above 13cst, so M1 0W40 FS with 12.9cst and HTHS of 3.6 would be good option. Maybe even better option would be Castrol 0W30 with cst of 12.1 and HTHS of 3.58. NOACK on those oils is very low and they are proven in much more demanding applications. I used nothing but Castrol 0W30/40 in my VW's and M1 0W40 (not as much) and never had issue with 2.0T.
Also, since you are in CA (low Sulfur in gas) you can try Mobil1 5W30 ESP. It is Low-SAPS oil. You not only need low volatility oil but lower SAPS oil. M1 ESP has NOACK of 5.6%, HTHS of 3.58.However, do UOA after 3K to see where is your TBN and TAN. I run it once in my previous car, VW CC in 2.0T engine, and TBN was at 2.1 after 3K, compliment of DI and high sulfur gas. However, CA has lower sulfur in gas, so it might work. You have M1 in NAPA sometimes on sale for $5.99 a liter, otherwise it is $109 for 12 liters on Amazon.
 
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Congrats on the new car. I wouldn't worry about valve deposits. If you want to minimize them then run an oil with a low NOACK and give it a good hard run every now and then. The extra heat on the intake valves will help burn off some of the deposits. Even if valves look filthy it may not be impacting performance and if it does it's likely not enough to notice during normal driving.
 
If the vtwin amsoil 20w40 wasn't so dang expensive I'd try running it, with it's impressive noack of 3.6%. So far I'm using pp 10w30 for the noack values. However pennzoil no longer lists the volatility and I am again in search of affordable low noack oil. May have to go to using amsoil SS....
 
Run the recommended oil for the recommended intervals.

Don't bother with the BG service. I've seen a before and after performed; it doesn't do a thing.

If you valve get dirty enough to cause an issue, remove the intake and clean the valves. (Or pay someone to do it for you.)

Simple as that.
 
Originally Posted By: another Todd
My question is: would using an oil with the lowest possible volatility rating automatically cause the lowest possible intake valve deposits?

People say this, however, I have not seen any proof one way or the other.
 
The local Ford dealer claims not to be seeing intake valve deposit issues on modern Fords. The tech's don't have to deal with it at all.

I suspect using a quality synthetic will help, as it's vapors, carried in by the PCV system are less likely to carbonize on the valves.

Plus, regardless of what anybody says, turbochargers still get hot, and they are still oil lubricated. A quality full synthetic oil will not produce carbon deposits on the hot side of the turbo.

Water cooling has significantly reduced the turbo failure issue. And turbo bearing/seal/shaft/housing designs have changed to be much more tolerant of minor hot-side coking. But it still happens, and it is still prevented by quality synthetic oils. People are simply unaware of what's happening when they use dino oils in turbocharged vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: another Todd
My question is: would using an oil with the lowest possible volatility rating automatically cause the lowest possible intake valve deposits?

People say this, however, I have not seen any proof one way or the other.


Neither have I. The cars we maintained regularly at VW, even once we switched to Castrol OE with its higher NOACK, never seemed to have an issue.

Even the cars we never saw until they had problems we didn't start to see until near the 100k mark. And who knows where and when and with what oil they got serviced with.

Ford has far fewer problems with deposits than VW, especially on their later engines. The earlier 3.5 is known to have some deposit issues; I don't know if it applies across the board but I don't think it does.
 
My advice, don't worry about it. I'd suggest sticking to top tier gas, use a quality oil preferably synthetic imo. Maybe add a bottle of Techron CFSC or Gumout Regane High Mileage FSC once an oci. Beyond that, just drive it and enjoy it.
 
I thought using good gas like Top Tier is supposed to be good for direct injection engines, less likely to cause deposit.
 
Most American and Asian cars do not have the really bad issues as many European cars. I would still spray out the throttle body every 10k with carb cleaner.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I thought using good gas like Top Tier is supposed to be good for direct injection engines, less likely to cause deposit.


"Top-Tier" fuel keeps your injector tips clean, which is more critical in Direct Injection engines.
 
New Escape? Then it has the 2nd version of the 2.0 Ecoboost. When I bought my Edge I asked about any issues with the 2.0 Ecoboost. All the replies said they were very reliable and issue free.
I plan to run mine on Mobil 1.
 
Originally Posted By: Jimzz
Most American and Asian cars do not have the really bad issues as many European cars. I would still spray out the throttle body every 10k with carb cleaner.

Of course they do not, they are late to the party, meaning, they waited for problems to be solved. Still after years of problems, Ford managed to make it even worse (3.5 Ecoboost dilution issues).
On other hand those that used DI technology had slew of issue that would make Audi famous 4.2 FSI and 3.2 FSI engines that were notorious for deposits and dilution, look like best DI engines out there (hint: Mazda Speed 6 or whatever the name was with 2.3 DISI engine (Ford based)).
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
The cars we maintained regularly at VW, even once we switched to Castrol OE with its higher NOACK, never seemed to have an issue.

Do you remember this thread from earlier this year? The guy claims to be an Audi service advisor and seeing 100 "horrid" looking engines running Castrol OE. Not sure what to make of it, and it may not be DI specific either.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...w40#Post4117747
 
I didn't remember it, but I did post in it and recall now that I've read it.

I'm not too sure to make of that thread either... We didn't not see NEAR as many issues at VW, and the engines, oils, and recommended intervals are identical. I suspect it comes down to how Audis are driven in the US: mostly trundled along in big cities on short trips by negligent owners vs. VWs which tend to have more "enthusiastic" owners.

Speaking in generalities, of course.
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
The local Ford dealer claims not to be seeing intake valve deposit issues on modern Fords. The tech's don't have to deal with it at all.


I can second and third this. I have not seen any issues or remember anyone else repairing one at the dealership I'm at.My brother-in-law works at a different Ford dealership and when we last talked about it said they hadn't seen any issues that he could remember.

The BG rep did however tell us that without their DI intake cleaning service all the EcoBoosts will carbon up at 30k. I'm pretty sure the guys selling catch cans have a similar story to tell
grin.gif
 
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