Synthetic Oil : OK At First Oil Change ?

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Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Thanks for the replies - I am now thinking to do a couple of shorter OCI's using Pennzoil Conventional Yellow Label 5W20 and when I get to 5,000 miles I will consider the switch to synthetic oil best for a DI engine .


That's a waste of time, money and resources but if stuff like that keeps you up at night then by all means.
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Thanks for the replies - I am now thinking to do a couple of shorter OCI's using Pennzoil Conventional Yellow Label 5W20 and when I get to 5,000 miles I will consider the switch to synthetic oil best for a DI engine .

Just follow the OLM while keeping it topped off and you'll be fine. Or just use 5000 mile OCI's. After 2 dino OCIs you should be in good shape. There is really no junk in a modern engine that gets removed with an early oil change.

Here's a picture of my son's oil filter from his new Chrysler V6 after an 8000+ mile initial run. Filter is clean w zero evidence of debris. His 1st 3 changes are with Mobil Super 5000 dino. Then synthetic.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...lte#Post4069441
 
No OLM on a Hyundai Sonata - you can set an electronic service reminder instead .
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
Some OEM doesn't clean the internals, from metal shavings very well. Ford does use white gloves to assemble as the majority of them do clean well, but a few recently stuttered on it.


That's laughable.


Why, never heard of VW EA 1L named tech engines or Hyunday's problems? What's laughable?

If you don't go seach before embarassing yourself.
 
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Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
Some OEM doesn't clean the internals, from metal shavings very well. Ford does use white gloves to assemble as the majority of them do clean well, but a few recently stuttered on it.


That's laughable.


Why, never heard of VW EA 1L named tech engines or Hyunday's problems? What's laughable?

If you don't go seach before embarassing yourself.


Oh I'm not embarrassed at all. You think Consuela in Chihuahua, Mexico gives two [censored] while she is assembling motors for Ford whether she is wearing white gloves or not?

To somehow imply that Ford is any better than other companies quality control in third world countries....yeah, that's ABSOLUTELY laughable.
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
jayg said:
jarad248 said:
Click on my post concerning the best oil in the world. castrol edge !!

VERY TRUE!

Castrol Edge has a reputation for lowest wear rates whilst sludging the block up if you push the OCI limits. Mobil 1 tends to wear out the block, BUT leaves it real clean. Shell or PennUltra beats them both and is often cheaper, BUT nothing beats Liqui Moly Synthoil & Ceratec in a real expensive low wear & long life double act!


I'd not seen any long-term wear issues with M1 being reported assuming a conservative OCI is followed and the correct viscosity being used. Where has you seen that happen/reported?
 
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Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Thanks for the replies - I am now thinking to do a couple of shorter OCI's using Pennzoil Conventional Yellow Label 5W20 and when I get to 5,000 miles I will consider the switch to synthetic oil best for a DI engine .


When I had my rebuilt engine installed in my truck I ran Supertech conventional for three short OCI runs. 150 miles then 300 miles and the last was about 500 miles. I was seeing metal flake in the drained oil. It was very fine mind you but I just didn't want it circulating in my engine more than it had to. Afterwards I ran PYB and QSGB for two 1500 mile runs. I then ran Motorcraft out to 8000 miles. The last oil change was with NAPA synthetic I bought on sale. I have a large stash of oil which consists of conventional, blend, and synthetic. Sale prices were good on all of them. So over the next 8 oil changes I will be running whatever bottle I grab next.
 
Originally Posted By: MRtv
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Thanks for the replies - I am now thinking to do a couple of shorter OCI's using Pennzoil Conventional Yellow Label 5W20 and when I get to 5,000 miles I will consider the switch to synthetic oil best for a DI engine .


When I had my rebuilt engine installed in my truck I ran Supertech conventional for three short OCI runs. 150 miles then 300 miles and the last was about 500 miles. I was seeing metal flake in the drained oil. It was very fine mind you but I just didn't want it circulating in my engine more than it had to. Afterwards I ran PYB and QSGB for two 1500 mile runs. I then ran Motorcraft out to 8000 miles. The last oil change was with NAPA synthetic I bought on sale. I have a large stash of oil which consists of conventional, blend, and synthetic. Sale prices were good on all of them. So over the next 8 oil changes I will be running whatever bottle I grab next.


So again, a rebuilt engine might have more or less metal shavings but new from the factory , you shouldn't have any issues running synthetic whenever you want for the full interval.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: MRtv
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Thanks for the replies - I am now thinking to do a couple of shorter OCI's using Pennzoil Conventional Yellow Label 5W20 and when I get to 5,000 miles I will consider the switch to synthetic oil best for a DI engine .


When I had my rebuilt engine installed in my truck I ran Supertech conventional for three short OCI runs. 150 miles then 300 miles and the last was about 500 miles. I was seeing metal flake in the drained oil. It was very fine mind you but I just didn't want it circulating in my engine more than it had to. Afterwards I ran PYB and QSGB for two 1500 mile runs. I then ran Motorcraft out to 8000 miles. The last oil change was with NAPA synthetic I bought on sale. I have a large stash of oil which consists of conventional, blend, and synthetic. Sale prices were good on all of them. So over the next 8 oil changes I will be running whatever bottle I grab next.


So again, a rebuilt engine might have more or less metal shavings but new from the factory , you shouldn't have any issues running synthetic whenever you want for the full interval.


Well, maybe. Case in point: The Hyundai/Kia 2.4L and 2.0L engine failures due to left over metal shaving from the manufacturing process (in AL plant for 2011 to 2013 engines). They finally fessed up and now offer an extended short-block (and sometimes the full long-block) replacement for ALL owners (1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc.) for 10Yrs/120K miles. I have my Kia notice in hand. The shavings (if present) caused oil starvation to the rod bearings, resulting eventually in a very bad rod knock and seized engines, etc. They switched to a better process and eliminated the problem.

For reasons like this, I'm in favor of an early replacement of the FF (say 2K miles).
 
Originally Posted By: WhizkidTN


Well, maybe. Case in point: The Hyundai/Kia 2.4L and 2.0L engine failures due to left over metal shaving from the manufacturing process (in AL plant for 2011 to 2013 engines). They finally fessed up and now offer an extended short-block (and sometimes the full long-block) replacement for ALL owners (1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc.) for 10Yrs/120K miles. I have my Kia notice in hand. The shavings (if present) caused oil starvation to the rod bearings, resulting eventually in a very bad rod knock and seized engines, etc. They switched to a better process and eliminated the problem.

For reasons like this, I'm in favor of an early replacement of the FF (say 2K miles).


I mean that's a whole other issue in itself. Even dumping a FF on a terribly machined KIA still doesn't guarantee life shortening wear hasn't already happened OR will now be prevented because new oil is in there. If it's bad enough for them to offer short block replacement, I'd rather have it lunch itself sooner than later just for peace of mind not knowing when it is going to happen .
 
The Kia / Hyundai engine issue would present a case for early drain & fill . Interesting that Hyundai said of new 2017 2.4L to come in for a first oil change before 3,750 miles . At 1,000 miles the FF is coming out and replaced with Pennzoil conventional 5W20 for 2,000 miles then I will let Hyundai get their first service in so it's on record (Hyundai service uses syn blend) . After that I'm moving to synthetic with my own oil changes .
 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: jarad248
Click on my post concerning the best oil in the world. castrol edge !!

The engineers of fastest production car in the world have figured that out.

Click here for my post and click the video in the link, good day....

Click here >>> Castrol edge info and video



This is like saying Gatorade is the best drink in the world because Michael Phelps drinks it and he's the fastest swimmer currently. There are LOTS of best oils for LOTS of different applications.

The "best" oil for one thing isn't the "best" for another.


Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
I made a post asking that same question if it's ok to run a synthetic in the first oil change, and i didn't get the clear yes / no answer i wanted.
A lot of engine builders that i know don't recomend using a synthetic during the first oil change and advise people not to.



If you have a REbuild by Bob's machine shop, then yeah they may say run conventional for the first change because that's their policy. I would debate that policy is likely outdated if their work is truw, but if they are offering a warranty then just follow their advice.

If you have an OEM fresh motor then you can switch to synthetic anytime. Lots of new cars, not just high end ones, come with synthetic from the factory.


VERY TRUE!

Castrol Edge has a reputation for lowest wear rates whilst sludging the block up if you push the OCI limits. Mobil 1 tends to wear out the block, BUT leaves it real clean. Shell or PennUltra beats them both and is often cheaper, BUT nothing beats Liqui Moly Synthoil & Ceratec in a real expensive low wear & long life double act!


Hmm. Your comments about M1 tending to wear out the block got me doing some quickie research at least.
First thing up is testing/tear-down of M1 run engine with 3rd party engineers:
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why-the-...re-service-test

I really stopped there as I would love to see what info you have (links??) that details what you are claiming about M1.
 
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