Camber Kit And Alignment Kia Sportage

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Hi, first post here and new to diy auto care. So I recently put a new set of tires on my 2007 Kia Sportage FWD, after the last set was showing cords well within 2 years of install. The front passenger tread was worn significantly on the outer edge - so I thought that I would have a suspension check by my local trusted mechanic. The alignment report showed positive camber on the front passenger at 0.67 degrees, the back passenger at -1.19 degrees, the front driver side at -0.40, and the back driver side at -1.07. I'm not sure what manufacturer tolerances are, but the shop recommend camber kits on both the front and the back. With alignment, camber kits, and replacement of a busted boot on a sway bar link, they estimated $504. This is might be fair because they do good work, but a little tough to swallow after dropping $450 on tires, $180 on brake parts, and $275 for 8 plugs and wires on my second vehicle (installed).

So here's my question. It looks like the way to adjust the camber on my Kia is where the two bolts attach the wheel hub to the strut. I can order a MOOG K90474 cam bolt on rock auto for $12. Would replacing the top bolt on each strut provide enough correction to get my camber in check? Or would I need two bolts on each strut? I'm just looking to avoid the insane mark up on these bolts/installation so that I can have an alignment done by my local shop.

Thanks for the help!
 
Yup, just do the top strut bolt (or the one specified by instructions.) The cam bolts being skinnier than stock are slightly weaker and it's good to have an OE bolt in the other hole.

The LF at -.4 is probably okay, I'd leave it alone and try to get the passenger side to match. Actually I'd leave the rear alone as well for starters.

Once you monkey with camber, you'll move your toe, so you'll have to set that, too. I use a laser pointer on the tire sidewall at 4 and 8 oclock pointing at the other axle, so that the red dot just barely misses said sidewall. You can also go back for an alignment where they'll be happy to set your toe and confirm you fixed the camber.

Sway bar links are about $12 on ebay and you can change 'em yourself, but you'll probably have to cut the old ones off due to rust.
 
Thanks for the response eljefino. You said that you wouldn't mess with the back camber, so I'm guessing that a negative camber on the back is a good thing? It looks like on their analysis sheet that -0.92 is in the middle of the chart for back axle camber ... -1.07 and -1.19 doesn't seem too far off (I'm assuming here)?

Is it wrong to think that I should add cam bolts to both sides even though the LF is in range? I guess it's just burned in my brain to always do things in pairs when it comes to suspension, brakes, etc.

One more thing ... if the cam bolts are slightly weaker, might it be a good idea to replace the lower bolt with something new, in case there is additional stress on the old factory bolt?
 
Don't overthink! The camber bolt will have instructions and they wouldn't sell them if they were that dangerous. Best deal is to use as many OE parts as you can from a liability standpoint, in case you get some counterfeit low grade bolts from Lowes or something.

Camber bolts are already a hack to cover for an OE manufacturer that chose cheapo macpherson struts that aren't adjustable. Don't cover the lie with another lie by fixing a side that isn't broken. Eg just fix one corner.

Does this van pull? When you have the same (negative) camber on both sides they fight it out and track straight. But with negative on the left and positive on the right it should pull right, unless it was done to fix a wreck or something.
 
Not sure if your question was rhetorical; I'll answer anyways haha. Yeah it doesn't really pull, so it's not an issue of driveability, just premature/uneven tire wear. I don't want to tear through a new set in under two years.
 
If it doesn't pull but "should pull" by the numbers, that's a little odd.

Just fix the RF and set the toe.
 
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