Robust 0W20 alternative to Castrol 5W20 ? JLR V8

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Dec 5, 2004
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Late model Jaguar / Land Rover with the AJ-V8 Gen III 5.0L that was originally filled with Castrol Edge Pro 5W20.

My rig will see lots of sub-zero cold starts so my plan is to switch to a high-quality 0W20 synthetic. Good idea?

Of these readily-available options in my market does one stand out as the best choice for engine protection?

Motul 8100 Eco
Liqui Moly Special Tec AA
Mobil 1 AFE
Mobil 1 EP

As a side note, this info from a Land Rover forum is interesting.


My shop has switched to 0w20(Castrol Edge Pro E) on the 5L engines completely (unless 5w20 is requested by a customer) and I personally use it in my own engine.

The +15my 5L and the SCV6 have now switched their spec to 0w20, with almost no internal changes to the engine. I have done all the research that lead me to make the switch, but all on my work computer, but Castrol specs the 0w20 pro-e as backwards compatible for JLR engines that spec 5w20.

My main reason for making the switch was the number of VVT faults(P0016/1 when the weather got cold. Most were absolutely fine if restarted after running for a few minutes, and had no further issues following a simple oil change, but several required VVT actuator replacement. The spec change by LR for the newer model years have followed a very minor change to the internals of those very actuators.
 
This is a pic of my 2007 Fusion with 195K. Most of these miles have been using M1 0-20AFE at 10K OCIs with MC filters. To date this engine is very clesn, shows no sign of engine wear including the OHC chains and guides.
 
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I don't know your location but in the lower 48 it's hard to beat Mobil 1 0w20 AFE at Walmart 5 qt. jug prices.
 
Are you in the US?

I know it's not in your 4 choices but Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0w20 is a fantastic oil. I've started it down to -35F now unassisted and it can go long drains with no problem. It may be much cheaper than the Motul options if you have a Toyota dealer close by.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Are you in the US?

I know it's not in your 4 choices but Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0w20 is a fantastic oil. I've started it down to -35F now unassisted and it can go long drains with no problem. It may be much cheaper than the Motul options if you have a Toyota dealer close by.





Yes the Toyota 0W20 synthetic is easy to get at a low price but it is actually a better oil than the ones I listed above?
 
Originally Posted By: ringmaster
Originally Posted By: jayg
Are you in the US?

I know it's not in your 4 choices but Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0w20 is a fantastic oil. I've started it down to -35F now unassisted and it can go long drains with no problem. It may be much cheaper than the Motul options if you have a Toyota dealer close by.





Yes the Toyota 0W20 synthetic is easy to get at a low price but it is actually a better oil than the ones I listed above?


I would have no doubt it would give you just as much protection. It flows very quickly at extreme low temps and can still do 10k intervals without breaking a sweat.


I see your location is "North". How north is "North"?
 
In comparing the two Mobil 0W20 options, can someone please explain the differences and suggest which might be better for my application?

I am interested in maximum engine protection, hot and cold, with a max OCI of 7k miles or 12 months.
 
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Originally Posted By: zeng
TGMO 0W20 is relatively more shear prone than some or most other 0W20s.
JMHO though.


Relatively more than some or most?



Anyway, if its actually subjected to subzero temperatures for long periods of time does it have a block/ oil pan heater that gets used? With that you can run essentially whatever 20 wt you want in the winter and not have to worry maximum oil performance at all as it will be out performing any 0w20 thats not already warm.
 
So, we have now reached a point where a full synthetic 5W-20 is too thick for sub zero temperatures, so we're now switching to a full synthetic 0W-20. That's gotta be a new milestone for thin oil people.
 
M1 EP or AFE are probably as close as you can get to an oil with the formal approval, without actually having that formal approval. I know that that SM versions of M1 in the appropriate viscosity had their oddball spec, but that seems to have disappeared.
 
Can you not get Edge Pro E 0w-20? Personally, I'd stick with Edge Pro A1 5w-20, It's got a full SAPS A5/B5 add pack, TBN 10+. It's about as robust as it gets for a 20 grade. 0w-20 GF-5 lubes are not really comparable.
 
Originally Posted By: supercity
Can you not get Edge Pro E 0w-20? Personally, I'd stick with Edge Pro A1 5w-20, It's got a full SAPS A5/B5 add pack, TBN 10+. It's about as robust as it gets for a 20 grade. 0w-20 GF-5 lubes are not really comparable.





I can get the OE-spec Castrol EDGE Professional A1 5W-20 but my thinking was that a good 0W20 might be better suited to very cold starts while providing the same hot running protection. My oil knowledge gets a bit fuzzy when we start talking add packs and TBN but if you say that 5W20 is a more robust oil that might change my mind re going to 0W20.

One option I overlooked is the Amsoil Signature Series 0W20.

Castrol EDGE Professional A1 5W-20
@ 100C 8.1
@ 40C 44
HTHS ??
Pour Point -36C
Flash Point 205C
Viscosity CCS @ -30C 4500

Amsoil Signature Series 0W20
@ 100C 8.7
@ 40C 46.6
HTHS 2.7
Pour Point -53C
Flash Point 228C
Viscosity CCS @ -35C 4290

So the Amsoil has a much lower Pour Point, Higher Flash Point and higher viscosity at 100C. Doesn't this equal win, win, win or am I missing some key points?

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W20 also looks better on paper (to me) than the Castrol.

@ 100C 8.8
@ 40C 48
HTHS ???
Pour Point -48C
Flash Point 224C
Viscosity CCS @ -30C 4050
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
So, we have now reached a point where a full synthetic 5W-20 is too thick for sub zero temperatures, so we're now switching to a full synthetic 0W-20. That's gotta be a new milestone for thin oil people.


I run 10w40 in the same subzero temperature as my wife's Prius with 0w20. If you need a 20wt spec oil in sustained subzero temperatures then something like 0w20 makes sense because the base stocks used to make virtually all 0w20 oils are stout. A full synthetic 0w20 IS better than a blend 5w20 in actual extreme temperatures.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
So, we have now reached a point where a full synthetic 5W-20 is too thick for sub zero temperatures, so we're now switching to a full synthetic 0W-20. That's gotta be a new milestone for thin oil people.


Didn't that happen five years ago or more.....??? How many fingers?? Who's the president?? ((smelling salts}}
 
I'm running Castrol Edge E 0w20 which is the only oil that meets JLR'S newer spec. I plan to run this thru the warranty period at 7k/1year intervals vs JLR'S 16k/1yr timeliness. After the warranty is up it's Wallmart 5qt jugs of whatever M1 0w20 I can find and not worry about it.
 
Originally Posted By: Ryan02SS
I'm running Castrol Edge E 0w20 which is the only oil that meets JLR'S newer spec. I plan to run this thru the warranty period at 7k/1year intervals vs JLR'S 16k/1yr timeliness.


Is this what you are using? Castrol EDGE Professional E 0W-20 Boosted with TITANIUM FST™ - Strength for Maximum Performance

Typical Characteristics
Name Method Units Castrol EDGE Professional E 0W-20
Density @ 15C, Relative ASTM D4052 g/ml 0.8421
Viscosity, Kinematic 100C ASTM D445 mm²/s 8.0
Viscosity, CCS -35C ASTM D5293 mPa.s (cP) 4400
Viscosity, Kinematic 40C ASTM D445 mm²/s 42
Viscosity Index ASTM D2270 None 170
Ash, Sulphated ASTM D874 % wt 0.81
Pour Point ASTM D97 °C -54
Flash Point, PMCC ASTM D93 °C 210

Jaguar Land Rover engine oil specification STJLR.51.5122
 
Yup
laugh.gif
 
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