If you love it just change it every 4K miles on that engine. If you don't "love" the car you could always sell it.
Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ
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MolaKule
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You might try the LC20 by LCD as it slowly softens sludge and disperses it into the oil.
The plus here is that the sludge has a tarry form and is not baked.
The plus here is that the sludge has a tarry form and is not baked.
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
You might try the LC20 by LCD as it slowly softens sludge and disperses it into the oil.
The plus here is that the sludge has a tarry form and is not baked.
How much and for how long for the amount of sludge in there?
You might try the LC20 by LCD as it slowly softens sludge and disperses it into the oil.
The plus here is that the sludge has a tarry form and is not baked.
How much and for how long for the amount of sludge in there?
I wasn't trying to give you a hard time at all with my response. I apologize if it seemed that way.
I do think it is not the best design as far as the motor oil capacity goes. Too small of a capacity for a motor like that. My Ford Fusion had 5.5 qts for a 3.0L. The longest I've gone with a interval was 6800 miles on old Pennzoil Ultra.
I hope you can get this all straightened out and that it will be a good circumstance going forward. I hope you continue to get a lot of good help in this forum. There are a decent number good knowledgeable people on here.
I do think it is not the best design as far as the motor oil capacity goes. Too small of a capacity for a motor like that. My Ford Fusion had 5.5 qts for a 3.0L. The longest I've gone with a interval was 6800 miles on old Pennzoil Ultra.
I hope you can get this all straightened out and that it will be a good circumstance going forward. I hope you continue to get a lot of good help in this forum. There are a decent number good knowledgeable people on here.
I would not be concerned about using an idle flush additive in a heavily sludged engine, BUT I would be careful about using a drive around flush like MMO. Liqui Moly who make a variety of flush additives do warn not to use their drive around flush in a heavily sludged engine unless the sump and oil pump intake are cleaned first. They also warn that you should keep the revs low when in use. There are no warnings about the use of their idle flush.
Doing a few short OCI's with a good cleaner oil (One with a lot of detergents) will shift the sludge, BUT it takes a long time to remove top end varnish, so unless you intend doing a full manual clean up (Big messy job), I would use an idle flush.
Doing a few short OCI's with a good cleaner oil (One with a lot of detergents) will shift the sludge, BUT it takes a long time to remove top end varnish, so unless you intend doing a full manual clean up (Big messy job), I would use an idle flush.
There's lots of good advice here. I always err on the side of caution. I am cautious about idle flushes. That's not to say there is no use for them. However, I use an idle flush (or any aggressive flushing product) if and only if I am prepared to immediately pull the engine and tear it down to fix any problems that might arise subsequently. I used a strong flush in the old F-150. But, it was being torn down anyhow, so no matter what damage could hypothetically be caused would be rather irrelevant.
I'd be using shortish oil changes for the time being, and Mola always offers good advice. If he recommends a product, it's just about guaranteed to be safe.
I'd be using shortish oil changes for the time being, and Mola always offers good advice. If he recommends a product, it's just about guaranteed to be safe.
Were it my vehicle, I'd use HDEO 15W40 for two 2,000 mile OCs.
Good luck!
Good luck!
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: MarcS
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
You might try the LC20 by LCD as it slowly softens sludge and disperses it into the oil.
The plus here is that the sludge has a tarry form and is not baked.
How much and for how long for the amount of sludge in there?
As you know I don' usually recommend OTC additives unless I know there is a specific product that may work for a very specific problem.
In this case, "slow and easy" does it.
I would use two ounces per quart of LC20 initially after an oil change, and then later use one ounce per quart after each oil change until the sludge is removed.
And one other item should be in the forefront, and that is to change filters every 1000 miles while using any engine cleaner.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
You might try the LC20 by LCD as it slowly softens sludge and disperses it into the oil.
The plus here is that the sludge has a tarry form and is not baked.
How much and for how long for the amount of sludge in there?
As you know I don' usually recommend OTC additives unless I know there is a specific product that may work for a very specific problem.
In this case, "slow and easy" does it.
I would use two ounces per quart of LC20 initially after an oil change, and then later use one ounce per quart after each oil change until the sludge is removed.
And one other item should be in the forefront, and that is to change filters every 1000 miles while using any engine cleaner.
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MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: MarcS
Is that initial 2oz per quart meant to be an idle flush or run for an entire oil change?
You can run it for entire oil change.
LC20 has various cleaners and additional AW, rust inhibitors, and metal de-activator additives.
Is that initial 2oz per quart meant to be an idle flush or run for an entire oil change?
You can run it for entire oil change.
LC20 has various cleaners and additional AW, rust inhibitors, and metal de-activator additives.
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Thanks for your help. Ordered some LC and stocked up on cheap filters and cheap bulk chevron 5w30. Ready for some rapid-fire 1-2k mile oil changes. Should go pretty rapidly as i put on a lot of miles with sales calls each week. I'll post updates.
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Quick question on what I should expect with this concoction. I've had 12oz of LC20 in with the latest fill (whatever conventional the dealership used after completing repairs) for about 300 miles so far, which was a few local trips and a ~200 mile highway run. You could smell the LC20 on the dipstick strongly for about the first 150 miles or so then whatever that pleasant smell is apparently flashed off. The oil has not darkened appreciably but this was described as a slow cleaner, so I'm not sure if that is to be expected.
At 1000 miles, I'm going to replace the filter and cut the used one open for inspection. By that point, should the oil be changed or should I just add another few oz of LC20 and run another 1k? Better to base that decision on the color of the oil at the time and how much crud I find in the filter? Given that 5qts of chevron and a filter runs me about $16, it's not a cost issue, just want to make sure I'm using everything correctly and to its full potential
At 1000 miles, I'm going to replace the filter and cut the used one open for inspection. By that point, should the oil be changed or should I just add another few oz of LC20 and run another 1k? Better to base that decision on the color of the oil at the time and how much crud I find in the filter? Given that 5qts of chevron and a filter runs me about $16, it's not a cost issue, just want to make sure I'm using everything correctly and to its full potential
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Interesting to see how the LC20 does.
Cutting your filter will give you a good idea what if anything is migrating and how much of it.
Delvac 1300 diesel engine oil has more dispersants and detergents than most all oils formulated for gasoline engines.
It'll clean up nasty stuff pretty quick.
UD
Cutting your filter will give you a good idea what if anything is migrating and how much of it.
Delvac 1300 diesel engine oil has more dispersants and detergents than most all oils formulated for gasoline engines.
It'll clean up nasty stuff pretty quick.
UD
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: MarcS
Quick question on what I should expect with this concoction. I've had 12oz of LC20 in with the latest fill (whatever conventional the dealership used after completing repairs) for about 300 miles so far, which was a few local trips and a ~200 mile highway run. You could smell the LC20 on the dipstick strongly for about the first 150 miles or so then whatever that pleasant smell is apparently flashed off. The oil has not darkened appreciably but this was described as a slow cleaner, so I'm not sure if that is to be expected.
At 1000 miles, I'm going to replace the filter and cut the used one open for inspection. By that point, should the oil be changed or should I just add another few oz of LC20 and run another 1k? Better to base that decision on the color of the oil at the time and how much crud I find in the filter? Given that 5qts of chevron and a filter runs me about $16, it's not a cost issue, just want to make sure I'm using everything correctly and to its full potential
I would just top it off with the Chevron.
As to what to expect? A slow cleaning so don't expect an overnight miracle.
Quick question on what I should expect with this concoction. I've had 12oz of LC20 in with the latest fill (whatever conventional the dealership used after completing repairs) for about 300 miles so far, which was a few local trips and a ~200 mile highway run. You could smell the LC20 on the dipstick strongly for about the first 150 miles or so then whatever that pleasant smell is apparently flashed off. The oil has not darkened appreciably but this was described as a slow cleaner, so I'm not sure if that is to be expected.
At 1000 miles, I'm going to replace the filter and cut the used one open for inspection. By that point, should the oil be changed or should I just add another few oz of LC20 and run another 1k? Better to base that decision on the color of the oil at the time and how much crud I find in the filter? Given that 5qts of chevron and a filter runs me about $16, it's not a cost issue, just want to make sure I'm using everything correctly and to its full potential
I would just top it off with the Chevron.
As to what to expect? A slow cleaning so don't expect an overnight miracle.
I don't have pictures for the update, but I just did 1100 miles since adding the LC20. I removed the filter (Nissan factory filter) and cut it open. The filter didn't look too bad. Wasn't loaded with sludge or anything, but there were definitely tiny flecks of black carbon in the pleats. The plan was to just throw on a new filter, but the oil that drained when i pulled the filter was pretty opaque, so I drained it as well. Put on a new filter, added some fresh Chevron 5w30 and another dose of LC20. Will change and check the filter again in another 1000 miles. If that one looks the same or better, i'll probably extend the interval slightly.
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It might be a good idea to read the instructions on the LC20 web site, as they say it should be added during the OCI, which is very different to other additives.
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Originally Posted By: MarcS
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: vitez
I've used Amsoil Engine and Transmission flush in the last 5 used vehicles I've bought and never had any engine issues.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ot...?code=FLSHCN-EA
If your engine still exhibits some sludge after 25K of M1, I would do an engine flush. The Amsoil product is a detergent, not a solvent, and extremely unlikely to break off big chunks of anything. Besides, by your description you don't have big chunks of anything anyway!
I agree, using a flush designed for use at idle would get the block clean far faster than just doing short OCI's with a good cleaner oil.
Just concerned something like that will send any remaining sludge right back into the problem areas that were just cleaned or replaced. Most of them have warnings abot using on heavily slidged engines and I dont know what they consider "heavily sludged"
The only warning from Liqui Moly is for the use of their drive around flush, not their idle use ones. It just recommends that you clean the sump and oil pump intake before use and keep the revs low.
If removing the sump is difficult, a lot of Indy garages just rinse the block through with diesel before using an idle flush. In a bad case like yours it is worth doing a double flush.
If you have an oil leaks, changing to a high detergent full synthetic or using an idle flush can make oil leaks worse, as the sludge and varnish can help old worn or split oil seals or gaskets work (It's called the false oil seal effect). In a bad case it might be best to use an HM oil or even some stop leak as a precaution after flushing.
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: vitez
I've used Amsoil Engine and Transmission flush in the last 5 used vehicles I've bought and never had any engine issues.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ot...?code=FLSHCN-EA
If your engine still exhibits some sludge after 25K of M1, I would do an engine flush. The Amsoil product is a detergent, not a solvent, and extremely unlikely to break off big chunks of anything. Besides, by your description you don't have big chunks of anything anyway!
I agree, using a flush designed for use at idle would get the block clean far faster than just doing short OCI's with a good cleaner oil.
Just concerned something like that will send any remaining sludge right back into the problem areas that were just cleaned or replaced. Most of them have warnings abot using on heavily slidged engines and I dont know what they consider "heavily sludged"
The only warning from Liqui Moly is for the use of their drive around flush, not their idle use ones. It just recommends that you clean the sump and oil pump intake before use and keep the revs low.
If removing the sump is difficult, a lot of Indy garages just rinse the block through with diesel before using an idle flush. In a bad case like yours it is worth doing a double flush.
If you have an oil leaks, changing to a high detergent full synthetic or using an idle flush can make oil leaks worse, as the sludge and varnish can help old worn or split oil seals or gaskets work (It's called the false oil seal effect). In a bad case it might be best to use an HM oil or even some stop leak as a precaution after flushing.
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
It might be a good idea to read the instructions on the LC20 web site, as they say it should be added during the OCI, which is very different to other additives.
The instructions call for a large initial dose then adding a couple ounces every 1k, which is pretty much the instructions molakule gave me above...
It might be a good idea to read the instructions on the LC20 web site, as they say it should be added during the OCI, which is very different to other additives.
The instructions call for a large initial dose then adding a couple ounces every 1k, which is pretty much the instructions molakule gave me above...
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