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Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: demarpaint] #4274541 12/14/16 10:49 AM
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UltrafanUK Offline
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: jarad248

Thought on cleaning the ring packs up to further reduce oil consumption....

It is a myth that transmission fluid has more detergent in it that oil. why would anyone think that?
Transmissions are a closed system with nothing coming in to contaminate !!

Diesel oil has a lot of detergent.

You wanna clean your engine out the safe way.? run a light weight oil like castrol edge high mileage 0w20 or 5w20.

Run it for around 500-1500 miles. then change it for whatever you like. castrol edge is the best though.

If you want to use a safe potion try >>stp gumout multi engine<< or seafoam multi engine treatment in your oil for 1500 miles.

When you have room add 8 to 10 oz.

when it gets dirty change it. Please remember no oil in the world will ever handle acid build up beyond 7500 miles.


The first I'm hearing of using Castrol Edge 0W20 and 5W20 for 500-1500 miles as an engine cleaner. I have my doubts.
I wouldn't be adding STP or Gumout fuel system cleaners to my oil either. I think either one will do more harm than good.


Agreed, It's a waste of money using an expensive 0w20 as a cleaner AND most types of Edge do not have enough detergents to be good cleaner anyway.

No idea why anyone would want to use a fuel additive in the oil or STP thickner for a black death sludge case.
Perhaps it's to kill off an old block!

PS: I'm not a fan of combined oil and fuel additives, as some of the worst snake oils say they can be used in the fuel AND oil. Some even say they can be used in both the engine and gearbox.

Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4274570 12/14/16 11:37 AM
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Vikas Offline
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Quote:
fast forward another 25k mi and i get a check engine light for low oil pressure and camshaft timing. Dealerhip finds a blown oil gallery gasket (not uncommon) and goes to replace under warranty. Turns out the engine is kinda gross inside an and the gallery is sludgy, as is the cam actuator.
Did everybody just skipped this part where 25K miles have been put on the engine using M1 oil? If that did NOT already clean the engine, how the snake oil remedies is going to clean this engine? It sure looks like the sludge is actively being built for that 25K miles instead being eliminated. My guess would be some coolant is sipping in the engine oil leading to the sludge.

Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: Vikas] #4274607 12/14/16 12:41 PM
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MarcS Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
fast forward another 25k mi and i get a check engine light for low oil pressure and camshaft timing. Dealerhip finds a blown oil gallery gasket (not uncommon) and goes to replace under warranty. Turns out the engine is kinda gross inside an and the gallery is sludgy, as is the cam actuator.
Did everybody just skipped this part where 25K miles have been put on the engine using M1 oil? If that did NOT already clean the engine, how the snake oil remedies is going to clean this engine? It sure looks like the sludge is actively being built for that 25K miles instead being eliminated. My guess would be some coolant is sipping in the engine oil leading to the sludge.


There's no evidence to support that. Maybe you're just overestimating the cleaning ability of mobil 1?

Last edited by MarcS; 12/14/16 12:44 PM.
Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4274611 12/14/16 12:48 PM
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demarpaint Offline
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Originally Posted By: MarcS
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
fast forward another 25k mi and i get a check engine light for low oil pressure and camshaft timing. Dealerhip finds a blown oil gallery gasket (not uncommon) and goes to replace under warranty. Turns out the engine is kinda gross inside an and the gallery is sludgy, as is the cam actuator.
Did everybody just skipped this part where 25K miles have been put on the engine using M1 oil? If that did NOT already clean the engine, how the snake oil remedies is going to clean this engine? It sure looks like the sludge is actively being built for that 25K miles instead being eliminated. My guess would be some coolant is sipping in the engine oil leading to the sludge.


There's no evidence to support that. Maybe you're just overestimating the cleaning ability of mobil 1?


Not only Mobil 1 it could be the cleaning ability of synthetic oil in general is over estimated. I think synthetic oil can do some cleaning, and keep a clean engine clean. Using it as a stand alone cleaner could take a very long time, very long, and the results might be disappointing and not worth the wait.


God Bless Our Troops

Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4274892 12/14/16 06:07 PM
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What do you mean by blown oil gallery gasket, cos if that is what the Iffylube or stealer said, they might have meant HG and HG failures are the main cause of sludge cases when the car has had regular oil and filter jobs with a sensible oil and OCI being used.

Anti freeze reacts with detergents and effectively stops the detergents working and that then results in sludge, as the blowby products (Mostly Carbon) then drop out of suspension and form sludge fairly quickly.

Last edited by UltrafanUK; 12/14/16 06:08 PM.
Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: UltrafanUK] #4274894 12/14/16 06:10 PM
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MarcS Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
What do you mean by blown oil gallery gasket, cos if that is what the Iffylube or stealer said, they might have meant HG and HG failures are the main cause of sludge cases when the car has had regular oil and filter jobs with a sensible oil and OCI being used.

Anti freeze reacts with detergents and effectively stops the detergents working and that then results in sludge, as the blowby products (Mostly Carbon) then drop out of suspension and form sludge fairly quickly.


It's a gasket that seals an oil gallery on the rear timing chain cover. Not uncommon on VQs



Last edited by MarcS; 12/14/16 06:13 PM.
Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4290067 12/31/16 09:58 PM
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Honestly, being familiar with the Nissan 3.5, the timing cover is likely the most susceptible area for deposits. The block and head/cam areas see quite a bit of oil splash and should stay pretty clean running a good synthetic oil at a reasonable interval.
My wifes Quest 3.5 recently turned 70k miles. I have been running Amsoil 0w40 Euro formula at 7500 mile intervals. I can see the cam and a decent amount of the cylinder head through the oil fill hole, and all appears spotless.
I think the additive you are running should clean up what little sludge is likely left and I would then run a synthetic 0w40 of your choice.


2008 Ford F350
2008 Kia Spectra
2011 Nissan Quest
1986 Pontiac Trans Am
1940 Ford 9N Tractor
Amsoil lubes and filters!
Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: cronk] #4294087 01/05/17 12:30 PM
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MarcS Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: cronk
Honestly, being familiar with the Nissan 3.5, the timing cover is likely the most susceptible area for deposits. The block and head/cam areas see quite a bit of oil splash and should stay pretty clean running a good synthetic oil at a reasonable interval.
My wifes Quest 3.5 recently turned 70k miles. I have been running Amsoil 0w40 Euro formula at 7500 mile intervals. I can see the cam and a decent amount of the cylinder head through the oil fill hole, and all appears spotless.
I think the additive you are running should clean up what little sludge is likely left and I would then run a synthetic 0w40 of your choice.


I'm on my 3rd cycle of Mola's recommendation above and I am suspecting this is correct. I've cut open 3 filters so far (every 1000 miles and each of them have had some tiny black carbon flecs deep in the pleats, but otherwise looked pretty good and were nowhere near their holding capacity despite the fact that nissan uses lawnmower-size oil filters. I'm guessing the replacement of the front timing cover and components as well as the pan drop and manual cleaning got the vast majority of crud remaining after my 30k of diligent maintenance. After the next short change interval uses my last jug of cheap conventional, I think it's back to synthetic and standard OCI's. Maybe i've just browsed this board too much, but I might purchase a couple UOA kits and send in the next few oil changes just to see where the engine stands and for my peace of mind.

Last edited by MarcS; 01/05/17 12:31 PM.
Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4300008 01/11/17 09:40 PM
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Go for gold! drain it, dump in 2 quarts of Valvoline 70wt racing oil, and a gallon of seafoam. Race it around the block and drain it.

More seriously seafoam is pretty good, 3 or 4oz in the crankcase with your oil can help a lot.

Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4595365 12/05/17 07:10 PM
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Hi MarcS,

Did you ever get your Nissan clean? Just thought I would ask.


Respectfully,

Pajero!


Always remember "Planned obsolescence."

1994 Montero SR 3.5 DOHC, 133,xxx
Fram Ultra/ Snorkel with Pre-filter
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Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4595578 12/06/17 12:12 AM
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If you have the various covers off, I would recommend pouring LC20 (from LCD, Inc) on everything and then scraping off anything the LC20 couldn't soften.

This appears to be a case of OCI neglect and running the oil way too long. Nissan engines seem to run hot and shear oil.

My experience with Nissan engines is they do best with 10W30's and Severe service OCI's.

I would also recommend a coolant change and an immediate ATF change.


Charlie Eppes: "Larry, have a minute?"
Dr. Larry Fleinhardt: "Yes. Because we all have exactly the same number of minutes at all times, do we not?" From NUMB3RS
Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4681142 02/28/18 11:55 PM
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True that the previous World champion did not do well by this motor. But...




It is an engine design problem in that it has not MUCH oil capacity.... Plus these motors tend to run hot and cut down viscosity quite a bit at times as well. 4 qts and 28/32 of oil does not give much room for tolerance of going "too long". 12k miles and 80% of those miles on open highway driving running on a good quality synthetic oil can be done. But as a rule most people don't have circumstances where they run their cars in that fashion. Like Molacule said... These motors are tough even under "good" circumstances.


Nissan Altima 3.5 Coupe
Cam2 SuperproMax 5w30 Carquest r84356 Oil filter
"Treat your family like your friends and treat your friends like your family."
Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4684175 03/04/18 02:32 PM
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Would be nice to hear some feedback on how this engine is fairing today.


Dale


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2008 Acura TL 3.2L PPPP 0W20 & FU (114K)
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Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #4732492 04/19/18 07:23 PM
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having just purchased a 28,xxx mile 2011 frontier with the 4.0 VQ engine this interests me, i generally use the 10-30 flavor in PA mobil I EP at this time. never heard of LC20 but good info if needed for sure. my 2001 jetta 200,000 mile 1.8T with only 4.5 qts + 10,000 changes ran well at trade time, i used Amsoil 10-30 when it was advertised as PAO prolly with Ester base oil as well. Ester oils are said to be a great cleaner but quite $$$$ to dump with short changes!!

Re: Cleaning sludgy nissan VQ [Re: MarcS] #5191304 08/19/19 01:11 PM
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Been a while, figured i'd post an update as I had a question. Engine is still running strong at 85k mi. I've been using LC20 with whatever big name synthetic 5w30 is discounted, fram ultra filters and usually citgo 93 with FP+ as it's reliably the cheapest in my area. OCI's at around 5000-6000mi with no noticeable consumption. Gets gas mileage in-line with or better than epa and gets driven hard with some regularity. The car has not needed anything but regular maintenance since this thread was last updated.

Mola,was wondering if the recommendations from this thread were still current. LCD has stopped selling its additives by the gallon, which means the price is effectively 50% higher than it was a few years ago. If there is a more current recommendation that is more cost effective (whether an additive or new oil technology), that would be great. If it's still the stuff to use, it's a cost that's only incurred every 3 years or so, so NBD.

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