Make your own one man brake bleeder for $2

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Find a wide bottle or jug with a screw on cap. I used a 30 ounce Orville Redenbacher bottle. Get some clear line that will fit the nipples on the vehicles your working on. I bought 30" of clear, 1/4" I.D. line at a local hardware store.
Drill a hole in the cap so the line is snug and drill a tiny breather hole in the cap. The line in the bottle should be as low as possible.


 
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Been doing that forever ! It works. But then you know the goodies because you are a pro!!!
 
I remember it from my Bentley manual for the VW type 1 1300 ,aka '66 Bug. Went 30 odd yrs before trying it. Works as well or better as any other method. I throw it out as a counter to the more expensive gadgets guys use.
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Has worked for me for 40 years.

In fact the only time I had frustration bleeding brakes was with a vacuum device. It was leaking air at the nipple threads.
 
Originally Posted By: vintageant
How is this a one man bleeder? How are you pumping, then depressing the brake pedal and closing the nipple at the same time?


Its a drip bleeder
 
I made one of these over the Summer.
Just to catch the Brake Fluid when I use my Reservoir Pressurizer Tool.

Maybe this Summer I'll just do a Gravity Flush with the Catch Bottle/Hose.
Gravity Flush should be good as long as your not trying to get out a 'stubborn' bubble.

I used a short piece of Tygon Tubing on the end.
It will slip over the Bleeder Valve easier.
 
Originally Posted By: vintageant
How is this a one man bleeder? How are you pumping, then depressing the brake pedal and closing the nipple at the same time?


I was going to ask this too. Wont drip bleeding take hours for one caliper? By the time the fluid has cycled through, the reservoir cap will have been off for long enough to allow the new fluid to absorb plenty of moisture from the atmosphere.
 
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
Why do you drill holes in the cap?

Does the 1 man push the pedal or open the bleeder?


The one man puts the tube on the bleeder, then opens it. Then goes in and pumps the pedal, then goes back and closes the bleeder screw.

This is how I do it, but I use a store bought version.

So long as the end of the hose in the bottle stays submerged, no air enters the system and it is bled. More fluid exits the system under pressure than returns when the pedal is released.

I find it amazing that people don't know about this.

Sure, gravity is free, but I can do all four wheels on the amount of time it takes you to gravity bleed just one wheel.
 
I stick a short bolt in the bottle end of the hose then cut a slit in the hose just above it.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I stick a short bolt in the bottle end of the hose then cut a slit in the hose just above it.


I have done this also.

But a straight tube works as well.

It boggles my ming that people buy vacuum pumps, (so called) speed bleeders and other gadgets for such a fool proof, simple operation.

As PT Barnum said......
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I stick a short bolt in the bottle end of the hose then cut a slit in the hose just above it.


Now what does THAT do?
 
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I stick a short bolt in the bottle end of the hose then cut a slit in the hose just above it.


Now what does THAT do?
It helps to keep air out of the line on the return stroke. The slit opens when fluid is being pushed out and then closes back up when the pressure stops.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I stick a short bolt in the bottle end of the hose then cut a slit in the hose just above it.


Now what does THAT do?
It helps to keep air out of the line on the return stroke. The slit opens when fluid is being pushed out and then closes back up when the pressure stops.


If the end of the hose is submerged in brake fluid what difference does it make?

Could all of these methods pull air in from around the threads of the bleed screw when the pedal is let up?
 
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