What type anti-seize for spark plugs?

Never used torque wrench, always torqued it till it stops then about 1/4 of turn. Never had a problem.Am I doing it wrong?They should brake inside? Maybe using expensive spark plugs( Bosch, NGK laser platinum or iridium)do payoff not just by longer life.Never dealt with cheapo plugs.
Last time I used silver anti seize.
 
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Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Never used torque wrench, always torqued it till it stops then about 1/4 of turn. Never had a problem.Am I doing it wrong?They should brake inside? Maybe using expensive spark plugs( Bosch, NGK laser platinum or iridium)do payoff not just by longer life.Never dealt with cheapo plugs.
Last time I used silver anti seize.


^Ditto, I give it 1/4 turn, but made sure the washers weren't caught in the threads. Once it's definitely in 'crushing washer' mode, I give it 1/4-1/2 turn(at most) on the Civic. I have used Permatex silver anti-seize that claims to be best with aluminum heads, etc.

Don't use a torque wrench, but that's because the scope of work I have experience with doesn't 'absolutely' require it, so I don't even own one.

If there is a better method, I'm willing to take advice.
 
OVERKILL, how much is that tool for the 3 valve head Fords? The Ford issue is one example of plugs frozen in the cyl. heads. The problem is a steel spark plug in an aluminum cyl. head is a disaster waiting to happen due to the reaction between two dissimilar metals. Especially when you go for the 100 k plug change intervals. I say even the iron heads and the steel plugs shouldn't be extended to 100k intervals without anti-seize.
 
Yes, this is a very old thread, but the topic came up recently when a fellow Honda Fit owner changed a spark plug. He used silver anti seize and I challenged him on if it was a good idea. I was taught by an A&P mechanic to use only Champion anti seize, even on experimental aircraft using automotive engines.

After reading this thread and the Pelican Parts Porsche 911 one referenced above, Ive come to the following conclusions.

Plated shell (silver color) spark plugs, such as the Denso he was installing, don't need anything.

Black shell plugs, such as AC and Autolite, can benefit from very carefully applied Champion anti seize compound. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Never used torque wrench, always torqued it till it stops then about 1/4 of turn. Never had a problem.Am I doing it wrong?They should brake inside? Maybe using expensive spark plugs( Bosch, NGK laser platinum or iridium)do payoff not just by longer life.Never dealt with cheapo plugs.
Last time I used silver anti seize.


Every spark plug box I have seen lately has tightening instructions on the box. Usually it has been a torque angle, not a value. I would follow what the manufacturer recommends.

The NGK ones I buy also say to add nothing to the threads.
 
Spark Plug manufacturers caused this issue, by not carefully explaining there are two types of spark plugs..... A Black oxide finish commonly used in cast iron heads (where anti-seize can be applied to the threads) and Anti-seize finished plugs (nickel plating) where anti-seize should not be applied to the threads. Incorrect application of anti-seize to a spark plug can cause over torque and damage, according to NGK.

Autolite makes the same statement as NGK concerning the use of anti-sieze compound on spark plugs treated with nickel (anti-seize) plating, but then recommends consulting the vehicle manufacturers guide related to the use of anti-seize compound during servicing. Ford factory service bulletin recommends using anti-seize on the shield of plugs installed in their 3 valve engines, where the shield is prone to lodging in the cylinder head, but does not mention the threads... Ford (4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L 3 Valve engines) .. See TSB 08-7-6 (Note: Ford no longer uses this design)

Bosch recommends anti-seize on specific applications and specific plugs (industrial) but states its not necessary on their iridum plugs which are manufactured with and anti-seize plating.

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugshttps://www.boschautoparts.com/documents/101512/0/0/1afcc55b-5904-4064-8275-8d0d50d9ef2a
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZ-KOL4gZzw
https://images.carid.com/bosch/ignition-systems/pdf/oe-fine-wire-iridium-spark-plug-features.pdf
https://www.autolite.com/resources/tech-tips
https://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_tsb_08-7-6.pdf
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Heads haven't been made from cast iron in decades.


The thread was started almost a decade ago.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by PimTac
Heads haven't been made from cast iron in decades.


The thread was started almost a decade ago.




I see that now.
 
I use whatever is available it usually doesn’t matter for spark plugs. All they sell in my area is Anti Seize that is silver doesn’t say anything other than Anti-Seize Lubricant on the bottle. Copper isn’t available at any of the parts stores near me or any home improvement stores either it’s weird. I usually don’t use it on spark plugs though I was always taught in school to use it on them.
 
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Never used anti-seize on sparkplugs ever and never had any issues.

The aluminum heads that are currently on the supercharged mustang are $1500 heads so you gotta be careful 😂

Just me 😎
 
I believe the heads of my 2005 4.0l SOHC V6 (Ford Ranger) are cast iron.
Someone tell me if they're not, please.
The new black Motorcraft Double Platinums will get a light nickel anti-seize treatment.
There's no gasket, just the "tapered seat". That gets the 1/16 turn past contact.
Original plugs will be in 16 years. Heaven help me!
 
aluminum heads have been used on everything here since the 80s. So is anti seize on spark plug and glow plug threads. The biggest issue with the plugs in the life of the vehicle is getting the oem plugs out without damage. If you don't put antiseize, soot and gas makes it's way up the threads anyway and rust makes it's way down sometimes.
 
I use just a slight brush of antiseize. I spray a little WD40 down each plug hole to clean the threads.
If I can't spin the plugs in easily by hand, something is wrong.
I back off the torque a little. If a torque value is 12 pound feet, I set the wrench to 9 or 10.
The difference cannot be that much and should be better than by hand only.

Flame suit on...
 
Jetronic said:
theres washers to crush on sparkplugs, crush them then stop torqueing.
Click to expand...

This is what I do with spark plugs with washers. They usually state on the box how far to turn past initial contact. I do that.

No anti seize and never a problem. I’ve only changed spark plugs on half a dozen vehicles, so I admittedly don’t have a ton of experience.
 
gathermewool said:
This is what I do with spark plugs with washers. They usually state on the box how far to turn past initial contact. I do that.

No anti seize and never a problem. I’ve only changed spark plugs on half a dozen vehicles, so I admittedly don’t have a ton of experience.
Click to expand...
In my experience, most of the time there will not be a problem, or much of a problem.
But wait until that 1st real problem occurs, especially with an aluminum head and yo gotta really twist the wrench hard and you don't have all your tools and ...
You will curse the "last guy". That's my experiene.
 
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