Acceptable coolant for newer Dodge/Chrysler produc

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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum

Take this with a grain (OK, a whole BRICK) of salt... but if true then there are a couple of interesting "reveals" in here. One, that Mopar OAT is very close to DexCool if not identical, and two (the big one) that DexCool no longer uses 2EHA. That would certainly explain why all the DexCool problems vanished.

I'm just not sure its credible, though, since its one of those "this is what a Zerex guy told me" type posts:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/mopar-oat-dexcool-believe-it-or-not-238028.html


Yeah, that is a big nut to swallow on internet hearsay. I have followed this whole FCA OAT coolant thing for awhile now with having owned a 2014 Jeep Wrangler and now a 2015 RAM and the wife's 2013 FIAT calling this OAT coolant out.

The problem is finding coolant branding/manufacturing documentation stating "top off" mix compatibility with the factory stuff and not a full flush and fill replacement suitable substitute that some coolant makers claim which is a different thing all together.

I have read and seen the horror stories of getting this wrong on mixing other types with the factory OAT stuff and it just has never turned out good.
 
I'm going to run the coolant for 10yrs then dump the van ....
cool.gif


I'll give it to uc50ic4more and watch him do the coolant change
(who am I kidding - I'll end up doing it for him after all anyway
56.gif
)
 
Yep, due respect but I'm not buying the internet hearsay that DexCool (and the universal dexclones) no longer contain 2eha. Beyond the Zerex data sheet posted above for Zerex Dexcool confirming it's use, Prestone Dex data sheet posted here before also shows similar info. As regards the newer Prestone All Makes Models, I emailed them regarding 2eha use, and though a lower concentration it too still uses 2eha as an inhibitor.

So to me the newer no 2eha FCA/Mopar AF LL OAT as documented in the sae paper is different than Dexcool. As noted, only other AF I might use in it's stead after warranty would be Peak Global Lifetime LL OAT, also with no 2eha.
 
Originally Posted By: Sayjac


So to me the newer no 2eha FCA/Mopar AF LL OAT as documented in the sae paper is different than Dexcool. As noted, only other AF I might use in it's stead after warranty would be Peak Global Lifetime LL OAT, also with no 2eha.


Agreed, the MSDS doesn't lie.

Given the long-life nature of that coolant, I really have no problem with a trip to the dealer after 10 years, nor with paying a rather higher price. Its still inexpensive in the long run, no need to go hunting around for an aftermarket coolant that's "close." That said, I would actually be very surprised if the exact same chemistry isn't out there under some other name either.
 
Just a question: By the way, are you one of those Eco-Nuts that promote 10 year coolant fluid, that ends up polluting much more than regular maintenance? (when pump seals fail, or radiators become fouled and corroded, etc. producing MORE pollution than before)...

I've used the so called 5-year Mopar coolant, together with DISTILLED water AND complete back flushing.

Even with those all cares, my coolant pump leaked at the seal after 4 years, new car. Then,after 6 years, my excellent radiator technician showed me that my radiator needed mechanical cleaning, which he carefully did. In HIS EXPERT OPINION, the so called 5-year formulas only endure a full 3 to 3.5 years, WHEN used on a completely NEW FROM FACTORY ENGINE. After the first coolant replacement, his advice recommends to SHORTEN the period, to 2/3 of the "promised" life.

After replacing the radiator in my now 15 years old R/T (which failed by springing a leak in the hot side plastic tank, just in front of the coolant hose entering the radiator (BTW, my radiator especialist PREDICTED my radiator failure about a month before, showing me EXACTLY where it would fail, as he has seen plenty of these radiators fail in the exact same place).

Then I did a DESCALING to the engine block (by connecting the hose to the ratiador to the hose from the radiator with a piece of pvc pipe and clamps), avoiding placing dirt into the new radiator. Used the old PRESTONE heavy duty rad flush that comes in a cardboard tube in granulated form (it is Citric acid) and the lower third is the Neutralizer -Sodium carbonate-)... quite a bit of scale was released by the block of my pristine, well cared for, distilled water flushed and MOPAR "5-year" coolant that was first replaced at 4 years, then at two to three year intervals.
Last year I removed the coolant pump (it was working, but I got the much better closed impeller pump that was designed for the PT-Cruiser GT-Turbo and the Neon STR-4 also Turbo), to help my car maintain a higher speed when climbing some mountains near my city. My surprise was to find the pump (the second one, bought at the MOPAR dealer) with some corrosion and pitting at the stamped steel impeller.

So, in MY experience, a so called "5-year" coolant is definitely NOT going to endure that much, much less a "TEN-year" formula that is the stoopid "Eco-nut" environmentalist's pipe dream.

Respectfully, Amclaussen.
 
Mexico City, huh?

Originally Posted By: Amclaussen
Just a question: By the way, are you one of those Eco-Nuts that promote 10 year coolant fluid, that ends up polluting much more than regular maintenance? (when pump seals fail, or radiators become fouled and corroded, etc. producing MORE pollution than before)...

I've used the so called 5-year Mopar coolant, together with DISTILLED water AND complete back flushing.

Even with those all cares, my coolant pump leaked at the seal after 4 years, new car. Then,after 6 years, my excellent radiator technician showed me that my radiator needed mechanical cleaning, which he carefully did. In HIS EXPERT OPINION, the so called 5-year formulas only endure a full 3 to 3.5 years, WHEN used on a completely NEW FROM FACTORY ENGINE. After the first coolant replacement, his advice recommends to SHORTEN the period, to 2/3 of the "promised" life.

After replacing the radiator in my now 15 years old R/T (which failed by springing a leak in the hot side plastic tank, just in front of the coolant hose entering the radiator (BTW, my radiator especialist PREDICTED my radiator failure about a month before, showing me EXACTLY where it would fail, as he has seen plenty of these radiators fail in the exact same place).

Then I did a DESCALING to the engine block (by connecting the hose to the ratiador to the hose from the radiator with a piece of pvc pipe and clamps), avoiding placing dirt into the new radiator. Used the old PRESTONE heavy duty rad flush that comes in a cardboard tube in granulated form (it is Citric acid) and the lower third is the Neutralizer -Sodium carbonate-)... quite a bit of scale was released by the block of my pristine, well cared for, distilled water flushed and MOPAR "5-year" coolant that was first replaced at 4 years, then at two to three year intervals.
Last year I removed the coolant pump (it was working, but I got the much better closed impeller pump that was designed for the PT-Cruiser GT-Turbo and the Neon STR-4 also Turbo), to help my car maintain a higher speed when climbing some mountains near my city. My surprise was to find the pump (the second one, bought at the MOPAR dealer) with some corrosion and pitting at the stamped steel impeller.

So, in MY experience, a so called "5-year" coolant is definitely NOT going to endure that much, much less a "TEN-year" formula that is the stoopid "Eco-nut" environmentalist's pipe dream.

Respectfully, Amclaussen.
 
Good luck with your "FULL TEN YEAR COOLANT LIFE"...
(if 5-year is showing some corrosión and deposits, I would NEVER believe a full 10 year exitst, that will endure more than 5 years.
 
YES sir! where we had the Turbocharged Dodges used to full advantage because of our very high altitude of 7350 Ft above sea level, and in a hot day, more than 10,500 Ft Density-Altitude, when a Normally aspirated Small block loses 26% of their advertised power! (and a small turbocharged Four like ours leave many Mustangs, Camaros and the like in the dust!).
 
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I've busted open plenty of 10 year old cooling systems running factory coolants that were absolutely flawless on the inside.

I recently did my second Ram's system, which after 9 years, and over 1/4 million miles of its factory coolant was absolutely flawless.
 
Originally Posted By: Amclaussen
Good luck with your "FULL TEN YEAR COOLANT LIFE"...
(if 5-year is showing some corrosión and deposits, I would NEVER believe a full 10 year exitst, that will endure more than 5 years.

That sounds like more of a reflection on water quality in Mexico than coolant - there's a reason why the Europeans(and Ford/GM) now prefer a phosphate-free coolant and why the Japanese now sell their newer coolants as 50/50 premix.
 
I have had the Peak Final Charge Global in my 13 Ram with the 6.7 for the past year without any issues.
 
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Amclaussen
Good luck with your "FULL TEN YEAR COOLANT LIFE"...
(if 5-year is showing some corrosión and deposits, I would NEVER believe a full 10 year exitst, that will endure more than 5 years.

That sounds like more of a reflection on water quality in Mexico than coolant - there's a reason why the Europeans(and Ford/GM) now prefer a phosphate-free coolant and why the Japanese now sell their newer coolants as 50/50 premix.


Now? My '98 M3 spec'd G-05... nothing new there.
 
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