Engine Oi Tips for all buddies out here

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Uh, no, not exactly
Quote:
Advantages of using a thicker oil - Provide more protection for your engine parts


Thicker=/=more better

If it did, we'd all be using 40w70
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Uh, no, not exactly
Quote:
Advantages of using a thicker oil - Provide more protection for your engine parts


Thicker=/=more better

If it did, we'd all be using 40w70


Think you mean 40-70
shocked.gif
I can't imagine anything thicker than 20w50 for normal use, never-mind 20w60, 25w60 and so on.

Use what the manual, or subsequent service bulletins state. If you get consumption, try another brand/formulation or investigate causes of consumption in that engine series. Otherwise consider stepping up just *a* grade.
 
Originally Posted By: B320i
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Uh, no, not exactly
Quote:
Advantages of using a thicker oil - Provide more protection for your engine parts


Thicker=/=more better

If it did, we'd all be using 40w70


Think you mean 40-70
shocked.gif
I can't imagine anything thicker than 20w50 for normal use, never-mind 20w60, 25w60 and so on.

Use what the manual, or subsequent service bulletins state. If you get consumption, try another brand/formulation or investigate causes of consumption in that engine series. Otherwise consider stepping up just *a* grade.


I was thinking of running 20w60 but instead opted for changing the 35+ year old valve seals in my engine that were rock hard like plastic rather than rubber, burns a lot less oil now for sure.
 
The crankshaft whipping through the oil in the pan was the end of my skimming.
 
Is it me, or does it seem like this post was just an attempt by the OP to plug an article he wrote? He's from Singapore.. the URL he posted is a .sg (Singapore) URL.. and it's his first post.
 
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Is it me, or does it seem like this post was just an attempt by the OP to plug an article he wrote? He's from Singapore.. the URL he posted is a .sg (Singapore) URL.. and it's his first post.

Does seem suspicious
 
Originally Posted By: Popsy
Lol.
A different "vision" than oil university 101


You say that like its a bad thing?
 
Not at all a fan of thick oil necessarily, but if thinner was always better we'd be running kerosene in our motors. In fact I've run some very old, and excellent, surface grinders that used kerosene as lube. I'm pretty sure they had babbitt spindle bearings running 3600 rpm.

I only remember seeing one link in a post here that showed how long it took for the oil pump to supply oil to the main bearings. I can't remember what the two different oils were or what the temperature was. But it amounted to the "thin" oil reaching the bearings in 5 seconds and the "thick" oil reaching the bearings in 6 second.

Of course the first is preferable, but what about those first 5 seconds. Wouldn't film strength come into play here or something like film strength? And there are other non hydrodynamic "rubbing" bearings in a motor which might depend less on flow and more on film strength. If there is such a thing.

I have dipped pieces of metal in 5w-30 and 10w-30 oil and let them sit overnight. The film left from the 10w-30 "felt" slipperier to me. All nonscientific and pure speculation on my part.

Just one man's thoughts.
 
The oil film depth has to be equal to the task at hand. A turbo-charged truck engine living at 4,500 RPM (gas) under load and pulling a grade (say a contractor truck with a trailer) may very well need a 40 grade oil because of heat.

Average motor designed between WW-II and 2009 needs 30 grade for most circumstances. Only with CNC/laser checked and robotic manufacturing processes have the clearances come down to the point where a 20 Grade is usable, or preferable in non-winter temps.

Back specs are iffy. If the Grade was correct at 30 when it was built, the engineers will likely still prefer a 30. The Gov't analysts and the bean counters and the corp lawyers who have to deal with Gov't may want something else and may out-vote the engineers ...

Singapore is generally a lot warmer on average than much of the USA. Yes, we get similar temps in the summer, but they stay that way year round. So many of their engines are quite happy on 30-40-50 Grade oils. As stated, they don't even look at the W rating. It's meaningless to them.

And, it's very likely that oil is either costly, or from dubious sources. So they may be making up for inferior chemistry by adding base film strength.

And to answer the question above about 5 seconds of cold start - it never was "flow" that protected your engine. It was always the existing film strength/viscosity. Many parts of a motor never see pumped oil in 200,000 miles and they run fine. Piston skirts, cam chains, cylinder walls, distributor gears, etc. They all live on splash or slung oil and always have. Even parts of the vale train may not be lubed by pumped oil.

If you've ever been to a County Fair where they have a lotto on how long an engine will run w/o oil, most folks loose their money big time. That residual oil film is very durable and lasts into the 20~30 minute range unless they drain the coolant too. In which case the engine fails from heat seizure, not lubrication failure ...

This whole concept of flow equals protection is bogus in the extreme. Even journal bearings that get pumped oil, only take what the need to make a full film. The rest is side leakage. That may be useful in and of itself as the cylinders and the cam are lubricated by slung oil off the crankshaft. But enough is sufficient. And they are always wet on start-up with residual oil from yesterday.

The question to ask for start-up concerns is which oil maintains best film over night ... And teh answer is often not a full synthetic ...
 
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Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Is it me, or does it seem like this post was just an attempt by the OP to plug an article he wrote? He's from Singapore.. the URL he posted is a .sg (Singapore) URL.. and it's his first post.


Clearly what it is, the OP is looking for a "back link" from this site as it has a lot of authority SEO wise when it comes to motor oil. SEO 101, this thread should be deleted and this OP banned.
 
Originally Posted By: jdavis
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Is it me, or does it seem like this post was just an attempt by the OP to plug an article he wrote? He's from Singapore.. the URL he posted is a .sg (Singapore) URL.. and it's his first post.


Clearly what it is, the OP is looking for a "back link" from this site as it has a lot of authority SEO wise when it comes to motor oil. SEO 101, this thread should be deleted and this OP banned.


This. Its a shameless plug.....and it's incorrect in parts.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno


If you've ever been to a County Fair where they have a lotto on how long an engine will run w/o oil,



Jeez! That's nasty. Being a city boy, I'm too squeamish for that.

I'll wait next door in the bull baiting and cock fighting tent until y'all have finished. Maybe check out the Duelling Banjo Brothers.
 
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Originally Posted By: NibbanaBanana

I only remember seeing one link in a post here that showed how long it took for the oil pump to supply oil to the main bearings. I can't remember what the two different oils were or what the temperature was. But it amounted to the "thin" oil reaching the bearings in 5 seconds and the "thick" oil reaching the bearings in 6 second.


This one ?

It's got the time for various grades to make it all the way through to the rockers at various temperatures...clearly, above freezing, SAE30 is fine.

Oil%20gallery%20fill%20and%20rocker%20time.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: NibbanaBanana

I only remember seeing one link in a post here that showed how long it took for the oil pump to supply oil to the main bearings. I can't remember what the two different oils were or what the temperature was. But it amounted to the "thin" oil reaching the bearings in 5 seconds and the "thick" oil reaching the bearings in 6 second.


This one ?

It's got the time for various grades to make it all the way through to the rockers at various temperatures...clearly, above freezing, SAE30 is fine.

Oil%20gallery%20fill%20and%20rocker%20time.jpg



IIRC that was evaluated subjectively by the change in sound of the engine.

All the argy-bargy there's been on this fairly basic, fundamental issue, and that seems to be the most definitive data we've got access to.

Weird.
 
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Another consideration with thicker oil is how quickly it drains back to the pan while engine is warming up. Reduced flow of thicker oil can cause temporary oil starvation.
 
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