Tuff Torq K46 oil question

[funflyer]

Originally Posted By: Oli20
I wish I could change mine, alas Cub Cadet says its sealed from the factory and cannot be changed. Haven't looked real close but she does whine something good.



My Cub only has 15 hours on it and when it's cold it whines also. Picked up some 5w50 Mobil on Napa's sale this month so at the end of the season I will remove the transaxle and change it and add some drain plugs to the cover.

 

[Balrog006]

Originally Posted By: funflyer
Originally Posted By: Oli20
I wish I could change mine, alas Cub Cadet says its sealed from the factory and cannot be changed. Haven't looked real close but she does whine something good.



My Cub only has 15 hours on it and when it's cold it whines also. Picked up some 5w50 Mobil on Napa's sale this month so at the end of the season I will remove the transaxle and change it and add some drain plugs to the cover.


Drain plugs aren't the issue with most K46's as they way they're situated it's nearly impossible to fill them without removing them from the machine. Once removed I just prefer to invert to drain then refill, no need for drain plugs.

 

[funflyer]

Originally Posted By: Balrog006
Originally Posted By: funflyer
Originally Posted By: Oli20
I wish I could change mine, alas Cub Cadet says its sealed from the factory and cannot be changed. Haven't looked real close but she does whine something good.



My Cub only has 15 hours on it and when it's cold it whines also. Picked up some 5w50 Mobil on Napa's sale this month so at the end of the season I will remove the transaxle and change it and add some drain plugs to the cover.


Drain plugs aren't the issue with most K46's as they way they're situated it's nearly impossible to fill them without removing them from the machine. Once removed I just prefer to invert to drain then refill, no need for drain plugs.



I'm working on that also. Going to see if it's feasible to find a point on the upper case to tap and add a fitting/hose and run it to the chassis for easy filling.

 

[Old Shadetree]

Although our JD x350 is impossible to access from top because of gas tank....I may still add drain plugs because that way any debris will go to bottom and drain out while Hot . Inverting transmission seems to allow debris to stay in tranny. Just saying...

 

[nbpt100]

Although our JD x350 is impossible to access from top because of gas tank....I may still add drain plugs because that way any debris will go to bottom and drain out while Hot . Inverting transmission seems to allow debris to stay in tranny. Just saying...

I know this is an older thread but the info is relevant as we are moving into the mowing season. he K46 is one of the most popular transaxles used over the past 10-15 years on riding lawn tractors. People are getting their equipment ready. I have considered adding the two drain plugs. However as someone said, you still have to remove the trans-axle to remove the fan and pulley. Then the fill cap, remove/clean the top magnet and refill. You just can not do it in the machine. There is no practical way around it with out cutting up the JD tractor. I see some benefits of draining while hot and you can do it over night while you are sleeping. I get all that. But it does not seem like a dramatic improvement. The oil recommended is the Tuff Torq 187Q0899000 . The factory fill was either 10w-30, Synthetic 5w-50 or JD Hi-Gard Hi viscosity. Tuff Torq will not tell you what their oil is. The say "Keep in mind the factory filled oil
mentioned above with a (*) has a different makeup than oil of a similar weight out in the marketplace."
Implying that the factory fill is something special as is their own oil. The feed back from others using synthic SomethingW-50 sounds like good feed back. I would run 5w-50 if you will use it in winter conditions. It does not have hypo gears but it does have a differential with bevel gears. From what I have read, the material is not a high quality steel. A lot of the metal particles are generated from these gears.

One thing I clearly believe from reading and studying a ton on this topic is that regular oil changes are important to keep this transaxle going. Many people have said they are under designed for the applications they are placed in. When the OEM says they are not serviceable that is false. It is not convenient, but it is doable for anyone with average mechanical abilities. The dealers do not want to do it. They say it is not serviceable. They want to sell you a new transaxle or a new machine sooner than later.

Also, I will say there are some people installing other transaxles that are drop in replacement (or close) that are much more robust. The K58 for example. I am not 100% clear on how or what may need to be modified but they are very close and people have done it.
The Tuff Torq website has a list of the fuiids and oils that they recommend and are factory fill.
I hope this helps

 

[jeepman3071]

I'd caution anyone who is going to drill into their hydro to add drain/fill plugs. I've serviced a few where the customers did this and there seems to always be metal shavings inside the transmission that drain out during the next change. If it were mine I'd rather go for a longer time between changes because of the pain in the neck of taking the transmission out and flipping it over compared to introducing metal shavings into the trans case. You will never get them all out.

 

[nbpt100]

I'd caution anyone who is going to drill into their hydro to add drain/fill plugs. I've serviced a few where the customers did this and there seems to always be metal shavings inside the transmission that drain out during the next change. If it were mine I'd rather go for a longer time between changes because of the pain in the neck of taking the transmission out and flipping it over compared to introducing metal shavings into the trans case. You will never get them all out.

You drill and tap it when the trans axle is apart so you can clean out the chips. Why would you even think to do it any other way?

 

[jeepman3071]

You drill and tap it when the trans axle is apart so you can clean out the chips. Why would you even think to do it any other way?

I've seen some that were clearly done that way.

 

[nbpt100]

I've seen some that were clearly done that way.

I do not doubt that. Since you have to remove the unit from the machine to open the transaxle to change the filter and clean the magnets. Adding them at the break in oil change at 50 hours - 100 hours seems ideal. If removing the unit is too much for an owner they should pay someone who is qualified and able to do it. It could double the life of the unit. Seems like a good investment.

 

[bchannell]

I'm not sure why you would want to run hypoid gear oil, as there are no hypoid gears in a hydro. Many, many hydro's use motor oil and if that's what is specified, then that's the thing to use. I checked the recommended oils for a hyrdo-gear I had and they highly recommended Mobil 1 15w50, I sold that mower and I can guarantee you that the church that I sold it to has never changed it, and it's still running strong some 5 or so years later. Heck I doubt they're ever changed the motor oil, and they have a huge property!
Stick with what the hydro was designed to run on, you can monkey with the viscosity and no harm no foul, but don't switch oil types or you'll be sorry down the road.

 

[JakeBlade]

Taryl Fixes All - Add Drain Plugs To Your Transmission (Tuff Torq)

 

[RangerRiley]

There's your dinner