U joint cap spinning

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So, I have a u-joint with a cap that I can see is spinning. The outside edge is shiny where the rest are rusty. Is thus a definite cause for replacement?
I marked the position with a paint pen and drove it around for about 45 minutes. It didnt move, so it's not doing it much.
 
The drive shaft yoke may have issues. I would drop the shaft and look further. The joint is cheap and would take an hour to change, so I would just replace the joint. At that time you will know when you are pressing in the new cap if the drive shaft is messed up.If it is only the cap which is bad, you will mess up the yoke if you continue to drive it.
 
If the U Joint is spinning in the yoke, that's not good. Could be the cap is seized, but you'd have a pretty bad vibration first. Is there any angle on this joint in operation?

It shouldn't be spinning in a complete circle, just through the operation angles - if it's spinning.

However, if it is spinning, I would replace it before it ruins the yoke. My guess is someone played with the clip before to try to repack it and had it going in circles. I have done this before with driveshaft u joints to reuse them.
 
Its a crown vic, so minimal driveshaft angle. Thats why its surprising and worrying to me that it has shifted that much. Its a 90k mile car so I don't think anyone has messed with it before.
 
Yeah, there is. I can see part of the side of the cap where the yoke does not shroud it. Shiny metal. The others are covered in oil. Ill take a pic later today.
 
Lubed for life? Life is done. Most DS work at minor angle, important both yoke are || regardless of ds angle. Try a new Joint, if loose, IDK if machinist could bush or hog out to next oversize.
 
It looks like you'll have to take it apart to see what's going on. I would replace the joints with the lubed for life ones as they are better. Many people make the mistake of assuming that just because the joint has a zerk and can be greased it's better. The lubed for life joints will last longer plus have no maintenance.
 
Yeah, I ordered a Spicer 5-1350X sealed joint. Ill take it apart and see what is going on. Worst case, I believe I have a yoke for a 1350 in my Crown Vic parts pile, but I have to double check that. Then it will have to be removed from a driveshaft.
 
This kind of thing happens often with heavy commercial trucks, even those that see regular greasing frequently. Just change the U-joint. No need to overthink the issue.
 
Originally Posted By: Silverado12
It looks like you'll have to take it apart to see what's going on. I would replace the joints with the lubed for life ones as they are better. Many people make the mistake of assuming that just because the joint has a zerk and can be greased it's better. The lubed for life joints will last longer plus have no maintenance.


Usually one or two of the passages plug up and the greaseable joint ends up drying up one or two caps.
 
Put the new joint in but coat the caps and bore with this first, it wont move and disassembly later is possible. Give it 12 hr min or better 24 hrs before returning to service.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-66010-Retaining-Compound-Silver/dp/B000O03DK0

Quote:
LOCTITE® 660 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting
parts, particularly where bond gaps can approach 0.50 mm
(0.02 in.). The product cures when confined in the absence of
air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening
and leakage from shock and vibration. This product possesses
excellent gap cure characteristics. Typical applications include
restoring correct fits on worn shafts, spun beraings, and
damaged keyways.
 
Thoughts on this one? This is the front driveshaft (front diff end) on a 2006 Ford Expedition with the 3v 5.4. It has 199k miles and is the factory U-joint. No abnormal noises, vibrations, or issues. I just noticed it while I was under it visually inspecting it.

6CF43E74-F23E-467D-89C8-564609C3C758.jpeg
 
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