MOOG Problem solver links: What Grease?

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I'm going to be changing the stabilizer links on my car and I picked up some MOOG ones that have the zerk fittings. I have no idea what type of grease I should be using to fill these and what brand to be looking out for? I know I've seen at the top of my head around at local stores Shell, Valvoline Syn, M1, Mystik, Lucas, and Amsoil greases atleast
 
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I had been running Mobil red synthetic #2 for the last few years. Recently switched to some sort of purple Amsoil #2. Why? I got half a case for free and need to use it.

As long as you use a chassis rated grease and make sure the part sees grease once in a while you are fine.
 
It seems like there aren't too many applications that can't be addressed by NLGI #2 Lithium complex grease. Moly is optional.
 
I use the store brand EP moly grease , real thick and black so it doesnt run off with heat or look all nasty red when the old stuff comes out on all my moog chassis joints no problems to report
 
Valvoline synpower seems to be a top notch grease with good specs, wide temp range and even a mild dose of molybdenum.

But endlinks aren't a terribly demanding application and any half decent EP lithium complex should be more than fine. Remember, regular greasing is more important than which grease- but not to the point where you blow the boots out!
 
I think you need to squeeze the boot with your fingers. If it feels deflated, give a pump or two- as said, a slight swell.


If they feel firm like a balloon, it is probably best not to pump any and just report back next oil change.
 
Originally Posted By: buck91
Valvoline synpower seems to be a top notch grease with good specs, wide temp range and even a mild dose of molybdenum.

But endlinks aren't a terribly demanding application and any half decent EP lithium complex should be more than fine. Remember, regular greasing is more important than which grease- but not to the point where you blow the boots out!


Again, very simple. I was a 17 year old who bought my first car by cutting grass, shoveling snow, raking leaves and collecting soda bottles from the side of the road...A mechanical imbecile; but it was MY CAR. I could read and follow instructions, I've always done my own grease jobs and never "blown out" a boot. Any grease is better than no grease, and not too much. I've gotten quite adept at holding one hand on the boot to feel it swell slightly while wedging the grease gun against my shoulder and pumping grease with the other hand. OR aiming a bright light at the boot and watching it carefully for visual indication of swelling while pumping grease.

Can't tell you how many times I've been in a waiting room at a service center having tires mounted (or some other service I don't have tools for such as an alignment) and they have large windows to view the service area; I can watch the "technicians" exploding boots while they "maintain" someones vehicle (not mine).

FWIW, I have used MOOG problem solver parts with the zerks and I use Amsoil NLGI #2.

Edit: I also trust Trav's advice.
 
I've been running Moog stabilizer bar endlinks on my wife's '05 Ford Escape, and the rubber boots don't do a good job of sealing. This is my 2nd set of warranty replacements and the design has changed visibly, but they still squirt grease at the interface with the rod surface.

The original Moogs lasted around 20K miles before the clunking noise returned over speed bumps, passenger side upper joint was worn out. This was on RedLine grease applied every 5K mile oil change. I pulled both links and returned them under warranty. The first warranty replacements did the same thing. The next set is what's on there now, thicker metal and larger ball joints on this design. They've been in service for over 30K miles with no issue. I switched to Lucas green heavy grease at some point, visibly thicker than RedLine but I can't say it made any difference. The boots still don't seal well and squirt grease at the first pump of the gun.

http://lucasoil.com/products/grease/lucas-x-tra-heavy-duty-grease
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I think you need to squeeze the boot with your fingers. If it feels deflated, give a pump or two- as said, a slight swell.


If they feel firm like a balloon, it is probably best not to pump any and just report back next oil change.


This is good to know.

I installed Moog tie rod and drag link ends on my Jeep last year and gave each a 3 pumps of grease. Per pump, my grease gun doesnt put out that much so I can't imagine I over-filled. Perhaps mine was just a dude.

Ironically its the one off the pitman arm too. I hate using a pickle fork.
 
It was probably a dud. Moog has had terrible problems with their boots and they are well aware of it but still do nothing to fix it.
The problem with the boots is they use a metal ring to hold the boot firmly to the joint, the machine that installs them often almost cuts right through, the first time you grease it blows out.

The problem is its not a split ring or spiral ring commonly found on imports but a solid wire ring embedded in the material, its about 1 mm to small so the machine stretches the metal to fit.
Never buy Moog that use a boot online, buy from a B&M store and look at the boots carefully, check to make sure they are seated properly and squarely and there are no nicks from the machine on the boot, refuse the part if there is and let them get another.
I found 2 out of 3 bad boots on an outer tie rod end.
 
Trav, the Moog Upper control arms I got for my F150 from Amazon did not have the boot installed, I put them on myself. No problems with them so far (just over 1000 miles on them). My lower ball joints has some smaller boots installed from the factory. They looked weird, but work just fine.

I also used some Green Grease on all the joints, seems to work fine so far, but as I said, not many miles on them.

I need to do my tie rods soon and will be using the Moog with Green Grease also.
 
funny, I just bought a tube of moly/lithium grease for just this application. Just the Sta-Lube stuff from CRC at HF. Looks like some decent stuff and probably overkill but it was cheap. You can use any grease really. It is more of a matter of checking them at each oil change and give the fitting a quick squirt here and there when needed.
 
Originally Posted By: blupupher
Trav, the Moog Upper control arms I got for my F150 from Amazon did not have the boot installed, I put them on myself. No problems with them so far (just over 1000 miles on them). My lower ball joints has some smaller boots installed from the factory. They looked weird, but work just fine.

I also used some Green Grease on all the joints, seems to work fine so far, but as I said, not many miles on them.

I need to do my tie rods soon and will be using the Moog with Green Grease also.


It's make and model dependent, some are the old style loose fitting and no problems, IMO they are the best for greasable joints although they require a bit more frequent greasing they are easy to flush them out without fear of exploding the boot.
The ones you have watch out for are the ones that are pressed on, they have a small lip on the bottom about 1/4", look for cuts and pinch marks right above this area, even its not through the boot is severely weakened and will be short lived.
There is nothing wrong with Moog problem solver joints, the steel quality is fine but its the boots on some models that let them down. They wont fix the problem even though they have known about the issue for at least 5 years and stated back then they are working on a new boot design but it never materialized.
 
I'm currently using Mobil 1 synthetic red. Never again. Because of the mess it makes in my garage. The grease separates in an idle grease gun, leaking thin red fluid all over the place. Assuming it doesn't separate in the suspension...
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: blupupher
Trav, the Moog Upper control arms I got for my F150 from Amazon did not have the boot installed, I put them on myself. No problems with them so far (just over 1000 miles on them). My lower ball joints has some smaller boots installed from the factory. They looked weird, but work just fine.

I also used some Green Grease on all the joints, seems to work fine so far, but as I said, not many miles on them.

I need to do my tie rods soon and will be using the Moog with Green Grease also.


It's make and model dependent, some are the old style loose fitting and no problems, IMO they are the best for greasable joints although they require a bit more frequent greasing they are easy to flush them out without fear of exploding the boot.
The ones you have watch out for are the ones that are pressed on, they have a small lip on the bottom about 1/4", look for cuts and pinch marks right above this area, even its not through the boot is severely weakened and will be short lived.
There is nothing wrong with Moog problem solver joints, the steel quality is fine but its the boots on some models that let them down. They wont fix the problem even though they have known about the issue for at least 5 years and stated back then they are working on a new boot design but it never materialized.



Installed Moog BJ's on a mid 90's XJ earlier this year. They had that small grease boot also. Nice because its hard to damage during installation, but it also didn't seat against the spindle in this application. That resulted in it EASILY becoming unseated from the ball joint if you added extra grease. At least with the old style the boot stayed in place and just leaked out grease.
 
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