What cleans better Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum?

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145,000 miles on a 2003 Camry 2.4L. Has a decent amount of varnish due to short tripping & bargain Firestone/Sears/Midas oil changes it whole life. Which oil will help clean piston ring/ring lands the best, Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum? Car will get driven less now with about 2000 miles a year
 
Originally Posted By: mehullica
145,000 miles on a 2003 Camry 2.4L. Has a decent amount of varnish due to short tripping & bargain Firestone/Sears/Midas oil changes it whole life. Which oil will help clean piston ring/ring lands the best, Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum? Car will get driven less now with about 2000 miles a year

They both will. Mobil 1 0W-40 has some Group IV and V in addition to Group III+ but PP is pure Group III+++ (GTL).

Or you can use German Castrol 0W-30 or 0W-40, same price as Mobil 1 but entirely Group IV and V.
 
This month, PP cleans better. Only $4.99/qt and an additional $2 rebate, makes it a great price
smile.gif
 
It won't matter what you use because putting only 2k miles a year on it isn't long enough for a 'cleaning oil' to do much of anything.
 
I would go with M1 0W-40 or GC 0W-30/0W-40 because of high mileage -- less oil consumption, plug fouling, catalyst and O_2-sensor poisoning, engine wear, etc. -- albeit a little less fuel economy as well.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Both will help clean your engine. However I would go with M1 5-30.


This seems good. +1
 
From my experience which means nothing...when I purchased my used '99 Chevy and ran 2 short OCI's with M1 5W30 I would see small chunks of sludge come out during the drain process. Proved to me it was cleaning, however I have no data to support my observations. PP made my Acura TL valve train run loud on my last oci, switched away from it this run and now back to normal.
 
I recently put together a comparison spreadsheet as I was wondering how various full synthetic oils compared with one another. The information is not perfect as it is coming from various sources, but it gave me something to go off of.

I suppose it is worth mentioning that it's not easy to say that X oil having 200 more of element Y will make it Z times better.

And these are strictly virgin analyses which means the numbers don't indicate performance.

oilcomp.JPG
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
It won't matter what you use because putting only 2k miles a year on it isn't long enough for a 'cleaning oil' to do much of anything.


Took the words out of my mouth. It won't clean just sitting there. And if I drove it that little i really wouldn't worry about it.
 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
I recently put together a comparison spreadsheet as I was wondering how various full synthetic oils compared with one another. The information is not perfect as it is coming from various sources, but it gave me something to go off of.

I suppose it is worth mentioning that it's not easy to say that X oil having 200 more of element Y will make it Z times better.

And these are strictly virgin analyses which means the numbers don't indicate performance.

Unfortunately it's impossible to infer anything regarding cleaning ability from VOAs. Base oil plays a crucial role as well as the specific type of detergents and dispersants in cleaning ability.

I like to see moly and phosphorous levels to get a feeling of or some added confidence for wear protection though. I also prefer calcium over magnesium for detergents because of some possible higher-wear concerns with magnesium due to its lower potency against certain acids.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
I recently put together a comparison spreadsheet as I was wondering how various full synthetic oils compared with one another. The information is not perfect as it is coming from various sources, but it gave me something to go off of.

I suppose it is worth mentioning that it's not easy to say that X oil having 200 more of element Y will make it Z times better.

And these are strictly virgin analyses which means the numbers don't indicate performance.

Unfortunately it's impossible to infer anything regarding cleaning ability from VOAs. Base oil plays a crucial role as well as the specific type of detergents and dispersants in cleaning ability.

I like to see moly and phosphorous levels to get a feeling of or some added confidence for wear protection though. I also prefer calcium over magnesium for detergents because of some possible higher-wear concerns with magnesium due to its lower potency against certain acids.


So what are your thoughts on WM SuperTech having pretty much no Moly but a lot more Boron? I imagine it is still a good oil, but the numbers are obviously different from the rest.
 
Pp mag free add pack should perform less than M1 in the cleaning department according to the statement that mg is abrasive. Boron is only in 0w20 PP if I remember correctly, another +1 to M1 (for me). I know there none I. 10w30 for sure. For cleanup my vote goes to M1, for deposit prevention PP. The fact of 2k per year, I'd just pyb the sucker for a couple of years( every sample I've seen at pqia is gtl anyway ). I would not dump unused synthetic every year.
That's the limit to my learnings on here.

edit:my experience :

I used 0w40 Castrol in the Beretta, and in 2-3k miles it cleaned out enough crud to clog my filter.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mehullica
145,000 miles on a 2003 Camry 2.4L. Has a decent amount of varnish due to short tripping & bargain Firestone/Sears/Midas oil changes it whole life. Which oil will help clean piston ring/ring lands the best, Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum? Car will get driven less now with about 2000 miles a year

Go get any 5W30 (is 5W30 recommended by factory?) that is synthetic, made by Mobil1, PP, Castrol, Valvoline.
Go to Wal Mart, that is where you will find best deal. If there is a lot of varnish, run those oils for like 2K, get them out and then run next batch for 3-5K and keep doing it. Considering 2.4l is seriously not demanding engine, I would run Mobil1 or PP or Valvoline or Castrol (YOU CANNOT MAKE MISTAKE HERE in your case using these oils) full synthetic and keep OCI's at 5K.
Use some better filters like FRAM Ultra (although personally, I would ALWAYS run OEM filter).
Also for these ideas M1 0W40 or Castrol 0W30 (A3/B3 B4) those are first of all, heave oils for your non demanding engine. It will create more resistance and heat.
Do not overthink this.
What I would do?
1. Go to Toyota and get OEM oil filter.
2. Then go to Wal Mart and get Mobil1 5W30 Extended Performance (EP).
3. Run first batch 1K, second 3K and then after that keep 5K OCI.
 
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edyvw you and those OEM filters..... what am I going to do with you??? WORLD Champion.
smile.gif


All of the rest of your plan is spot on. Which isn't surprising. Very smart indeed. Except the OEM part for filters. Geez
 
I also go with OEM oil filters because you can't go wrong with them. Aftermarket-oil-filter quality is a hit-or-miss. I know Mobil 1 EP oil filters are supposedly excellent but they are also very expensive. Toyota OEM filter costs about $4 and if the dealer is nice, he will throw in a free new OEM drain-plug gasket as well, which outperforms any aftermarket gasket.

With the air filters, I would never go aftermarket. They don't fit right and the media is of poor quality. Nippondenso makes excellent air filters that fit perfectly.

Viscosity also depends on the condition of the engine. If it's burning a lot of oil, I would go with 0W-40 instead of 5W-30 -- saves money, oil, spark plugs, catalyst, and O_2 sensor due to less than half the consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
edyvw you and those OEM filters..... what am I going to do with you??? WORLD Champion.
smile.gif


All of the rest of your plan is spot on. Which isn't surprising. Very smart indeed. Except the OEM part for filters. Geez

Well yeah, I mean if difference in price is like $10, then it does not make sense. FRAM ultra will do good job, Mobil 1 , BOSCH etc.
I do not know about Toyota and how much is OEM filter (I used in my Mazda Millenia V6 when I was a student FRAM Ultra) but for BMW OEM filter is like $17 in dealership and aftermarket replacement is $14.
$3 not big deal, plus I buy it in local dealership so at least I pay local taxes and not some dealer at Amazon.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
I do not know about Toyota and how much is OEM filter (I used in my Mazda Millenia V6 when I was a student FRAM Ultra) but for BMW OEM filter is like $17 in dealership and aftermarket replacement is $14.
$3 not big deal, plus I buy it in local dealership so at least I pay local taxes and not some dealer at Amazon.

MSRP for Toyota OEM oil filter 90915-YZZF2 is $5.41 but it sells for under $5 or under $4 at the dealer.

OP's engine uses 90915-YZZF1, which has the same MSRP.
 
My 2.4 Yota has been a very happy camper running mostly on Quaker State Ultimate Durability and Valvoline Synthetics. I have run Purolator Pure One, Denso, and Bosch filters all with wonderful luck. Motor uses no oil and is very happy.

Probably a good time to change the PCV valve while you are at it also.
 
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