2013 Tacoma ATF Change?

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My 2013 Tacoma 4x4 has now 42,000 miles. Owner's manual does not recommend changing the ATF (my truck NEVER sees off-road or towing duty for severe service requirements -- it's strictly an on-road daily driver).

I've watched the videos of guys changing the ATF in this truck, and it's a complicated process that is beyond my ability. I'd have to take it to a dealer's service dept.

What would happen if I never changed the ATF and just drove it? Reckon how many miles I'd get before having transmission issues?
 
I've put a quarter million miles on several Tacomas and never fully changed out the ATF in any of them, but I've done numerous drain and fills on all of them. A full swap is beyond my desire and I never thought I needed it. Guys have run into trouble and done damage by not being fully prepared for a full change out. If you mean by complicated the magic fire dance to achieve the proper temps for a fluid change, get a ScanGauge and with it a drain and fill is relativemy easy. And don't cheat yourself on cheaper fluids - stick with the required Toyota WS.
 
Why not go by the manual?

Of course, somebody who thinks they know more than the Toyota engineers who designed the truck will probably say you should have already changed it.
 
The new Toyota temperature-dance routine is not even done by all the dealers; I know some who skip it. It's really pointless.

WS is not a "great" atf and even w/mild use can be worn out and induce slipping in heavier vehicles by ~100k. Starting now and fractionally diluting it with a fresh pan every 30k would be a wise move. I would definitely use a superior WS compatible full-synthetic fluid.
 
I would change it on a regular basis. See what the filter looks like. The filter is probably a screen
 
See My Post Here

Did you have a look over at TacomaWorld.com for the cooler line flush procedure? It does take some time to complete, but if you are going to keep your truck for a few years this is really good love for your tranny. I used Toyota WS while under warranty then switched to Amsoil Signature Series Fuel Efficient. My tranny was a little over 1/2 qt low from the factory. That temperature light dance can be avoided if you have or have a buddy that has an OBD2 scanner that has a real-time monitor feature. That's what I use to monitor the fluid temp; just shift through the gears a few time while the temp is climbing and then pull the overflow plug and let it drain to a small stream/trickle - GTG, work good and last a long time. I slightly over filled mine when I was ready to set the level so I didn't have to do the up-down, up-down thing when getting the level set.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I don't know if the design has changed since then, but I changed the fluid in my 2008 Tacoma using this method and Maxlife ATF:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/

Here's my thread:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2701768/1


Thank you, sir, for the excellent write-up and photos, but that long procedure is beyond my mechanical ability. I would be afraid I'd miss an important step and the tranny would never work properly again. I can freshen the ATF in my Honda Accord, but it has a simple drain plug on the pan and a fill tube up top. I wish all vehicles had that simple setup.

I did enjoy the read and the photos (sincerely).
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
I would change it on a regular basis. See what the filter looks like. The filter is probably a screen


Unless a filter is mounted on the outside where I can access it (which it's not on this truck), I won't be able to check any filter. I certainly won't be taking any pan off. I don't have a shop or sophisticated tools. If I took a pan off and tried to re-install it, that thing would leak fluid like crazy.

I think I'll have to pay the dealer service price (no independent shops around here in rural Alabama).
 
I moved on from OCD oil change intervals to premature changes of the transmission and differential fluids on my car.

Those probably aren't justified either, but at least it's more plausible that the diff will need changing before 150K miles.If nothing else, I extended the time I will have to do those things again by 20-30K miles.

Paying someone to change your diff fluid on your beat up 15/year old car feels a lot more like a repair than maintenance. Do it before the new wears completely off.
 
Nothing needed yet at 42k. Old school mentality is to do the first drain/fill at 60k then at every 30 after that since they are all partial. If you wanted to be aggressive you could start at 50k but since it's a DD and not towing I don't think the fluid is nearing its spent point yet.

There was no record of good maintenance on our tundra until the PO decided to sell it. The dealer put a different and incorrect fluid in it at 103k, which was likely its first ATF change judging by the truck's previous condition (didn't seem taken care of). I did three d/f's to amsoil, tow heavy regularly, and the trans doesn't miss a beat. If you do your own, definitely pay attention to fluid types to stay with WS or one that has the thinner viscosity.

M
 
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