Mixing Mobil 1 0w20 with 5w30

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My car is starting to use a little bit of oil between changes and my owner's manual says I can use either 0w20, 5w20 or 5w30 (in extreme situations). Well I decided I'd try to "thicken" the oil up a bit and mix the 0w20 with the 5w30 to see if it would reduce some consumption. Any problems with doing that? I figured it would just turn into a heavier 20 weight oil. Both are Mobil 1 synthetic...same bottle, etc...so I assume it's the same additive package.

The way my car uses oil is kind of strange; it starts out fine, no usage for the first 3,500 miles - after 3,500 I might add a half a quart till 4,500, but once it reaches 5,000 miles?? It drinks it to 7,500. I end up adding maybe a quart and a half/2 quarts between 5000-7500. My thoughts were that the lighter weight is shearing? And maybe going a little thicker will help. Like I said, the first 3,500 I won't lose a drop. And the car has no visible oil leaks. I suppose I could just cut the OCI's down to 5,000 miles, but with people going 10,000 miles and up, I figure 7,500 is pretty reasonable on a synthetic.
 
Have done that - not for the same reason - just that the thinner oils wind up on sale sometimes -
I do stick with all Mobil-1 or all PP if doing so ...
 
I'm sure mixing the two Mobil products won't hurt anything. I'd try using just 5/30 or change at 5K with a conventional. It might be worthwhile to try a high mileage oil as well.
 
I don't think you'd have any problem at all mixing those 2 M1 products but as SP said, I'd probably use conventional 5w20 or 5w30 for 5K and call it good. I can't see using syn. in a car that uses oil....
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't think you'd have any problem at all mixing those 2 M1 products but as SP said, I'd probably use conventional 5w20 or 5w30 for 5K and call it good. I can't see using syn. in a car that uses oil....


It's a Lexus LS460. Oil change intervals are recommended at 5k, unless you use a synthetic, then it's 10k. It takes 9.1 quarts.
 
Originally Posted By: NormanBuntz
What vehicle? Maybe an 0w-30 is in your future.


It's a LS460. I did buy a five quart jug of the 0w30 to mix with the 0w20 (I bought 6 jugs because of the Mobil 1 rebate going on).
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
I don't think you'd have any problem at all mixing those 2 M1 products but as SP said, I'd probably use conventional 5w20 or 5w30 for 5K and call it good. I can't see using syn. in a car that uses oil....


I might consider that when I run out of all the Mobil synthetic I bought on sale (plus the rebate). That might be a good idea if I'm going to cut the OCI's down to 5k.
 
Call Mobil and ask them what they think of the mix.
27.gif
 
Fill with your 0W20. After all its thick enough for the first 3500 miles.

Use 5W30 if that's what you have for add oil.

0W40 would be a good add oil if you have to buy more in the future. After all you are trying to thicken it back up.
 
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Fill with your 0W20. After all its thick enough for the first 3500 miles.

Use 5W30 if that's what you have for add oil.

0W40 would be a good add oil if you have to buy more in the future. After all you are trying to thicken it back up.


Good idea. Any idea why my car doesn't burn a drop during the first 3,500-4,000 miles and then uses 2 quarts after?
 
Originally Posted By: doublebase
My car is starting to use a little bit of oil between changes and my owner's manual says I can use either 0w20, 5w20 or 5w30 (in extreme situations). Well I decided I'd try to "thicken" the oil up a bit and mix the 0w20 with the 5w30 to see if it would reduce some consumption. Any problems with doing that? I figured it would just turn into a heavier 20 weight oil. Both are Mobil 1 synthetic...same bottle, etc...so I assume it's the same additive package.

The way my car uses oil is kind of strange; it starts out fine, no usage for the first 3,500 miles - after 3,500 I might add a half a quart till 4,500, but once it reaches 5,000 miles?? It drinks it to 7,500. I end up adding maybe a quart and a half/2 quarts between 5000-7500. My thoughts were that the lighter weight is shearing? And maybe going a little thicker will help. Like I said, the first 3,500 I won't lose a drop. And the car has no visible oil leaks. I suppose I could just cut the OCI's down to 5,000 miles, but with people going 10,000 miles and up, I figure 7,500 is pretty reasonable on a synthetic.


Easy fix just change your oil at 5000 miles with the correct grade.

Well done you asked and answered your own question.
Oil is cheap and it is recycled.

Use your spare time to meditate on more important things.
 
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I'm sure mixing 2 variations of Mobil 1 won't hurt at all & you're probably correct about it just creating a heavier 20 weight oil, perhaps a "5W-25"?
grin.gif


After you use up the 20 weight oil, I suggest you just switch to a 5W-30 full time.
 
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Originally Posted By: doublebase
My car is starting to use a little bit of oil between changes and my owner's manual says I can use either 0w20, 5w20 or 5w30 (in extreme situations). Well I decided I'd try to "thicken" the oil up a bit and mix the 0w20 with the 5w30 to see if it would reduce some consumption. Any problems with doing that? I figured it would just turn into a heavier 20 weight oil. Both are Mobil 1 synthetic...same bottle, etc...so I assume it's the same additive package.

The way my car uses oil is kind of strange; it starts out fine, no usage for the first 3,500 miles - after 3,500 I might add a half a quart till 4,500, but once it reaches 5,000 miles?? It drinks it to 7,500. I end up adding maybe a quart and a half/2 quarts between 5000-7500. My thoughts were that the lighter weight is shearing? And maybe going a little thicker will help. Like I said, the first 3,500 I won't lose a drop. And the car has no visible oil leaks. I suppose I could just cut the OCI's down to 5,000 miles, but with people going 10,000 miles and up, I figure 7,500 is pretty reasonable on a synthetic.


Easy fix just change your oil at 5000 miles with the correct grade.

Well done you asked and answered your own question.
Oil is cheap and it is recycled.

Use your spare time to meditate on more important things.


Excellent, now that that's settled I'm having a problem with my pool. I fear that when I closed it I didn't properly "winterized it" and there's an abundance of algae present. I went through 8 gallons of shock, a gallon of algacide and two pounds of chlorine already...and now? It's still green. I suppose I could have closed it properly and avoided this problem, what do you think?

And carbs...I just can't avoid them. I'm trying to get into bathing suite shape, but it's just not working out. I suppose I could just not buy them and then I wouldn't eat them, what do you think? Because I want to be the best I can be.

I forgot to mention I drive 35,000 miles a year and my car takes 9.1 quarts of synthetic...with filters that amounts to...roughly $455 dollars...or almost double that if I paid someone to do it. So that's why I'm trying to extend the oil changes out.
 
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Originally Posted By: doublebase
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Fill with your 0W20. After all its thick enough for the first 3500 miles.

Use 5W30 if that's what you have for add oil.

0W40 would be a good add oil if you have to buy more in the future. After all you are trying to thicken it back up.


Good idea. Any idea why my car doesn't burn a drop during the first 3,500-4,000 miles and then uses 2 quarts after?


Probably because the oil is thinning down a bit and being consumed as a result. I'd consider drawing on oil sample via the dipstick tube 4,000 miles into your OCI and getting a UOA. That might give you some idea as to what's going on vs. educated guesses.
 
Originally Posted By: doublebase
Originally Posted By: virginoil

Easy fix just change your oil at 5000 miles with the correct grade.

Well done you asked and answered your own question.
Oil is cheap and it is recycled.

Use your spare time to meditate on more important things.


Excellent, now that that's settled ........................................

I forgot to mention I drive 35,000 miles a year and my car takes 9.1 quarts of synthetic...with filters that amounts to...roughly $455 dollars...or almost double that if I paid someone to do it. So that's why I'm trying to extend the oil changes out.


Yeah but think of the satisfaction you will have knowing there is less oil burning at 5000 miles compared to the 7500 mile OCIs.

More time to keep algae out of the pool and better manage the carbs so you can get into your swim suite.
 
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But seriously, with an algae outbreak that bad...my advice is always to drain the pool halfway (or whatever the safe level is) and refill with fresh water when someone starts the season with a cruddy pool. You'll be spending mega bucks on chemicals and it will take a lot of time to try to kill dirty water with chemicals only. If it's really bad, drain half, refill, drain half, refill again. Then start your water testing and treatment. I assume you're taking your water to get tested? If they have a spin lab it'll print the exact results of how many gallons, ounces, pounds of x,y,z you need. But with a really bad pool, from my experience, you'll be coming back about 5-10 times before the water gets to a more tolerable level. Also, if you're set on going the chemical route, you gotta vacuum all that algae out. Suck it all out with a pool vac until it's gone, test and treat the water, clean the pool again, etc. Don't treat the algae until you've sucked it out. If there's as much as it sounds like your filter probably needs to be checked, too (if you're running the filter). What kind of pool? In ground? Above ground? You might have a phosphate issue, too, with all of the sediment from winter/spring and the fact the algae are doing super well. Get your water tested at a spin lab! Many pool/spa places have them. If you buy chemical from them they usually do it free. Or, if not, you can convince them to if you buy chemical from them by using sales tactics on them.
 
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