Is there any synthetic oil that cleans out an engine better than others?
Like pennzoil platinum might clean better than mobil1.
Like pennzoil platinum might clean better than mobil1.
Best synthetic oil for cleaning out an engine.
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Depends on what deposits are. It they are made by a synthetic oil in high mileage motor, you be looking at Kreen or BG109. If they are mineral oil based deposits, a high dose PAO oil will loosen them right up.
If it's a high mileage motor with sludge, I go slow cleaning it. I use HDEO for the added detergency. Shell Rotella T6 and an oversized oil filter will do fine over many oil changes.
There are other strategies ...
If it's a high mileage motor with sludge, I go slow cleaning it. I use HDEO for the added detergency. Shell Rotella T6 and an oversized oil filter will do fine over many oil changes.
There are other strategies ...
Try Pennzoil Ultra Platinum,it has never let me down!
Some engine flush products do a lot better, faster job than the basic add pack of a synthetic oil. it is the add pack, after all, that contributes to any cleaning.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Some engine flush products do a lot better, faster job than the basic add pack of a synthetic oil. it is the add pack, after all, that contributes to any cleaning.
Using a flush is risky. Do it slow with synthetic oil.
Some engine flush products do a lot better, faster job than the basic add pack of a synthetic oil. it is the add pack, after all, that contributes to any cleaning.
Using a flush is risky. Do it slow with synthetic oil.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Some engine flush products do a lot better, faster job than the basic add pack of a synthetic oil. it is the add pack, after all, that contributes to any cleaning.
Using a flush is risky. Do it slow with synthetic oil.
this is why I want to use synthetic.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Some engine flush products do a lot better, faster job than the basic add pack of a synthetic oil. it is the add pack, after all, that contributes to any cleaning.
Using a flush is risky. Do it slow with synthetic oil.
this is why I want to use synthetic.
GrIII and GrIV basestocks in and of themselves aren't that good at cleaning...it's the total package that does the cleaning rather than synthetic per se.
If you MUST have a synthetic, then go Pennz, or T6.
If you don't have an absolute need to go full synthetic, then Pennz gold blend, and 4-5K OCIs.
If you MUST have a synthetic, then go Pennz, or T6.
If you don't have an absolute need to go full synthetic, then Pennz gold blend, and 4-5K OCIs.
A trucker I knew yrs back said he used straight Kerosene added to the oil of a warm idling engine and let it idle for 20 minutes. because his truck had a huge oil pan, he used 3 quarts of kerosene.
I though he was yanking my chain, but my clunker back then was dirty as can be with caked-up rocker covers. I dumped in 2 whole cups into the dirty engine oil and let it run, no-load idle for 30 minutes. Stopped the engine and allowed the pan to drain for 20 minutes and did a oil & filter change. Wow, the junk the came out!
On my current Impala I did a kerosene flush then changed over to full synthetic.
However, I won't do it again for a while, almost all flushes that work well have an astringent that can dry out crankshaft seals that will lead to oil leaks.
I though he was yanking my chain, but my clunker back then was dirty as can be with caked-up rocker covers. I dumped in 2 whole cups into the dirty engine oil and let it run, no-load idle for 30 minutes. Stopped the engine and allowed the pan to drain for 20 minutes and did a oil & filter change. Wow, the junk the came out!
On my current Impala I did a kerosene flush then changed over to full synthetic.
However, I won't do it again for a while, almost all flushes that work well have an astringent that can dry out crankshaft seals that will lead to oil leaks.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
GrIII and GrIV basestocks in and of themselves aren't that good at cleaning...it's the total package that does the cleaning rather than synthetic per se.
If you MUST have a synthetic, then go Pennz, or T6.
If you don't have an absolute need to go full synthetic, then Pennz gold blend, and 4-5K OCIs.
I do a good amount of long drives. 4 hours straight per trip. I figure it would be ideal to allow synthetic oil to work its way around the engine.
GrIII and GrIV basestocks in and of themselves aren't that good at cleaning...it's the total package that does the cleaning rather than synthetic per se.
If you MUST have a synthetic, then go Pennz, or T6.
If you don't have an absolute need to go full synthetic, then Pennz gold blend, and 4-5K OCIs.
I do a good amount of long drives. 4 hours straight per trip. I figure it would be ideal to allow synthetic oil to work its way around the engine.
I have heard that POE based synthetics have extra cleaning power, but they are extremely expensive. Redline makes such an oil.
Also, since the level of detergent in oil is important for engine cleanliness, it might be wise to use an HDEO rated oil, because they need extra detergent to cope with soot loading.
If that is all true, Redline 15w40 would make an excellent oil for cleaning.
Sometimes the easiest thing to do is use "Engine flush." You put it in your old oil, idle the car for 15-30 minutes, then drain the oil. However, there is a huge disadvantage. If an engine has a very large amount of sludge, Sometimes it all breaks free at once and clogs up the oil pump pickup. That can quickly destroy the engine.
Also, since the level of detergent in oil is important for engine cleanliness, it might be wise to use an HDEO rated oil, because they need extra detergent to cope with soot loading.
If that is all true, Redline 15w40 would make an excellent oil for cleaning.
Sometimes the easiest thing to do is use "Engine flush." You put it in your old oil, idle the car for 15-30 minutes, then drain the oil. However, there is a huge disadvantage. If an engine has a very large amount of sludge, Sometimes it all breaks free at once and clogs up the oil pump pickup. That can quickly destroy the engine.
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
A trucker I knew yrs back said he used straight Kerosene added to the oil of a warm idling engine and let it idle for 20 minutes. because his truck had a huge oil pan, he used 3 quarts of kerosene.
I though he was yanking my chain, but my clunker back then was dirty as can be with caked-up rocker covers. I dumped in 2 whole cups into the dirty engine oil and let it run, no-load idle for 30 minutes. Stopped the engine and allowed the pan to drain for 20 minutes and did a oil & filter change. Wow, the junk the came out!
On my current Impala I did a kerosene flush then changed over to full synthetic.
However, I won't do it again for a while, almost all flushes that work well have an astringent that can dry out crankshaft seals that will lead to oil leaks.
Astringents shrink body tissues, what's that got to do with miotor oil.
A trucker I knew yrs back said he used straight Kerosene added to the oil of a warm idling engine and let it idle for 20 minutes. because his truck had a huge oil pan, he used 3 quarts of kerosene.
I though he was yanking my chain, but my clunker back then was dirty as can be with caked-up rocker covers. I dumped in 2 whole cups into the dirty engine oil and let it run, no-load idle for 30 minutes. Stopped the engine and allowed the pan to drain for 20 minutes and did a oil & filter change. Wow, the junk the came out!
On my current Impala I did a kerosene flush then changed over to full synthetic.
However, I won't do it again for a while, almost all flushes that work well have an astringent that can dry out crankshaft seals that will lead to oil leaks.
Astringents shrink body tissues, what's that got to do with miotor oil.
Up top I mentioned Kreen and BG109. These are both very aggressive cleaners.
Kerosene is just #1 Diesel equivalent. Regular diesel oil will do the same trick. For beater motors we have filled them to the valve covers with diesel on top of whatever oil was in there and idled them for 5~10 minutes. BUT, we then pull the pan and dump everything out, clean the pick-up screen, re-install the pan with new gaskets and go. These are for engines out of a vehicle on a pallet running free. I would never do this for an engine in a vehicle unless I could get the pan off ...
Kerosene is just #1 Diesel equivalent. Regular diesel oil will do the same trick. For beater motors we have filled them to the valve covers with diesel on top of whatever oil was in there and idled them for 5~10 minutes. BUT, we then pull the pan and dump everything out, clean the pick-up screen, re-install the pan with new gaskets and go. These are for engines out of a vehicle on a pallet running free. I would never do this for an engine in a vehicle unless I could get the pan off ...
Maybe things have changed but as a rule just change the oil early. How early, maybe a 1'000 to 1,500 mi on several oil changes. A higher detergent oil would be better. Doing this with synthetics would be rather costly especially along the line of Penz Ultra or Amsoil. I was taught this is better than additives.
Don't think the distinction between M1 and PP would even matter. Penz claims up to X% better cleaning than M1, which isn't much of a claim.
I've used M1 @ 10k intervals with over 270 k miles on my truck and a spotless engine. I wouldn't want better cleaning, frankly.
I'd do one shorter interval and then resume normal intervals with a good synthetic. If it takes a while to clean it up, that's good as it's less risky.
I've used M1 @ 10k intervals with over 270 k miles on my truck and a spotless engine. I wouldn't want better cleaning, frankly.
I'd do one shorter interval and then resume normal intervals with a good synthetic. If it takes a while to clean it up, that's good as it's less risky.
Originally Posted By: dew
Don't think the distinction between M1 and PP would even matter. Penz claims up to X% better cleaning than M1, which isn't much of a claim.
I've used M1 @ 10k intervals with over 270 k miles on my truck and a spotless engine. I wouldn't want better cleaning, frankly.
I'd do one shorter interval and then resume normal intervals with a good synthetic. If it takes a while to clean it up, that's good as it's less risky.
Yeah that make sense of steady diet good oil - stay clean. But I get the impression that the OP wants to clean an already dirty engine - then what...
Don't think the distinction between M1 and PP would even matter. Penz claims up to X% better cleaning than M1, which isn't much of a claim.
I've used M1 @ 10k intervals with over 270 k miles on my truck and a spotless engine. I wouldn't want better cleaning, frankly.
I'd do one shorter interval and then resume normal intervals with a good synthetic. If it takes a while to clean it up, that's good as it's less risky.
Yeah that make sense of steady diet good oil - stay clean. But I get the impression that the OP wants to clean an already dirty engine - then what...
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: dew
Don't think the distinction between M1 and PP would even matter. Penz claims up to X% better cleaning than M1, which isn't much of a claim.
I've used M1 @ 10k intervals with over 270 k miles on my truck and a spotless engine. I wouldn't want better cleaning, frankly.
I'd do one shorter interval and then resume normal intervals with a good synthetic. If it takes a while to clean it up, that's good as it's less risky.
Yeah that make sense of steady diet good oil - stay clean. But I get the impression that the OP wants to clean an already dirty engine - then what...
I think it would still be cleaned slowly to good enough, maybe not perfect, if there isn't something mechanically wrong...
Originally Posted By: dew
Don't think the distinction between M1 and PP would even matter. Penz claims up to X% better cleaning than M1, which isn't much of a claim.
I've used M1 @ 10k intervals with over 270 k miles on my truck and a spotless engine. I wouldn't want better cleaning, frankly.
I'd do one shorter interval and then resume normal intervals with a good synthetic. If it takes a while to clean it up, that's good as it's less risky.
Yeah that make sense of steady diet good oil - stay clean. But I get the impression that the OP wants to clean an already dirty engine - then what...
I think it would still be cleaned slowly to good enough, maybe not perfect, if there isn't something mechanically wrong...
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Bro in law just hit 380k on Silverado 1500 - used Mobil Drive Clean and then Mobil Super 5W-30.
5k OCI at Mobil lube franchise ...
That motor has not seen these two things:
1.) any wrench but a filter wrench
2.) any synthetic oil
Seems that conventional is a good detergent oil ?
5k OCI at Mobil lube franchise ...
That motor has not seen these two things:
1.) any wrench but a filter wrench
2.) any synthetic oil
Seems that conventional is a good detergent oil ?
Originally Posted By: anylettuce
Is there any synthetic oil that cleans out an engine better than others?
Like pennzoil platinum might clean better than mobil1.
M1 has a good reputation as a cleaner, but any modern synthetic should do a good job. Use shorter (4k?) intervals for several changes.
If the engine isn't sludged, then just change to your favorite variety and go. If it is, you'll probably want to clean out the valve covers and pan first, then change with synthetic for several short intervals before extending to normal OCI.
Is there any synthetic oil that cleans out an engine better than others?
Like pennzoil platinum might clean better than mobil1.
M1 has a good reputation as a cleaner, but any modern synthetic should do a good job. Use shorter (4k?) intervals for several changes.
If the engine isn't sludged, then just change to your favorite variety and go. If it is, you'll probably want to clean out the valve covers and pan first, then change with synthetic for several short intervals before extending to normal OCI.
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