Peerless/Tecumseh 205-024c

Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
738
Location
Albany, NY
I was driving my murray tractor and pushed the accelerator go go up a hill, next thing I know the pedal is stuck and the mower is in a smoke storm because of a locked pulley. These are supposed to be throwaway units, and there is a kit for 800$ that completely replaces the trans, total ripoff in my book. No warranty either. If I had to go that route I would get a new mower. Anyway I dropped the trans, opened it up and noticed the cap bolts were either loose or completely broken off. One came out whole, one broke below the surface, one broke flush, one broke with a stub(vice grip friendly).

You can see from the images below a scar in the case from the loose bolt..

GrZLbvt.jpg


OvzJ3O2.jpg



Beyond that, the unit is now off to a welding shop to fix:
-The external actuator pin that broke when the bolt blocked the shift mechasim
-a crack in the case from from not seeing 2 bolts (kinda visible in pic #2 at the top
-removing the the broken cap bolts studs.


Now I'm wondering what oil is used to replace. You see the tar in the bucket, not pretty. This unit requires 2 oils, and they are separated by an RTV seal.

80W90 for the diff

Now the pump I'm not sure yet. There is a peerless pump oil kit, it is just branded mystery oil, cost about $40ish shipped. Now I'm reading everyone is using 20W50 synth motorcycle oil, or even 15W50 Mobil 1. The kit comes with an extra bellows, but mine is not leaking and looks fine. I noticed that the unit was getting a bit more sluggish over time, I guess that is due to that horrible oil. It is 15 years old, I installed an hour meter a few years ago, I would estimate 175 hrs on the unit.

I am going to use the special RTV for differentials, I had very good luck with it. Worth the extra few bucks. The case looks very porous.
 
Just FYI for anyone who sees this thread, the bolts are 5/16 X 18 X 1.5" with a flanged top. Hardware store carries them but no more in the bin.

Original bolts had no marking, hardware store has grade 5.

Crack and pin were successfully welded.
 
Ok, turns out the OEMs are trilobe screws - sort of like squashed triangle in the bolt. I thought it was from vibration.

The screws actually are designed to cut a thread like a tap and never come out under vibration (so much for that). Probably saved the co 20cents a unit cause they don't have to tap or use locktite.
 
In my experience, the torque for a particular assembly almost always follows fastener size/grade guidelines.

So for a 5/16"-18 gr5 bolt, you'd have 13lbs. Grade 8 would be 18lbs.
 
Got it all back together, used right stuff grey to finish it off. No leaks, runs faster and cooler. Saved a buying a mower with similar specs that is 2 grand, and that is the Big Box quality, probably 4grand in an outdoor shop. Belt is on its last leg from the smoke show, but even cracked it still works fine after adjusting to the tension limit. Ordered a new kelvar one. Installed new gator much blades too.

M1 20W50 in the pump - about 46oz
VV Durablend 80W90 in the diff - less than 20oz

31 - 1/4 X1 1 1/4 -20 case bolts, torqued to about 10 ft/lbs
4 - 5/16 X 1 1/2 - 18 cap bolts, flanged, grade 8, torqued to 22 ft/lbs, red locktite.
 
Last edited:
Hi,

Very very helpful and informative post which I came across while searching for advice in trying to repair my own mower with a damaged Peerless 205 transmission.

Hope this is acceptable, but as as result of my own experiences in repairing my transmission, I've created a Facebook Group aimed specifically at offering advice about repairing the Peerless 205 transmission (Peerless 205 Hydrostatic Transmission Repair Group)

Link below.


Regards

Alan C
 
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