Poulan Pro 5020AV carburetor adjustment

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Guys, I just bought a new saw and it will be delivered by this weekend. I have read many times that they come very lean from the factory and should be adjusted slightly, especially for break in. I have read three , what look to be educated, posts that go thru the procedure but they differ slightly. Here is a summary of what i read. I wish i could just find the service manual that goes thru the procedure.

1) turn both H/L until bottomed out. Back out 1 turn each as a starting point. Adjust out for richer mixture

2) turn both H/L until bottomed out. Back out 1 1/4 turn each as a starting point. Adjust out for richer mixture

3) turn both H/L until bottomed out. Back out 1 turn each as a starting point. Adjust in for richer mixture

So the real question is this: Do you turn them in our out for a richer mixture?
 
If it's a new saw. I seriously would not **** with it. The only saws I had to adjust and actually fiddle with are the saws that people "Thought" they were making better. Poulan put numerous anti tamper devices on there for a reason. I bought a Poulan chainsaw new when I moved to Florida in 2002. I have used the heck out of that thing. Four hurricanes and a tree in my pool. I have replaced the chain three times cleaned the oiler, replaced the primer bulb and fuel lines with tygon lines. I never touched the adjustments on that carb. It still runs Great. Just my two cents, if it isn't broke, don't fix it.
 
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I also run my oil in pre mix richer, which will have some people, by therory, claiming that is terriable, it makes them run leaner yet, less gas. This is bull. It's fuel to air, regardless make it liquid to air. I have yet to lose a two stroke engine- ever. I also get the longest life from my two strokes. My weed trimmer is 23 years old, original internals, never carb adjusted always on a rich mixture of 32:1. Regardless of oil type. Yes, it smokes.
 
I was going to suggest running the oil mix slightly "rich" for the first few hours. The oil has very little effect on the actual fuel ratio when you crunch the numbers. After you get it broken in, then it might be of benefit to adjust the "H" screw till the RPMs top out, and then a little extra for safety. I hesitate to go too rich on newer stuff because of the cat converter carbon/clogging problems on OPE that actually gets used. Your saw...your call.
 
I've been tuning 2 stroke chainsaws for years. I have always set my own tune for power and clean running. Never had an engine failure and I've never been happy with the factory settings.
 
The number of turns is just to get the saw started; the final adjustment is done by ear.

On the low speed mixture needle, you turn the L needle to both extreme lean and extreme rich; the highest idle speed between full lean and full rich is your best mixture setting. Repeat these steps for the H needle, but with your finger on the trigger at full throttle.
 
Thank you guys very much. Got my saw in yesterday and will use it this weekend.
 
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