need some methods of burping ait out

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Dexcool . they say it lasts 5 years , or 150000 , I have 43,000 only on the car. now the Dexcool in the reservoir overflow has very tiny flakes in it , but not big chunks, so I figure Ill do a complete drain and refill with fresh new Dexcool and distilled water. my question is how do I get the air out the old conventional way with out disturbing that bleeder screw , because my luck it will break off or leak so I would rather just rain it fill it with water run it drain it do it again , now when I'm ready to put the dexcool in and the rest with distilled water , how do I get all the air out , squeeze the radiator hoses , with the cap off cold.. and the fill it run it check it and redo that again .will this method work?
 
You should loosen the bleeder, use a small wrench on it and give the wrench a couple of light taps with a hammer to break it free if need be,
 
I am not sure about your particular model but in my experience you WILL need the bleeder if you want your heat to work.

I wouldn't worry about it, those things usually come loose as long as you don't do something dumb
 
Originally Posted By: Drosselmier
When draining the coolant repeatedly, do you collect the coolant each time for recycle ? You would need a lot of gallon jugs to do the right thing.


I solved that problem by using distilled water.
 
I used the AirLift II for the first time recently, and I'll NEVER do a coolant fill again without it. 3 minute process, no burping, no mess, and it got the deep recesses of the heater core which is a royal [censored] to purge given its waaay higher than the rest of the coolant system.

https://youtu.be/YaRIxqAW3zk

I'll never do it again without it, worth every penny. This is the model I bought, I preferred the solid brass over the plastic economy version

UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_afQBxbM03HRBG
 
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That air purge tool is pretty slick, but a little spendy.

My .02 - if you can open the bleeder screw, do so. If it's seized, inaccessible, non-existent or whatever, here's what I do:

1. Raise the front end (or rear if it's a mid/rear engine vehicle) of the car. Remember, the air will always want to rise to the highest point.

2. Remove the upper rad hose at the rad and fill through the hose until full.

3. Replace hose, and squeeze all accessible rad hoses repeatedly until you have 'pumped' coolant into the rad, reservoir, block, etc. Repeat this a few more times, until the hoses all feel full. Fill with coolant again as necessary.

4. Leave the rad cap off, start the engine and turn the heat on to max. If there is no hot air at the vents within a minute or two, shut the engine off - you have air trapped in the system. Repeat step 3 a few more times, then go back to step 4.

Eventually you'll get all of the air out of the system. It may take one attempt, it may take 5.

Be careful to avoid burning yourself - coolant can be hot. lol.

I've done this numerous times on various vehicles that had bleeder screws that were seized and have always been successful. Sometimes it takes a few tries, but it always works.
 
Keep the radiator cover off....rev the engine for about 2000rpm until the cooling fans turn on(i.e. meaning the thermostat opened).
YOU will get a mess but it will remove the air
 
This is all you need... Spill-free funnel

You stick the o-ringed tube through the cap attachment, then stick the funnel on top. You fill antifreeze until you maintain a fluid level above the top of the radiator. Start the engine and turn the heater on high, let it run for a couple minutes. It will burp into the funnel and eliminate bubbles in the system. Once bubbling has stopped, turn the engine off. Stick the plug into the funnel. Disconnect funnel from filler tube. Place funnel over coolant jug. Remove plug and have a spill-free top off!
 
Originally Posted By: kala_azar
I used the AirLift II for the first time recently, and I'll NEVER do a coolant fill again without it. 3 minute process, no burping, no mess, and it got the deep recesses of the heater core which is a royal [censored] to purge given its waaay higher than the rest of the coolant system.

https://youtu.be/YaRIxqAW3zk

I'll never do it again without it, worth every penny. This is the model I bought, I preferred the solid brass over the plastic economy version

UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_afQBxbM03HRBG


That Airlift kit gets "most" of the air out, not all. Youtube had a clear hose and PVC pipe cooling system mock up. You can see at the end of the vacuum there was air still in the tubes. No sale.

Here's the video on it that shows air STILL in the system. youtube

slomo
 
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Originally Posted By: Lubener
I drill a small hole(1/16) in the thermostat so I never had to worry about it.


Just as he said. Self burping easy as pie. I drilled two holes in my Jeep CJ7 thermo. Without while refilling coolant, radiator was full. Temp gauge hit the moon. I was like what??? Did the two small hole trick in the thermostat. Problem solved, perfect heat for a Jeep anyway.

slomo
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
This is all you need... Spill-free funnel

You stick the o-ringed tube through the cap attachment, then stick the funnel on top. You fill antifreeze until you maintain a fluid level above the top of the radiator. Start the engine and turn the heater on high, let it run for a couple minutes. It will burp into the funnel and eliminate bubbles in the system. Once bubbling has stopped, turn the engine off. Stick the plug into the funnel. Disconnect funnel from filler tube. Place funnel over coolant jug. Remove plug and have a spill-free top off!


Or use a tall water bottle or 2 liter soda bottle for free. Those spill free suckers are like 50 bucks.

slomo
 
Originally Posted By: slomo
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
This is all you need... Spill-free funnel

You stick the o-ringed tube through the cap attachment, then stick the funnel on top. You fill antifreeze until you maintain a fluid level above the top of the radiator. Start the engine and turn the heater on high, let it run for a couple minutes. It will burp into the funnel and eliminate bubbles in the system. Once bubbling has stopped, turn the engine off. Stick the plug into the funnel. Disconnect funnel from filler tube. Place funnel over coolant jug. Remove plug and have a spill-free top off!


Or use a tall water bottle or 2 liter soda bottle for free. Those spill free suckers are like 50 bucks.

slomo


Actually about $25 and worth it. You need an air tight seal, which you can't get from a soda bottle. And if you have ever had to deal with a fill spot under the cowl or other difficult to access area (Toyota Sienna, some RV's, etc) , the Lisle with it's adapters is a Godsend.
 
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Burping a 1998-2002 Lincoln 4.6L with crossover cap

I followed this procedure twice recently with no issues. Easy as pie. Having the car up on a ramp, or pointed up your driveway helps. If you have an older style car without a pressurized degas bottle or where the radiator top/fill is the high point, you don't have to quite deal with this type of venting. But for my car, you cannot remove all the air via the degas/over flow bottle cap. The car will run hotter or overheat. I suggest having a spare bleeder available in case on gets broken.

A simple funnel wrapped with 3-4 turns of electrical tap seals it from leaking. You can stick a rag under it for any minor amount that bubbles over. I used a small 2 cup funnel and never came close to over-flowing, even at 2,000 rpm stabs. Once you filled your degas bottle to the proper level and sealed it, then you move on to the bleeders/crossover caps. In my case it was dickens to get my cap off. Whoever last put it on at a shop torqued it good. I could tell someone also drilled into that cap to get a better grip with a specialty tool (like a 2 pronged spanner). Some places sell replacement caps with large nuts on top so you can't strip out a recessed square plug. You only need to apply moderate seating force to keep it from loosening up (10-20 ft-lbs). Put anti-seize on the threads to make it easy next time.

Once the thermostat opens, don't run the car too much longer as the coolant will continue to expand and overflow your funnel. As soon as the coolant cools back down to 100-130 deg F and you can get the cap/bleeder closed, you're good to go for a short drive. Check it again once cool....first at the degas bottle...then at the crossover/bleeder. Don't open them both together. Squeezing the hoses helps initially. But, will have less effect once the system is mostly filled. If you happen to have too much coolant left in the funnel after it's cooled down to 100-130 deg, scoop it out with measuring cup or something. I just used a tablespoon and was done in a couple minutes.
 
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