Valley plate removal GM 6.0

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Hello.
Performing a knock sensor repair on a 2006 Cadillac Escalade 6.0 this weekend. I would like to remove the valley plate to thoroughly clean out the knock sensor holes and replace the grommets. Is this a difficult task and how are the 2 grommets attached to the knock sensor holes?
Thanks.
 
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Easy job. The knock sensors have to come out first, then the valley plate. Just unbolt and lift off. The seals are a light press fit in the valley plate. They seal like an axle seal the post the knock sensor screws into.
 
So if for whatever reason I can't get that sensor out because it's so corroded I can still pull the valley plate off leaving the sensor and The grommet on the post?
 
No.

I've ran into to that before- you just have to get medieval on the sensor. I think I used a chisel and channel lock pliers to get it out.
 
Ok thanks. Reading about sensor removal failures online the stud that goes into the post breaks off the bell part of the sensor leaving enough to grab onto with vice grips are channel locks. I was thinking I could break that top part off then remove the valley to get a grip on it or drill it out
 
The valley plate came out easily. Replaced the gasket and the 2 grommets.
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I knocked the grommets out with a hammer and screwdriver then put motor oil around the new grommets and gently tapped them into place with a hammer.

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It was much easier to clean the knock sensor holes. Thanks again for the help!
 
You did a very nice job. I've got a 2006 Sierra Denali with the same LQ9 6.0L at 138k miles. Have not needed to do this job yet but when that day comes atleast I know what it looks like down in there. Thanks for the post and excellent pictures.
 
Don't you wish that our LSx engines had access to the lifters through the valley, instead of having to completely pull the heads off to get to them?
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Is that a Victor Reinz valley cover gasket??
 
GMBoy: In hindsight wish I had done it before the CEL went off. Its not a hard job at all. I didn't get a real good picture of what I found when I took the intake manifold off but in this pic you can see that both harness boots where popped off exposing both KS to the environment for what looks like years.

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The rear sensor which tripped CEL P0332 had a half inch of standing water in the hole. The new harness fit very tight into the hole but to be doubly sure I used RTV / gasket maker black around the boot to seal it in really good. Then used more around the seal to make sure it doesn't come out again. Not sure if the rear foam had anything to do with tugging on the harness but I did not put it back in only the front

Morning piston slap - gone.
GM ticks - gone
Slightly rough idle - gone
Drivetrain slop and clunk - much better almost gone.

Yes I put in a new IMG so some of it can be attributed to that. But I'm also thinking that although they were not tripping a code maybe both KS were not setting timing correctly because without the boots sealing the holes they were picking up other noises??

dailydriver: I did not use that VICTOR REINZ master set because it did not have the grommets for the valley cover. This is the parts I used... ( some Amazon, some RockAuto)

- VICTOR REINZ MS16340 IMG set
- FEL-PRO MS92465 Lifter Valley Cover Set
- FEL-PRO ES71190 lower injector O-rings (not used)
- Lisle 37000 Air Conditioning/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set
- Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
- STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS J72001 TechSmart KS harness
- ACDelco 213-3521 OEM KS

Should have bought..
- ACDelco 17113552 GM Original Equipment Fuel Injection Fuel Rail O-Ring Kit. ( or a Fel-Pro/Vic reinz equiv).

The way the fuel rail crossover tube connects to the rails it has the potential to leak. At a minimum the gaskets should be replaced in my case should have replaced the entire crossover tube because of surface corrosion at the seal. I can't find a part number for that.
 
One other thing to be aware of with these engines;

IF you ever wash, power wash, or steam clean this engine MAKE SURE that you COMPLETELY/TOTALLY block off/seal the ends (BOTH) of the intake manifold openings under the intake and above the valley cover.

THIS is why I had to change out my factory knock sensors, but I'm guessing you already figured this out with how much standing water was in your knock sensor recesses.
 
I put a small amount of water on the front of the engine to clean off some coolant after replacing the throttle body. I didn't hose the engine down or pressure wash it or anything like that. 2 Days Later the check engine light was on for the rear knock sensor . In hindsight I'm glad it happened. It's never run better. The piston slap and the ticking is gone.
 
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I wish I would have seen this thread earlier....Any time you have a valley cover off a Gen-3 LS engine, Install a LS6 Valley Cover with a integrated PCV/oil separator, Far superior oil control over the "Orificed" PCV in the Valve Cover.

It bolts on any iron block & '03 & up Aluminum blocks, '97-'02 non-LS6 aluminum blocks require grinding.




 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
What happens to the existing PCV? How would it function and connect to the intake?


Plug the PCV on the left Valve Cover with the red vacuum cap that comes with the new Valley Cover.

Truck intakes don't have a vacuum source near the "LS6 PCV" port like car intakes. If not using a Catch Can, Run some 3/8" Transmission Cooler Hose from the valley cover around the back of the intake to the original PCV vacuum source.
 
Did you remove the foam blocks under the intake manifold? I removed mines when I did the KS and IG on my LM7 Silverado. They trap a lot of dirt and rubbish coming from the sides of the intake and the foam blocks prevent them from coming out.

The rusty sensor was the source of my P0332. With the old gaskets luckily I've haven't gotten a P0171/P0174 yet.
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