How long did it take?......window motor failure

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My drivers side window has been acting a bit funny, sounding like it is struggling, and taking longer to open and shut than the passenger side, but not always, often it is just a bit slower than passenger side.

I am fairly sure it is not a wiring/connector/switch issue.

Was just wondering how long others might have observed since they first noticed the motor getting weak, and total unresponsive failure.

Need to budget time and money for attending to this.
 
I noticed this with the rear windows that zip up and down in lightning speed. Since they're hardly used. Now when I want to vent the cabin I lower the rear windows and try to use the front ones when only necessary. Spraying the rubber window channels with silicone spray helped but be careful since it can stain the black trim around it.
 
Same on mine...

There's a service bulletin out on my car for the driver's door window motor, but not any of the other doors. Apparently the rivets tear out of it.

It has been slow since the first year of ownership. I've greased it twice and gotten it to last 7 years, but it is noticeably slower.
 
My 13 civic driver window made it just a hair past 63k miles and one 37 degree morning in Virginia at a Hardee's drive thru it didn't go back up...I was conviently just outside of my warranty so I had to go shell out $180 at a local shop to have it fixed. I'm a country boy so I prefer window down to a/c and probably too much use caused it
 
It's probably not the motor, sounds like the window regulator. Sometimes you can take the door apart and clean the grooves that the window goes up and and down in, that sometimes gets dirty and that slows the window from going up and down.
 
The passenger front window on my Camry was making noise and started to get a little stuck sometimes. So I unplugged the switch to it, I just don't use it.

Maybe someday I'll fix it.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
It's probably not the motor, sounds like the window regulator. Sometimes you can take the door apart and clean the grooves that the window goes up and and down in, that sometimes gets dirty and that slows the window from going up and down.


+1, do maintenance.

A) Check your rubber molding, too. The "glass run" (factory name) on this era Corolla and Camry are known to tear. If ok, still lube it w/Sil-Glyde or similar. Then go do your other window/door/trunk/sunroof gaskets. And do this annually.

B) Another cause is the glass getting loose in the regulator. It then cants fore or aft and drags. Often, re-aligning it and re-tightening is all you need to do.
 
On the 528e, I can still get the window to work if I beat hard enough on the right spot on the door panel. It is either a bad connection or a sticky brush. I can fix it with a mini maul.
grin2.gif


The Rat has roll ups that work perfectly
 
I thought my drivers window was going to die on my Buick going extremely slow and it's apparently a common failure point, but I lubed it up good with 20% silicone and it's been fine for almost 2 years.

I am amazed how much difference it made
 
Binding could certainly be an issue. the window pulled out from the C channel many years ago and My fix, meant to be temporary and fixed correctly later, well later turned into never, and that was nearly a decade ago.

Some of that 'temporary', included duct tape.

I'll get in there and inspect it before clicking place order on a new window motor.

Thanks for the replies and input.
 
If nothing is broke or you just want to help prevent failure and have faster winowd in the bargain this is a good answer.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-CS100-6-Cotton-...long+wood+qtips

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Sil...=silicone+paste

Put the window all the way down and run a long swab dipped in silicone paste in the channel seal be sure to get down into the channels on the side of the glass.
inside the door.
After a few operations it will speed up and cause less wear on the motor and regulator, I do mine before and after winter or twice a year.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
My f250 uses a gear with a rubber shock absorber.the dr side one lasted 27 yrs.pass is still original. A new gear is $20 and took about 20 minutes to replace


Huge difference between those old "scissor" regulators, and later sliders with the wire. Those old Fords you could get a gear kit (with the 3 plugs) and fix it 90% of the time.
 
What make of car and how old is it? I would check the rubber track that the window slides in. After time the rubber can get hard and slow down the window.

On my 94 accord the fix was to cut the rubber that is behind the door panel with a box cutter. You need to remove the door panel first. After that the windows worked like new.

In periodically sprayed silicone spray on that rubber twice a year.
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Originally Posted By: sw99
I like roll up windows...


Me too!


I haven't had a roll up window since the 80's. Kinda hard to roll down the passenger window with a roll up, lot easier when it's a power window.
 
So true but the manual hand cranks tend to last much longer. We are becoming slaves to convenience these days.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Originally Posted By: sw99
I like roll up windows...


Me too!


I haven't had a roll up window since the 80's. Kinda hard to roll down the passenger window with a roll up, lot easier when it's a power window.


The amount of times I have to do that is minuscule. My driver's window is used 99.9999% of the time. For the past 40+ years of driving it's been manual crank windows. Now my wife is a different story
lol.gif
.

Whimsey
 
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