Originally Posted By: kohnen
Gents,
As engines get older, they start to consume oil. I think this is typically because of piston, piston ring, and cylinder wear.
If so, is there an oil & filter combination that would prevent this wear and keep an engine from burning oil?
I believe that the whole point of motor oil is to prevent ALL metal to metal contact. So, if I use a bypass filter too (I'm thinking a Microgreen filter) that filters down to a few microns, there should be almost no wear.
Am I missing anything in my thinking?
(Sorry, I didn't know if this belongs in an oil thread or a filter thread.)
You can't stop an old engine from burning oil once it starts to wear out, all you can do is reduce the wear factors.
The first thing is to make sure that the CCV (Crank Case Vent) system does not block, as it will push oil past the rings and oil seals if it does. If you use a good oil that has enough detergents and change it often enough, a fouled up CCV is unlikely.
The second thing to pay attention to is fuel quality and injector spray patterns. If you use carp fuel and get gummed up injectors it will result in deposits that can damage both the valve guide oil seals and the rings. I use fairly good quality fuel and a can of Liqui Moly direct feed injection cleaner (Every service interval).
Using a major brand full synthetic will help keep the rings clean and Shell Ultra or Mobil 1 are probably the best oils for cleaning.
As an engine block ages, the bearings wear which can cause a slight drop in oil pressure, so it often makes sense to move up a grade from the OEM one. For example if you have a new petrol car that has an 0w20 OEM recommendation, move up to an 0w30 once the oil consumption rate starts to increase.
It can also help to beef up the anti wear additives with a older block by using a major brand oil additive like Liqui Moly Ceratec every OCI.
Those are the main reasons why I use Shell Ultra (Same as Penn Ultra Euro) 5w40 and half a can of Ceratec every OCI. I also use LM Diesel Purge to fill up the fuel filter housing when fitting a new element in my old TDI.
As regards filters, OEM, Bosch or Mann, but only if stamped made in Germany. It also helps not to change filters before the recommended max interval unless you have a very good reason why. Dirty filters are more efficient, unless they are either a new synthetic media type or are part of a dual filter bypass system.
There might be a case for using a major brand long life oil filter, but there never is a case for using a non OEM standard air filter. The washable oiled or foam ones are a disaster area.
