ceramic vs semi metallic brake pads

[nthach]

There's no such thing as a 100% "ceramic" brake pad - brake friction is a mix of fibers, metal and ceramic powder, rubber, lubricants and resin. The OEM-specified material will work a majority of the time.

Making sure the sliding surfaces and caliper hardware is in proper shape is also vital.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: steveh
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I prefer to hear real world results about specific pads because semi metallic vs ceramic are almost nothing but marketing words these days.

I've had ceramics that were great and stopped great with low dust and I've had ones that were just okay and dusted. I could say pretty much the same for semi metallic but I've never really had an issue with noise.
How about some real world results on oil filters instead of FRAM marketing words 24/7.



I think you're in the wrong thread champ

 

[wtd]

I put ceramic pads on my 92 Cavalier the last time I changed pads and they don't feel as if they stop the car as well as the semi-metallic pads I used before. I also installed new rotors at this time.

Wayne

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: WillsYoda
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Akebono ProACT


+1 These are great, and are OEM for some Toyotas.


I am thinking about putting these on my Jeep. $100 front and rear though. Lol.

 

[badtlc]

I haven't seen any evidence ceramic stop better than semi-metallic. I investigated Wagner products just a few weeks ago and it seemed like the cheapo line (quickstop) SM was their best stopping pad, not the more expensive ceramic thermoquiets.

 

[BigD1]

I just went back and forth with choosing ceramic or semi-metallic for my Volvo. I ended up buying the Centric 125 series rotors, and the Centric Posi Quiet semi-metallic brake pads. Centric says the semi-metallic have more friction than the ceramic pads, and that's what I prefer.

 

[Donald]

The one thing to know is that there is no industry standard for semi-metallic or ceramic. The manufacturer can make brake pads with a little or a lot of either material.

I would buy a top brand in brake pads such as Akebono and then decide semi-metallic or ceramic.

Spend your money on high quality pads and good quality rotors.

 

[camrydriver111]

Originally Posted By: wtd
I put ceramic pads on my 92 Cavalier the last time I changed pads and they don't feel as if they stop the car as well as the semi-metallic pads I used before. I also installed new rotors at this time.

Wayne


Originally Posted By: badtlc
I haven't seen any evidence ceramic stop better than semi-metallic. I investigated Wagner products just a few weeks ago and it seemed like the cheapo line (quickstop) SM was their best stopping pad, not the more expensive ceramic thermoquiets.


Originally Posted By: BigD1
Centric says the semi-metallic have more friction than the ceramic pads, and that's what I prefer.


I don't think ceramics are supposed to stop as well. They are supposed to last longer. It's always give and take, and you can't have both.

I think that's why Europeans put semi-metallic pads on theirs cars, because they value performance over lowering maintenance costs.

 

[Traction]

The best brake pads are usually the noisiest, and dirty ones! Never see clean wheels on a car capable of autobahn speeds.

 

[dblshock]

I have the thermoquiets, very noisey, now they started creeking at parking lot speeds...35k

 

[Bgallagher]

Originally Posted By: pdxglocker9mm
I just put ceramic pads on two of my vehicles they are a afrermarket but seem decent quality. I got them off ebay Callahan brake parts sold by brake over stock a shell company really because they are actually Powerstop pads.
I got rotors too.
For the vibe 2005 it was 56 bucks for solid rotors and pads
For the sierra 2008 it was 89 dollars for solid rotors and pads
This was the front only on both vehicles because they have rear drums
I clocked the rotors using a dial indicator to get minimal run out which was about 0.0005" max on the vibe and 0.0007" max on the truck. Since less than 0.001" is the spec i shoot for. (some say less than 0.003" max ok) i feel confident i did my part to have a pulsation free brake job. They seem good so far. one reason i went with the callahans is that they made a good case for their rotors being heftier than the run of the mill junk. I must say i was impressed with the construction of the rotors. They are certainly heavy and machined well. The vibe has 90k and had warped rotors second set of pads.
The sierra has only 28k but got into some road salt and or a trip to the beach and the rotors were rusted beyond the ability to refinish.
For the price i would definately go with rotors and pads again if i ever need to do brakes on something.
I also flushed the brake system on both and cleaned and adjusted thd rear drums. I should be good to go for a while.




Did Tommy Boy sell you the parts?

 

[circuitsmith]

I stick with OEM pads and disks if they worked well and lasted.
Eliminates the guesswork and risk.

However, the first two sets of OEM rotors on my '88 Accord would warp at ~30K miles.
I'd get them resurfaced then replace the next time they'd warp.
They also sometimes groaned after a few seconds of high speed (60+ mph) braking.
Finally got aftermarket (I forget what brand) for the third set.
Those performed much better and didn't warp for the rest of the time I had the car, ~60K miles.

 

[nthach]

Originally Posted By: camrydriver111


I think that's why Europeans put semi-metallic pads on theirs cars, because they value performance over lowering maintenance costs.


A lot of that has to do with ECE90, and brake feel. Toyota uses E-spec pads on most RWD Lexus models. Wagner supposedly boxes up Ferodo pads for European applications in the QuickStop line, I was looking at the stock at the local parts house and there were a few that said Made in UK or European Application - Pads from Europe on the box.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Pads are like ice cream, more than one million flavors!

I have had semi metallics that were quiet and nearly dust free, and others that ate rotors like candy. I have used "ceramics' that squealed and dusted the wheels.

As many here have noted the word "ceramic" has become a marketing buzzword, not as meaningful as some think. Learn the letter codes right on the pads to determine friction rating and fade resistance.

And finally, don't confuse a rotor problem with a pad issue. Iron is iron...

 

[JustinH]

There was a writeup online about how this company appeared on ebay.

There are a couple other ones that sell brake packages for very cheap.

Mine as well were powerstop pads and rotors. They worked fine for my vehicles. I think some of these companies offer better products than you would get over the counter at advance auto parts or autozone. Not quite OEM quality but ok.

Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Originally Posted By: pdxglocker9mm
I just put ceramic pads on two of my vehicles they are a afrermarket but seem decent quality. I got them off ebay Callahan brake parts sold by brake over stock a shell company really because they are actually Powerstop pads.
I got rotors too.
For the vibe 2005 it was 56 bucks for solid rotors and pads
For the sierra 2008 it was 89 dollars for solid rotors and pads
This was the front only on both vehicles because they have rear drums
I clocked the rotors using a dial indicator to get minimal run out which was about 0.0005" max on the vibe and 0.0007" max on the truck. Since less than 0.001" is the spec i shoot for. (some say less than 0.003" max ok) i feel confident i did my part to have a pulsation free brake job. They seem good so far. one reason i went with the callahans is that they made a good case for their rotors being heftier than the run of the mill junk. I must say i was impressed with the construction of the rotors. They are certainly heavy and machined well. The vibe has 90k and had warped rotors second set of pads.
The sierra has only 28k but got into some road salt and or a trip to the beach and the rotors were rusted beyond the ability to refinish.
For the price i would definately go with rotors and pads again if i ever need to do brakes on something.
I also flushed the brake system on both and cleaned and adjusted thd rear drums. I should be good to go for a while.




Did Tommy Boy sell you the parts?

 

[artificialist]

I'm not sure how much noise is caused by using semi-metallic or ceramic friction material, but there is another factor. Different brake pads often have different noise reduction devices between the pads and rotors. On some cheap brake pads, you have to reuse the old noise reduction devices off your factory brake pads, whereas more expensive ones already have anti-noise devices already installed.

Sometimes if your car is not moving, but you get noise when you step on the brake pedal, it can mean failing calipers or caliper slides. I often replaced caliper slides, but only once did I have to replace calipers.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
I'm not sure how much noise is caused by using semi-metallic or ceramic friction material, but there is another factor. Different brake pads often have different noise reduction devices between the pads and rotors. On some cheap brake pads, you have to reuse the old noise reduction devices off your factory brake pads, whereas more expensive ones already have anti-noise devices already installed.

Sometimes if your car is not moving, but you get noise when you step on the brake pedal, it can mean failing calipers or caliper slides. I often replaced caliper slides, but only once did I have to replace calipers.

I'm sure you meant between the pad and the caliper piston.

 

[SubLGT]

http://www.tirereview.com/choosing-the-right-brake-pad-for-the-right-customer/

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I'm not sure how much noise is caused by using semi-metallic or ceramic friction material, but there is another factor. Different brake pads often have different noise reduction devices between the pads and rotors. On some cheap brake pads, you have to reuse the old noise reduction devices off your factory brake pads, whereas more expensive ones already have anti-noise devices already installed.

Sometimes if your car is not moving, but you get noise when you step on the brake pedal, it can mean failing calipers or caliper slides. I often replaced caliper slides, but only once did I have to replace calipers.

I'm sure you meant between the pad and the caliper piston.

You are correct. I don't know why I made that mistake.