I think someone told me a lie...not sure.

[BuickGirl]

Someone told me not to use synthetic motor oils in my car, which is a 1993 Buick Park Avenue Ultra because these engines were not designed for use with synthetic oil and even said something along the lines of synthetic oils not existing back then. I know I was a kid in 1993 so I don't recall exactly whether it was around or not, but I thought it was. They told me that synthetic oil would mess up the seals in my engine. For some reason I am just not believing that. In a nice way, I felt like telling them how full of it they were, LOL. This same person also said it didn't matter what kind of oil and filter you used because they all do the same thing. Meaning there is no difference between the cheapest filters and cheapest oils because you change them every 3000 miles. Again, I also felt like telling them they were full of it. I get their principle on oil and filters serving a purpose, but I am pretty sure that using better quality oil and filter will make the car last longer versus using some cheap $1 Walmart or Dollar store garbage.

 

[crazyoildude]

Welcome to bitog..
5w30 pennzoil yellow bottle and an ultra filter would be my choice for that engine. I have seen engines leak when changing over to synthetic after years of dino use.

 

[AKhan87]

walmart carries $1 oils? I had no idea, if your referring to SuperTech, its a fine oil.

but all in all, it doesn't really matter what motor oil you use in your car, as long as it carries the proper certifications.

but at 3000 miles oil change interval, the more expensive synthetics would be a waste, I would purchase the lowest cost motor oil with proper certifications and run it at least 5000 miles in your car, 3000 is just too short in my opinion.

 

[Thebimmerfan]

Some of the things they told you are not completely lies...Synthetic oils even existing in the beginning of the 90s, were much less common, we were using oils like Castrol GTX 15W-40 (dino) which was a real star back then. I remember in the 80s when I was a kid some people even were still using some monogrades (W30, W40).
My general imression is that in some older cars (pre 1998) when synthetic oils are used, as this type of oils are slicker (most synthetics are energy conserving which makes them more "slippery") synthetics tend to evacuate the hydraulic lifters faster, resulting in a noisier engine. I think that's the reason why many of the guys/galls driving retro stuff and used to dino oils are not happy when changing to synthetic.
Synthetic oils are also known to have better detergent properties, which carries the risk of cleaning some varnish deposits, that were impeding some leaks, which can lead to a leaky engine.

 

[RooflessVW]

I think some PYB or VWB and a Fram ToughGuard would be awesome for a 5k OCI.

HM oil wouldn't hurt, but may not benefit you either.

 

[raytseng]

well, on the other hand, your car is now 23 years old, so whatever worked for 23years just keep doing whatever you're doing. How much longer are you expecting as a "lifetime", and what "benefit" are you trying to acheive by changing now 23years later?

It's like telling a 80year old to stop eating mcdonalds and stop smoking cigarettes. Sure it may help, but it's not already dead, whatever worked did fine. You cannot roll back the clock to take a do over on it.

 

[eljefino]

Think of synthetic oil as distilled water, yeah you could water your yard with it and it won't scale up your hose nozzle.

It's just a more perfect implementation of the target goals. It won't wreck your car. Imagine being able to draft an army of all 6'0" guys who wore size 11 boots-- you'd have an easier time coming up with uniforms but they'd all do the job the same.

Jeez, look at pennzoil platinum. They have more natural gas than they know what to do with, it's hard to transport, so they magically turn it into liquid which is way too fancy to use for diesel fuel, so it becomes motor oil base.

 

[Nick1994]

I'll try to break it down pretty simple.

1. There's no way synthetic oil will harm your engine at all.
2.There are no engines that are designed to not use synthetic oil. Also synthetic has been around since at least the 70s.
3. You can switch to synthetic and back as much as you'd like. No harm there.
4. They even make synthetic blend oil! This must blow some people's minds who don't know about oil when they hear about that!
5. Thicker oil isn't always better. Always use what the manufacturer recommends.
6. Yes, a synthetic oil might make your car start leaking more oil. It will NOT cause leaks. Synthetic oils are good at cleaning, and they may clean up somewhere where a pre-existing oil leak is, and it might leak more. Maybe not.
7. To be truthful, it doesn't matter that much which oil brand you use. Some are better at certain things such as longer distances between the oil needing changed, oil burning, oil leaking, each have their own benefits. But Walmart SuperTech oil is good stuff, as is the high dollar Amsoil brands. You might be able to squeak out another mile or two out of an engine by going with a boutique oil like Amsoil. As for the oil filter, do some research (we have an oil filter section here) and make an informed decision on what you want/need in an oil filter. The $3 Fram filters do just fine, but the $9 Fram Ultras filter much better and can go longer between needing to be changed. But neither one will exactly make your car go an extra 100,000 miles. Now I wouldn't go out and buy the super Chinese cheap filters though, as long as it's decent is all that matters.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

I don't know for sure if you were lied to; some people just don't know better or care. I have been driving Buicks (with the same basic engine you have) since before your car was new. I have been using synthetic oil in my engines (probably) since before you were born. Amsoil (a synthetic oil manufacturer) was first marketed in (I think) about 1972. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amsoil Oh, and my cars leak nothing. My college aged son will tell you I'm OCD about spots on the concrete driveway.

Synthetic oil offers several advantages over conventional oil; Synthetic oil is used as a substitute for lubricant refined from petroleum when operating in extremes of temperature, because, in general, it provides superior mechanical and chemical properties to those found in traditional mineral oils. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

Among the advantages to synthetic oil is its longevity. Mobil1, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Castrol and other manufacturers of synthetic oil make oils that are designed to go 10-15K without changing the oil. I run Amsoil 5W30 synthetic in my wife's 2004 Buick Lesabre (with the same basic engine as your Park Avenue Ultra); I'm also running bypass oil filtration and doing used oil analysis, but I have 20K on the oil in her car and test lab report showing it is "suitable for continued use."

The "leakage" issue with synthetic oil comes from its superior lubricating and detergent qualities. Some older engines which may have been run on conventional oil for awhile may have accumulated sludge and varnish and have some stiff older seals. Drivers switching to synthetic on "high mileage" (over 75-100K) may have synthetic oil clean their engine to the point that these seals start leaking. But technology has given us a solution: ATP-205 reseal will condition and many times soften these seals and stop leaks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Leaks-8-Ounce-Bottle-New-Free-Shipping-/361284259916?hash=item541e38504c:g:TicAAOSwrklVOECS

The 1993 Buick Park Avenue Ultra came factory stock with a series I supercharged engine. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_V6_engine Notice the engines in the cars I drive are just a little further down the page than yours. This engine, in my opinion (and that of many others) is one of the best engines GM ever made. It has an all steel timing chain and gear set, excellent oil pressure, famously strong internal components, and the series II and III versions have an extensive array of aftermarket parts available used for racing: http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=cp-innovations

Oh, yeah,

 

[Kestas]

For a novice trying to sort out some myths, I think Nick did a good job of summing it up for you without getting bogged down with details.

 

[Dan55]

An interesting article from Consumer Reports on motor oils from the 90's. The 3000 mile oil change was disproven even back then. http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/xs11-info/articles/51-consumer-reportstruth-motor-oils-july-1996.html

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: BuickGirl
Someone told me not to use synthetic motor oils in my car, which is a 1993 Buick Park Avenue Ultra because these engines were not designed for use with synthetic oil and even said something along the lines of synthetic oils not existing back then. I know I was a kid in 1993 so I don't recall exactly whether it was around or not, but I thought it was. They told me that synthetic oil would mess up the seals in my engine. For some reason I am just not believing that. In a nice way, I felt like telling them how full of it they were, LOL. This same person also said it didn't matter what kind of oil and filter you used because they all do the same thing. Meaning there is no difference between the cheapest filters and cheapest oils because you change them every 3000 miles. Again, I also felt like telling them they were full of it. I get their principle on oil and filters serving a purpose, but I am pretty sure that using better quality oil and filter will make the car last longer versus using some cheap $1 Walmart or Dollar store garbage.


Yeah, whoever told you not to run synthetic in your car was full of it. Synthetic oils have been sold in the USA for over 40 years.

Yes, there is a difference between the cheapest and most expensive oils. Some you don't want to put in your engine at all. Stick to the major name brands of oils, such as Castrol, Mobil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc, and you'll be OK for 5000 mile oil changes, even on the conventional oils.

Can you tell us more about your car? Since it's an Ultra, I'm assuming it has the supercharged engine, which would make me recommend synthetic. If it has over 100k miles, I would recommend High Mileage oil. The 3800 engines back then called for 10w30 oil.

 

[aquariuscsm]

From owning several GM 3800's,my recommendation is Pennzoil conventional 10W30 and an AC Delco or Fram Tough Guard oil filter.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
For a novice trying to sort out some myths, I think Nick did a good job of summing it up for you without getting bogged down with details.


Welcome

The devil is in the detail. Thebimmerfan's response is more accurate in this IMO.

The vehicle is 23 years old, if it has had synthetic oil in it most of its life then use a quality syn.

If the vehicle has had conventional oil most of its life then use a quality conventional oil with correct grade and OEM approvals. Don't MESS with this despite good sincere intentions in offered advice by some. Use an OEM filter if it is still available and the cost is competitive.

BTW why change at this point in time ?

Do not be fooled or sucked into the syn is (or thin is) best hype that is often pushed here, some new comers here have achieved long engine mileage with 3000 mile OCIs using conventional oils. And BITOG can learn from newcomers.

Not worth the risk in this instance.

 

[mazdamonky]

+1 on Nick1994

Synthetic is a great choice for oil for pretty much any engine, especially when name brand companies like Mobil and Pennzoil have rebates making their synthetic oils cheaper than most conventionals. It will not harm your car in any way. All oils have specific guidlines they must meet, so if any oil has the API SN donut on the back of it, it should be a great oil.

Most cheap oils are perfectly fine for the average person. The Supertech oil at Walmart is what I would consider a stand out among cheap oils. It is an amazing oil in appearance based on its Additive packages and price. I would not hesitate to run it in anything.

As for using synthetic oil in your car, I would ask what kind of mileage is on your vehicle and if you have any leaks whatsoever. Synthetic oils are thought to be able to flow through holes and small openings better thus causing them to leak more. However they will not end up going through a hole that isn't there. Some people see higher consumption in the combustion chamber with synthetic also.

As for what I would use in your car, I would either use Supertech conventional in the factory recommended weight for normal 5k mile or 6 month oil changes, Supertech synthetic for 7500 mile or one year oil changes, a good high mileage oil if you experience leaks, or any bigger name brand for 10k mile or one year oil changes as they tend to have more stout add packs. It all depends on what you want out of your oil.

 

[HerrStig]

Synthetic oil was employed by the Germans in WWII. They were short of conventional oil and the synthetic allowed tanks to start in the cold Russian winter.

 

[Noey]

I think my esteemed colleagues have missed an important..perhaps THE most important...part of the issue here for you:


Do you actually get under there and change the oil yourself?

Everyone has answered your primary question...you do not need synthetic, I actually believe that using a syn in an older car that has lived it's life on regular oil can harm the seals and cause them to leak...

Getting back to my question, if you don't crawl under the car yourself to change the oil, the most important thing you can do is MAKE SURE the miscreant who actually does do the work... uses the correct oil viscosity AND the RIGHT FILTER APPLICATION. This is particularly important with an older car, where the filter probably isn't sitting on the shelf already and the guy just wants to get the car out and move onto the next one. The best way to do this is to BRING YOUR OWN FILTER...frankly, any brand is fine...just check the book to make sure it's the right one. And TELL the guy what weight you want based on the owner's manual.

5000 miles for an oil change is fine, too.

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
From owning several GM 3800's,my recommendation is Pennzoil conventional 10W30 and an AC Delco or Fram Tough Guard oil filter.


This +1.

Simple, clear advice and will work very well with your Buick.

 

[Benzadmiral]

Originally Posted By: BuickGirl
Someone told me not to use synthetic motor oils in my car, which is a 1993 Buick Park Avenue Ultra because these engines were not designed for use with synthetic oil and even said something along the lines of synthetic oils not existing back then. I know I was a kid in 1993 so I don't recall exactly whether it was around or not, but I thought it was. They told me that synthetic oil would mess up the seals in my engine. For some reason I am just not believing that. In a nice way, I felt like telling them how full of it they were, LOL. This same person also said it didn't matter what kind of oil and filter you used because they all do the same thing. Meaning there is no difference between the cheapest filters and cheapest oils because you change them every 3000 miles. Again, I also felt like telling them they were full of it. I get their principle on oil and filters serving a purpose, but I am pretty sure that using better quality oil and filter will make the car last longer versus using some cheap $1 Walmart or Dollar store garbage.

BuickGirl,

You're quite right to ask here, whether your informant was actually lying (meaning deliberately trying to mislead you) or, more likely, was just badly misinformed. What the above posters said is the straight stuff. Congratulations on your car; I had the 2003 version of the Park Avenue for almost 7 years, drove it with pleasure from 44K to over 100K miles, and was proud to be seen in it. Enjoy.

 

[Bud_One]

Originally Posted By: Danno
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
From owning several GM 3800's,my recommendation is Pennzoil conventional 10W30 and an AC Delco or Fram Tough Guard oil filter.


This +1.



+2