which loaner ball joint press

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I am about to replace the ball joints on a 03 ram 1500 2wd. I don't really want to buy a ball joint press and looking to borrow one from advance auto, autozone, or orielly's. I've heard some of the cheaper ones bend or don't have the correct adapters for the dodge... anyone here do this job before and which press did you use or which one should I avoid . the HF ones seem to have 50/50 reviews--either the best or or worst the customer ever saw
 
Originally Posted By: KingCake
They're all the same chinese part.


This. They are literally the same tool with a different name and part number. Even HF carries the stuff. When used correctly, they'll do fine.

My only advice is to thoroughly check the tool prior to renting it to cover your rear (CYA). These get the tar beaten out of them with air wrenches, hammers etc. and sometimes the parts guys dont look them over when the customer returns them.
 
I tried to do ball joints in an 04 Dodge.between the joints breaking the tool 2x and the worn out bushings we opted to replace the whole arm.those joints are a very tight press fit into the arm.not like a GM or ford
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
I tried to do ball joints in an 04 Dodge.between the joints breaking the tool 2x and the worn out bushings we opted to replace the whole arm.those joints are a very tight press fit into the arm.not like a GM or ford


I have to agree with this.

Nowadays it may only cost a few extra bucks to buy an entire control arm that has new bushings and a ball joint.
 
i am replacing the whole upper arm, but replacing the ball joints on the lower arms
 
Originally Posted By: joel95ex
i am replacing the whole upper arm, but replacing the ball joints on the lower arms


If the Ram is anything like my old F150, I had the toughest time removing the ball joint from the lower control arm. The truck had around 75k miles on it at that point so time, rust, pressure, etc.. all had found a way to more or less weld it into place.

Initially I started out with a "OTC Ball Joint Press" from AutoZone, but it didn't have a spacer ring that was deep enough to clear the lower ball joint. I had to go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their higher end ball joint kits that came with a bunch of different spacers and that worked.

The truck was out of service for 2 days while I tried to figure out how to get out of the mess. Had I opted to simply buy replacement control arms, the job would have been done in a day (including the alignment done by a shop).

After that whole ordeal, I would suggest a few things:

1. Don't use a pickle fork to separate a ball joint. It just gets really noisy and you get tired easily and doesn't do a particularly good job in the end.

2. Get some proper pitman arm pullers in various sizes. It's so much easier to ratchet something off than to bang away with a hammer.

3. Don't be afraid to use heat, especially if you're just going to be replacing parts.

4. Kroil or PB Blaster on everything you're going to be separating a week before you start the job.
 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45

Initially I started out with a "OTC Ball Joint Press" from AutoZone, but it didn't have a spacer ring that was deep enough to clear the lower ball joint.


I may or may not have the same ball joint press that you used, I don't know. I do know that I did NOT buy it from Autozone.
Anyway, I've pressed ball joints out of Ford trucks dozens of times with this set and I made the spacer ring out of some extra pipe that I had around the shop. I simply cut it with a band saw and it was ready to use and it probably didn't take me more than 10 minutes. I remember that the first time I used it, I called OTC to comment on their missing part(s) needed for Ford ball joints and they just commented that I had an older ball joint, but didn't say anything about any parts that they would sell to make the set more complete. Whatever, I guess I wouldn't have purchased it after fabbing up the needed spacer anyway.
 
The ones in store are not the same as the harbor freight one. The harbor freight one is pure garbage. My mechanic went through 4 of them doing 4 ball joints. They all bent and turned into a banana. The O'Reillys one he bought is still going strong.
 
I've used the bigger set from Advance for several jobs. I think it's made in Taiwan, if memory serves.

Anyway, it's worked well for me. The bigger set has way more adapters.
 
The Astro C frame is weak, not the best for heavier joints like those found on pickups.
The OTC C frame is still made in the USA and strong, the adapters may be Chinese or Taiwan but they hold up okay. The OTC set I bought years ago only the plastic case was made in China.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
The Astro C frame is weak, not the best for heavier joints like those found on pickups.


Do the threads strip out, or does it break in half ?
 
Its like a vise, the cheap ones are just low grade pig iron and break, the others have too much of something else in the mix and they too soft and bend.
A high quality one will hold up for decades but cost some serious money. The OTC frame is very good and uses a high quality machine cut screw.
Its the same exact frame as the Ford Rotunda OE tool also made by OTC/SPX/Bosch, it is really a good buy. The adapters are not as important, I have made some adapters with black iron pipe.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Its like a vise, the cheap ones are just low grade pig iron and break, the others have too much of something else in the mix and they too soft and bend.
A high quality one will hold up for decades but cost some serious money. The OTC frame is very good and uses a high quality machine cut screw.
Its the same exact frame as the Ford Rotunda OE tool also made by OTC/SPX/Bosch, it is really a good buy. The adapters are not as important, I have made some adapters with black iron pipe.





i wish the snap-on one wasn't so expensive---it looks nice
 
The SO is great as is the Klann but they cost serious $$$. I don't do enough press in joints joints anymore to justify the cost.
I have the OTC with the adapter for 4x4 and most other press in joints but a lot of joints are bolted in or its easier and many times cheaper just to replace the sheet metal control arm and get new bushings in the deal.
Cast iron arms for torsion bar suspension and expensive aluminum arms get rebuilt.
 
The majority of stuff over here has ball joint that aren't pressed, but bolted to the arm(s). Threads on here hint toward pressed in joint being the norm in NA - makes me wonder if it wouldn't be quicker or easier to replace the whole arm (assuming your come with bushes & joints already fitted)

I think there should be more universal standards among manufacturers, Japanese screwdrivers and E sockets don't pop up often but you need them when they do, and bolt head sizes should be universalised too so that theyre all the same size.
(I'm annoyed at Honda and Mercedes after pulling apart trim and ignition bits for a couple of days!)
 
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