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Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? #4067056 04/12/16 11:12 PM
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TheLoneRanger Offline OP
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I replaced an EGR exhaust manifold fitting recently, and used copper antiseize. The copper had a max temperture rating of 1200*F, and the nickle had no temp rating on the tube at all. That's why I used the copper. Did I do wrong?


Some days you eat the bear, some days the bear eats you.....
Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067078 04/12/16 11:58 PM
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That is what I would have used.


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Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067113 04/13/16 01:50 AM
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wirelessF Offline
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A lot of the O2 sensors come with a packet or is pre-applied with copper antiseize. Copper is definitely the correct app for exhaust fasteners.

Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067165 04/13/16 04:59 AM
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I have a 1996 Ford Taurus Sedan OHV engin that needs to have the EGR valve replaced but getting that sucker off without stripping the nut or breaking it off seems impossible. Used alot of penetrating fluid but still no success and have been told to put some heat to it but I am a little to nervous to go that route as I might burn the whole garage down with my luck.

Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: mctmatt] #4067219 04/13/16 06:56 AM
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Kira Online Content
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I thought the temperature applications for anti-seize products INCREASED from regular to Copper to Nickel.

That's the meat of my question. Is nickel for higher temps than copper? Kira

Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067233 04/13/16 07:12 AM
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137_Trenton Offline
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The nickel ones, going from memory, are good above 2000 Fahrenheit I believe. The nickel anti seize is definitely a good choice for exhaust parts. In the end though, it probably wont make much difference which one you used.

Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067240 04/13/16 07:20 AM
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NGK O2 sensors come with a packet of copper.

Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: Kira] #4067309 04/13/16 08:59 AM
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Trav Offline
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Originally Posted By: Kira
I thought the temperature applications for anti-seize products INCREASED from regular to Copper to Nickel.

That's the meat of my question. Is nickel for higher temps than copper? Kira


This should clear things up.

http://depacproducts.net/anti.html


ASE L1, Master. Deutsch Meisterbrief.
Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067321 04/13/16 09:21 AM
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I use both interchangeably. Have one can of each. Whichever is closer is the one that gets used.

Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067344 04/13/16 09:58 AM
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I bought a Tub of CRC Nickel Anti Seize Good for 2400 and put it on everything I work on in my XJ, with no worries about material corrosion(stainless, Aluminum..etc).


Last edited by thescreensavers; 04/13/16 10:01 AM.

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Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067575 04/13/16 03:25 PM
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Back in the day, when I was changing plugs in our Lycoming O-320 engines, the book said only use copper anti seize. For myself, I've had a 4oz. can of nickel anti seize for 40 years. Still some left. Works for me.


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Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067781 04/13/16 08:21 PM
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I think I read Nickel has toxicity. So maybe that is why it isn't as common.......Kind of like you don't see Kroil all over the place........it is Industry/Industrial type products.



I also think copper may not be as forgiving as the regular silver stuff.

Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: TheLoneRanger] #4067820 04/13/16 09:13 PM
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Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: mjoekingz28] #4067862 04/13/16 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
I think I read Nickel has toxicity. So maybe that is why it isn't as common.......Kind of like you don't see Kroil all over the place........it is Industry/Industrial type products.



I also think copper may not be as forgiving as the regular silver stuff.


Copper toxicity is a real thing as well and a nasty one at that


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Re: Copper vs Nickle Anti-Seize? [Re: mctmatt] #4068982 04/14/16 11:22 PM
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TheLoneRanger Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: mctmatt
I have a 1996 Ford Taurus Sedan OHV engin that needs to have the EGR valve replaced but getting that sucker off without stripping the nut or breaking it off seems impossible. Used alot of penetrating fluid but still no success and have been told to put some heat to it but I am a little to nervous to go that route as I might burn the whole garage down with my luck.

My EGR fitting was on an Explorer manifold, and was one of the most difficult I've encountered. Soaked it with penetrant for three days while stripping the top/inside fitting. Finally used a 3' breaker bar and socket with a 5' water pipe attached. While applying force to the pipe I gave the breaker bar a sharp rap with a heavy hammer and it broke loose. I had heated it with a propane torch previously.

That's why I used antiseize on the new fitting....


Some days you eat the bear, some days the bear eats you.....
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