Washer agitator fins cracked; can they be repaired
- Thread starter Vikas
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Scratch both sides of break with 36 grit for maximum mechanical tooth. Wipe with rubbing alcohol.
Get a lightweight fiberglass less than 4 oz per square yard( the stuff sold in HD and other box stores is 8 oz or heavier). Apply 'Amazing Goop' to surface, apply round patch of fiberglass to surface and push it into the 'goop' and it should turn clear as it wicks in the 'goop'.
More than one layer of fiberglass can be used. It will remain flexible, it will be strong, it will adhere. How long it will remain that way is unknown.
Time is of the essence when saturating the fiberglass. Lower temperatures will slow the thickening of the goop, allowing more time for saturation of the fiberglass fibers. Full saturation should have the fiberglass turn transparent. but it will still be functional if the weave still shows.
I have used this method on a 5 gallon camp style sun shower whose handle ripped off. It has held for 5 months now regularly supporting 40+ pounds of hot water, upto 120F, and seeing lots of UV light.
Get a lightweight fiberglass less than 4 oz per square yard( the stuff sold in HD and other box stores is 8 oz or heavier). Apply 'Amazing Goop' to surface, apply round patch of fiberglass to surface and push it into the 'goop' and it should turn clear as it wicks in the 'goop'.
More than one layer of fiberglass can be used. It will remain flexible, it will be strong, it will adhere. How long it will remain that way is unknown.
Time is of the essence when saturating the fiberglass. Lower temperatures will slow the thickening of the goop, allowing more time for saturation of the fiberglass fibers. Full saturation should have the fiberglass turn transparent. but it will still be functional if the weave still shows.
I have used this method on a 5 gallon camp style sun shower whose handle ripped off. It has held for 5 months now regularly supporting 40+ pounds of hot water, upto 120F, and seeing lots of UV light.
I cannot imagine a more stressful enough environment for a repair:
Flex, water, corrosive soap, and temperature swing. Aren't you an engineer? Or maybe the wrong kind and did not take materials science?
Flex, water, corrosive soap, and temperature swing. Aren't you an engineer? Or maybe the wrong kind and did not take materials science?
Shoe Goo failed when put to the test. Now gorilla tape is on the test. I am sure that is not going to work either. Once I confirm that, new part will be ordered.
Being an engineer means, means taking calculated risks; so I do not mind trying few approaches but you are right that given the environment it lives in and the stresses it has to withstand, it will be a miracle if it can be fixed.
Being an engineer means, means taking calculated risks; so I do not mind trying few approaches but you are right that given the environment it lives in and the stresses it has to withstand, it will be a miracle if it can be fixed.
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As you could have guessed, neither gorilla tape nor shoe goo worked. Anyway, the new OEM part got delivered yesterday and is now in. I guess it is OK to put $66 every 7 years in machine assuming the new one lasts at least another 7 year.
I still feel bad about throwing away the agitator but it is too big to stash somewhere without "boss" finding it out and then getting mad at me.
It would be great to try various methods of plastic welding on the fins and see which one could at least pass the finger test. Even after that though, they will most likely fail inside the washer.
I still feel bad about throwing away the agitator but it is too big to stash somewhere without "boss" finding it out and then getting mad at me.
It would be great to try various methods of plastic welding on the fins and see which one could at least pass the finger test. Even after that though, they will most likely fail inside the washer.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Anyway, the new OEM part got delivered yesterday and is now in. I guess it is OK to put $66 every 7 years in machine assuming the new one lasts at least another 7 year.
.
Ahhh, I can't deny it either, but I too am cheap, it's a specialty on BITOG.
Anyway, the new OEM part got delivered yesterday and is now in. I guess it is OK to put $66 every 7 years in machine assuming the new one lasts at least another 7 year.
.
Ahhh, I can't deny it either, but I too am cheap, it's a specialty on BITOG.
Originally Posted By: GiveMeAVowel
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Anyway, the new OEM part got delivered yesterday and is now in. I guess it is OK to put $66 every 7 years in machine assuming the new one lasts at least another 7 year.
.
Ahhh, I can't deny it either, but I too am cheap, it's a specialty on BITOG.
Nothing wrong with being frugal. However on Bitog it is some sort of bragging right it seems. Also terrible when folks put down someone who does not subscribe to frugal ways.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Anyway, the new OEM part got delivered yesterday and is now in. I guess it is OK to put $66 every 7 years in machine assuming the new one lasts at least another 7 year.
.
Ahhh, I can't deny it either, but I too am cheap, it's a specialty on BITOG.
Nothing wrong with being frugal. However on Bitog it is some sort of bragging right it seems. Also terrible when folks put down someone who does not subscribe to frugal ways.
Some people don't realize the value of time.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Donald
New agitator. Or new machine. Agitator machines are history. Not sold anymore. Front loaders are easier on your clothes.
+1.
If OP wanted to attempt a repair, my thought would be 2-part epoxy, but I doubt it would work. I think that stainless steel hardware drilled through the two sides of the cracked agitator would stabilize it, but would add a SUBSTANTIAL chance of damaging clothing.
Perhaps a set of thin stainless bars, drilled through each other and the agitator, then screwed together... Then dremeled down smooth, and then coated in a high temperature 2-part epoxy to make a smooth coating over it. And watched VERY carefully in the future...
New agitator. Or new machine. Agitator machines are history. Not sold anymore. Front loaders are easier on your clothes.
+1.
If OP wanted to attempt a repair, my thought would be 2-part epoxy, but I doubt it would work. I think that stainless steel hardware drilled through the two sides of the cracked agitator would stabilize it, but would add a SUBSTANTIAL chance of damaging clothing.
Perhaps a set of thin stainless bars, drilled through each other and the agitator, then screwed together... Then dremeled down smooth, and then coated in a high temperature 2-part epoxy to make a smooth coating over it. And watched VERY carefully in the future...
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: javacontour
Some people don't realize the value of time.
If OP is sitting at home and would be watching TV otherwise, what exactly is the value of time spent being a bump on a log?
A repair would save $100 at least temporarily. Not sure its doable, but...
Some people don't realize the value of time.
If OP is sitting at home and would be watching TV otherwise, what exactly is the value of time spent being a bump on a log?
A repair would save $100 at least temporarily. Not sure its doable, but...
And some don't realize a mad wife when washer is still not repaired...
JHZR2
Staff member
Doesnt make it an interesting repair question to discuss with like-minded folks on here.
Wife could facilitate the repair too... Women are empowered these days...
Wife could facilitate the repair too... Women are empowered these days...
I'm joking. But its best to spend the money to repair and get another 5-6 years use out of washer.
As my previous reply said the agitator is in. I will probably keep the part and try various cheap tricks on it but the repair can not have any edges as that will snag clothes. That drastically reduces options. I just have to be careful about watching any infomercial showing plastic repair where he bends the repaired part back and forth and it breaks at different spot rather than at the repaired seam!
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