Swap plastic Toyota oil filter for metal one?

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I know for my Tundra, some guys like to swap the plastic oil filter housing for the metal Venza one, p/n 15620-31060. The perforated tube has to be swapped between them because of the longer Tundra filter, but otherwise it's a straight swap. I bought one, and have yet to swap in.

Anyhow, I've been curious if the same part will swap into my 2.5L 2AR-FE. I looked a year ago and it seemed no one had tried. Today I had to do an oil change and so I compared the Venza metal one to my Camry plastic one. Call me crazy but it looks like a direct swap. The o-ring is in the same location, the tube appears to be the same length, it threads in.

I chickened out and did not install though. I also forgot to try inserting a filter, doah! However: it appears that the 2GR-FE and the 2AR-FE use the same oil filter (04152-YZZA1) so I'm not entirely sure why this can't be done.

Just an FYI, in case anyone out there wants to ditch the plastic oil filter housing.

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Many people don't like 'em on the basis of being plastic.

Also, if the prior owner (or shop) overtightened the canister, the plastic can round off a bit. As it is, my tool likes to get stuck onto the housing.
 
supton said:
However: it appears that the 2GR-FE and the 2AR-FE use the same oil filter (04152-YZZA1) so I'm not entirely sure why this can't be done.

If it takes the same filter and all the measurements and threads are the same then it will fit fine. Dry fit it next time to make sure it screws down all the way then put a filter in and run it.
I would feel better about having a metal cap than a plastic for sure if one is available.
 
Originally Posted By: Ethan1
How does the plastic one fail? Does it crack from heat cycles?

It's cracks from tourqing. Sometime dealerships over tighten the housing and it cracks during an oci
 
Oh what a feeling.

It never ceases to amaze me how so many seem to overlook the cheap little details, yet still believe a Toyota is a "Good" car. Isn't the whole the sum of it's parts, or for the brain washed, it doesn't matter?
 
Originally Posted By: Noey
Oh what a feeling.

It never ceases to amaze me how so many seem to overlook the cheap little details, yet still believe a Toyota is a "Good" car. Isn't the whole the sum of it's parts, or for the brain washed, it doesn't matter?


Says the DODO with a Fiesta...HA!

Originally Posted By: Noey
Hi all!

Glad to be here, hope you can help. I've just bought a '11 Ford Fiesta 5 speed, for short around town trips. 5w-20 recommendations? I wanted a full syn, but I have to admit to being a total dodo when it comes to today's high tech oils, so if you could also tell me why you're recommending what you are, i'd appreciate that, too!
 
OEM Toyota is like $25 I think.

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~cap~assy~oil~filter~15620-31060.html

Shipping isn't free there, but I waited until I wanted to buy rotors & pads for my Camry. I also got a bunch of crush washers and some brake pins for my Tundra, all small stuff. One big order. Maybe cheaper elsewhere, dunno, just saying that's where I got mine. [Actually it was $23.51 when I bought it back in November.]

Not that I have anything against Dorman.

I posted this also on Toyotanation, and over there they recommended to swap springs in the cap. I'm not sure that is necessary but it certainly wouldn't hurt. Just one comment from that forum.
 
Originally Posted By: Noey
Oh what a feeling.

It never ceases to amaze me how so many seem to overlook the cheap little details, yet still believe a Toyota is a "Good" car. Isn't the whole the sum of it's parts, or for the brain washed, it doesn't matter?


Dunno if you are just trolling or what, but AFAIK both of my plastic ones are still original ones. 10+ oil changes. Yeah I'd rather have metal but so far, I haven't seen it wear out.

If I wanted to gripe there are plenty of other plastic bits on this car to gripe about! Otherwise it's the basic hum-drum car that we wanted: stickshift, spacious, easy to service. I'll take one or two easy issues for something we don't mind driving.
 
I doubt it's just plain "plastic." My guess is that it's fiber reinforced nylon. I wouldn't worry about it unless it actually gives you problems.
 
I was curious about the metal cap for our Toyota as well once the free oil changes are up. I might have to try it!

I actually like the canister filters. Both the VW and Toyota have ones on the bottom and you can actually drain the housing before removal. Next to no mess.
 
if it works on a 2AR-FE please share, i dont feel like sifting through the chaff on other forums.
 
I believe the "plastic part" is a Thermo plastic nylon reinforced component. My Mazda oil cover had a torques spec of 25Lb/Ft +/-5?. I used a torque wrench and this is just snug and not real tight.
A HAM fisted person who calls themselves a mechanic can break or damage anything. Ed
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: supton
OEM Toyota is like $25 I think.

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~cap~assy~oil~filter~15620-31060.html

Shipping isn't free there, but I waited until I wanted to buy rotors & pads for my Camry. I also got a bunch of crush washers and some brake pins for my Tundra, all small stuff. One big order. Maybe cheaper elsewhere, dunno, just saying that's where I got mine. [Actually it was $23.51 when I bought it back in November.]

Not that I have anything against Dorman.

To be honest I never even looked at Toyota for a replacement...
Metal just seems better.

I posted this also on Toyotanation, and over there they recommended to swap springs in the cap. I'm not sure that is necessary but it certainly wouldn't hurt. Just one comment from that forum.
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
if it works on a 2AR-FE please share, i dont feel like sifting through the chaff on other forums.


Dunno, I was too chicken to try it. As soon as my cap breaks I'll find out.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I believe the "plastic part" is a Thermo plastic nylon reinforced component. My Mazda oil cover had a torques spec of 25Lb/Ft +/-5?. I used a torque wrench and this is just snug and not real tight.
A HAM fisted person who calls themselves a mechanic can break or damage anything. Ed


I've never bothered with a torque wrench. I just stop when it bottoms out.

My VW had a top-side mounted filter, and I always wanted to tighten it down, then back it out one turn. That o-ring imparts a huge amount of drag, and I doubt it could turn on its own. Never got up the courage to try it though.
 
It's amazing how many people think "tighter" means "won't leak" with o-ring seals. That o-ring was sealed when the housing was hand tight, the torque is to keep it from coming back off.

For reference Nylon is Thermoset plastics, not Thermoplastic. Thermoplastic by definition means that it becomes soft with heat. This is actually a good application for Nylon for engine duty, poor maintenance practices make it a questionable application.
 
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