One of the Exhaust manifold bolts on my truck broke and I need to remove the Manifold and repair it. What would work best to remove the studs and nuts?
Whats best to remove rusted exaust manifold bolts?
- Thread starter Trackrat73
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Acetylene torch, 6 point socket set, good vice grips and PB Blaster.
Most places would weld a nut or bolt to the stud? Then use heat from a acetylene torch.
OK I've got all that in the garage. Should I be soaking the bolts until I can get to it. I dont use the truck during the winter. Its a 2wd dually.
What type of vehicle and engine? There are some special tools from Wurth for Ford exhaust manifolds. I think they also do GM and FCA.
Wire brush the bolt head bases, then repeated PB blaster soaks over time.
My upper ball joints are threaded and known to need ridiculous torque to unthread. I did the dental pic/wirebrush thing along the seam to clear it, then a PB blaster every few days a before the special socket arrived.
When I leaned back, pulling on the breaker bar, I wound up on my back. The threads were wet with Pb blaster when I then unthreaded it by hand.
Very surprised.
My upper ball joints are threaded and known to need ridiculous torque to unthread. I did the dental pic/wirebrush thing along the seam to clear it, then a PB blaster every few days a before the special socket arrived.
When I leaned back, pulling on the breaker bar, I wound up on my back. The threads were wet with Pb blaster when I then unthreaded it by hand.
Very surprised.
'02 Chevy c3500 Silverado w/ the 8.1L gas motor
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Kroil: http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Pen...penetrating+oil
The KEY, like others have mentioned, is to allow soak time. Spray it on before going to bed at night and again in the am. Heat up what you wish to loosen, let it cool and spray again.
Read through some of the customer reviews. This stuff is $15-25 per can, but it is the BEST penetrating oil in the world. Label says "for Industrial Use Only," I've never seen it in a store; but I see it regularly in power plants and mining operations.
I was given 3 cans by a customer; and I gave one can away. The remaining two will probably last til I'm dead and my kids will wonder what it is.
The KEY, like others have mentioned, is to allow soak time. Spray it on before going to bed at night and again in the am. Heat up what you wish to loosen, let it cool and spray again.
Read through some of the customer reviews. This stuff is $15-25 per can, but it is the BEST penetrating oil in the world. Label says "for Industrial Use Only," I've never seen it in a store; but I see it regularly in power plants and mining operations.
I was given 3 cans by a customer; and I gave one can away. The remaining two will probably last til I'm dead and my kids will wonder what it is.
http://www.kanolabs.com/late/
If you decide on the AeroKroil..Two 13 oz cans for under $21 shipped. I am still on the two I bought about 5-6 years ago and I use it regularly.
But I really don't think I've ever had anything that PB wouldn't work on. I've never sprayed anything down with PB and had to come back and hit it with Kroil.
If you decide on the AeroKroil..Two 13 oz cans for under $21 shipped. I am still on the two I bought about 5-6 years ago and I use it regularly.
But I really don't think I've ever had anything that PB wouldn't work on. I've never sprayed anything down with PB and had to come back and hit it with Kroil.
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I wonder if there are incompatability issues- like with grease.
I now have WD rust release, Regular Kroil, and also Liquid Wrench.
So whatcha think. Spray all four on a fastener and get 4X the penetrant strength or get a chemistry bomb?
I could round up some atf and acetone to make it a nice, round experiment.
I now have WD rust release, Regular Kroil, and also Liquid Wrench.
So whatcha think. Spray all four on a fastener and get 4X the penetrant strength or get a chemistry bomb?
I could round up some atf and acetone to make it a nice, round experiment.
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