Kawasaki changed their oil recommendations

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Might just be looser and/ or worn engines then. Very hard to tell in this situation.

I use M1 10w30 in a 13 horse Honda powered pressure washer without any noticeable consumption. It is only on its 2nd oil change though. The first being the FF. Lol.
 
I see negligible oil use with the 0w40 M1. Once in a while when I start the JD I get a puff of smoke but generally nothing.
 
“just monitor the oil level ... because it is Mobil 1. I have found that for some reason Mobil 1 burns off a bit easier than other synthetics of the same weight in air cooled engines.”

I have experienced this as well. I have always thought this was because, traditionally, Mobil 1 starts out on the thin side of each weight to achieve a bit of extra power and efficiency. I can't say that this is still the case, as I haven't seen a VOA in a few years … but I bet it is as this has been the industry trend for the last decade or more.

”I am definitely a fan of running the thickest oil allowed … I assume this would be for a mower? At that point, why not run a 20W-50?”

An unnecessarily thick oil will rob your engine of power … and for splash-lubed engines, the thicker oil may not 'splash' properly, with oil failing to reach critical areas in sufficient quantity to properly protect the metal. With higher temps (say, Florida and the southwest of the U.S.) the oil will thin at extreme temps and that may well be the way to go. Cujet swears by Mobil 1 15W-50 for OPE in his neck of the woods.

But for Minnesota, Wisconsin or Upstate N.Y. Where extremely temps are rare, lighter weights are usually the order of the day. I would use 15W-40 in a lawn mower, only (strictly summer use). All other OPE gets a XW30, depending, depending.
 
Interesting thread lots of stuff. I do think it is important to look at specific engine models when looking at specs. A few personal observations; new JD(2015) w/kawfs600v motor arrived on place for me to use and maintain. JD does have both 15/40 and 5/30 on their oil chart. One JD branded oil is 15/40. No kaw engine manual (JD may do own warranty work on motor) but I went to Kaw site and checked their schedule and specs. Slightly diff on wgts but both SJ or higher. Kaw only wants filter change every 200 hrs with oil every 100. JD 100/100 or annual. JD specs no cleaning of pre air but Kaw says every 25H and I have seen some engines that really need that done because they really trash the pre filter. Funny but JD specifically states not to tap air filter to clean but Kaw does! As I pull mower in winter to use machine to haul wood and other things I will use the 15/40 Delo. Don't have livestock anymore so outside stuff can wait if it gets below 20, lol. I will do JD schedule/specs until 4yr/300hr warranty runs out at least. I will sure look at the pre air at 25 h though. Such fun.
 
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman


They have flat tappets, but aren't high compression engines. Only about 8.5:1 It's a CJ-4 oil so what ever the specs are for a CJ-4 formula oil. They took zinc out on this latest formula So most oils only have around 1200ppm zinc and like 1000ppm phosphorous. They make it up with moly and boron usually as the anti wear additives and magnesium to makeup for the lack of calcium, which are the detergents.


Schaeffer must not have gotten the memo on lower zinc and Phos for CJ-4. I just did a UOA on their HDEO 10w30 syn blend CJ-4/SM that I have been trying out in a factory rebuilt Detroit 60, and the zinc level came back at 1573, Phos at 1276, Calcium at 1494, Magnesium at 985, and moly at 68. Seems pretty robust.
 
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