Small engine oil filters...

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The vast majority of small engines (lawn tractors, generators, etc)
use a Fram 8170 (or equivalent) oil filter.
It is about two and a quarter inches long
However the price on the OEM versions are 10+ dollars...
http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH8170

If there is room,
the Fram 3614 / Purolator 10241 also fits,
is three and a half inches long,
can be found on discount shelves,
and holds an additional 4 ounces of oil.
http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH3614
Use a 1989 Yugo GV as a reference
I paid $1.85 for my last 3614 equivalent (Driveworks DW-241) filter...

If there is even more room,
the Fram 3600 / Purolator 20195 is just under 5 inches long,
usually the same price as the 3614 equivalent,
and holds eight more ounces of oil.
(My Craftsman LT2000 lawn tractor uses 56 ounces with the OEM filter,
with the Fram 3600 equivalent, it is exactly 2 quarts, no measuring!)
http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH3600
Use a 1995 1995 Ford Taurus with 3.0 as a reference...
My last four filters were $1.99 for an STP S3600, $1.85 each for two Driveworks DW-195,
and $1.99 for five quarts of QSUD and a Purolator PL20195 (after $10 off $20 purchase, and a $10 rebate),,,
 
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That was my old Craftsman LT2000 with the 17 HP Kohler. They work great on my John Deere with the 20 HP Kawasaki as well.
 
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The 3614 has a 14psi bypass valve opening pressure, whereas my OEM Kawasaki the last time I checked is rated at 8-11psi. So I'm not sure if you have to worry about starving the engine oil if it can't push open the valve?
 
Generally, the larger the media area w/in the filter, the lower the bypass setting will be to protect that larger surface area. An oil filter with a big media area and a high bypass setting would be a very robust filter. Bypass setting should have nothing to do with oil through-put through a filter.
 
I usually purchase a B&S filter for ~ $11 and it gets changed every 75 hours as recommended. 3 years divided by $11 is not worth trying to determine which filter is the same quality and then drive all over to find it to save, maybe $4 or $1.25/year. Ed
 
Two of my vehicles already use the 3614 size filter, so I use it on the mower also. I buy a bunch at a time, the last ones came from Rock Auto with their recent sell off sale.

The Stock filter on the Kawasaki twin was small, and a real pain to remove without a special tool. The 3614 gives you just a little more to get a grip on.

Has anybody cut open one of the stock, small, B&S or Kawasaki filters?
I wonder how good they are. They cost about $20 here if I buy locally.
 
Ive got a bunch of oem OPE filters cut in my older posts...check them out..might be an eye opener
smile.gif
 
My mother in laws Toyota Camry uses the same filter as most of my small engines. I use them or any of the other cheap ones I have in stock.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I usually purchase a B&S filter for ~ $11 and it gets changed every 75 hours as recommended. 3 years divided by $11 is not worth trying to determine which filter is the same quality and then drive all over to find it to save, maybe $4 or $1.25/year. Ed


Agreed. I spent a couple hours one time doing cross reference, trying to match bypass pressures, etc. If memory serves me correct STP had a close or exact match.

In the end I just added a Briggs filter to an Amazon order and called it good.

My mower came with the yellow oil filter, which is pricey. I think they are around $18 locally in stores.
 
Originally Posted By: DSparks
Ive got a bunch of oem OPE filters cut in my older posts...check them out..might be an eye opener
smile.gif



Thank you.

What I see (unless I am mistaken) suggests not to spend even a $1 on an OEM filter over that of a medium quality automotive filter like a version of the almost generic 3614.

I cannot imagine by-pass valve pressure does anything other than protect the filter media from collapse.

What is the typical cold oil pressure of an agricultural V twin?

I doubt 3 psi BP valve differance would starve even the most worn engine.
 
This subject has come up quite a lot on here, from time to time. There is plenty of useage data over several years that confirms that there is absolutely no harm in using cheaper, more popular, filters on OPE. The 3614 being a particular favorite. The specs for these substitute filters are nearly the same as the OPE branded filters. What differences, in each particksular filter, are inconsequential. I myself, have used the same filters on my tractor and PT Cruiser for years, at least since 2008, and no problems whatsover. About the only place I stick to OEM filters, or at least, direct cross referenced replacements, are on the hydrostats on my Husqvarna and WheelHorse tractors. It's harder to find the specs and hydros are expensive. In the case of the WH, it may not even be available, so it's not worth ruining a fantastic tractor's hydro over a few bucks on a filter, when you only change the fluid every other year or so. On the engines, I usually go 30 hours or less in hot summer, and longer in winter, so I do change a lot.
 
Ironically today, I bought 3 WIX made Microgards from Oreillys for the little Kubotas. Used a $5 coupon and walked out the door paying just under $7.

The OEM filter as well as the "suggested" filter made by WIX is over $10 each. Even at that price, the WIX still has a nitrile ADBV too.
 
"I usually purchase a B&S filter for ~ $11 and it gets changed every 75 hours as recommended. 3 years divided by $11 is not worth trying to determine which filter is the same quality and then drive all over to find it to save, maybe $4 or $1.25/year."

Maybe. But on regularly-used tractors and other OPE that had spin-on filters, I liked changing the oil each year ... and I would NEVER change the oil in an engine and leave the old filter on it. The dirtiest oil is in the filter.

By doing a little research, you can save money and end up with a better-made (Wix) filter with higher-capacity.

Anyone here ever hear of an OPE engine failure due to a filter mismatch?
 
I've run every extra filter I've had laying around my garage for the last four years. Now that they're used up, I just buy anything on sale at AZ and don't worry. My Craftsman mower has a 19 hp single cylinder B&S. Always starts, runs very economically and strong on any 15W-40.
 
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