Op here, this thread has been very informative. Thanks everyone!
What's the best 20w50 out there?
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I know my original question was concerning conventional 20w50.....but after reading the responses, what would be a good synthetic 20w50? I guess my question is this, am I better off with a conventional 20w50 like the vr1 or brad penn? Or possibly using a full synthetic like amsoil 20w50 full synthetic?
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Depends on the motor... All carb'd and big cam, conventional because you'll have to change it before the synthetic offered any real advantage due to fuel dilution.
Lightly modd'd OEM engine, maybe a synthetic and two year change interval, but why...
Track car that see high heat, synthetic all the way.
Motor that sits for weeks at a time, conventional because true real synthetics have reduced surface tension and have a well documented "drain-off" phenomenon that will leave a thin oil film to cushion on restart. Dino oils will maintain capillary fill longer and thicker.
Lightly modd'd OEM engine, maybe a synthetic and two year change interval, but why...
Track car that see high heat, synthetic all the way.
Motor that sits for weeks at a time, conventional because true real synthetics have reduced surface tension and have a well documented "drain-off" phenomenon that will leave a thin oil film to cushion on restart. Dino oils will maintain capillary fill longer and thicker.
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Depends on the motor... All carb'd and big cam, conventional because you'll have to change it before the synthetic offered any real advantage due to fuel dilution.
Lightly modd'd OEM engine, maybe a synthetic and two year change interval, but why...
Track car that see high heat, synthetic all the way.
Motor that sits for weeks at a time, conventional because true real synthetics have reduced surface tension and have a well documented "drain-off" phenomenon that will leave a thin oil film to cushion on restart. Dino oils will maintain capillary fill longer and thicker.
My car is a heavily modified fuel injected engine. Large cam, ported heads, high compression, etc.
But as far as my driving habits, it usually gets driven once or twice a week in the nice months, and a day at the drag strip once a year.
Depends on the motor... All carb'd and big cam, conventional because you'll have to change it before the synthetic offered any real advantage due to fuel dilution.
Lightly modd'd OEM engine, maybe a synthetic and two year change interval, but why...
Track car that see high heat, synthetic all the way.
Motor that sits for weeks at a time, conventional because true real synthetics have reduced surface tension and have a well documented "drain-off" phenomenon that will leave a thin oil film to cushion on restart. Dino oils will maintain capillary fill longer and thicker.
My car is a heavily modified fuel injected engine. Large cam, ported heads, high compression, etc.
But as far as my driving habits, it usually gets driven once or twice a week in the nice months, and a day at the drag strip once a year.
Originally Posted By: S10mk
I know my original question was concerning conventional 20w50.....but after reading the responses, what would be a good synthetic 20w50? I guess my question is this, am I better off with a conventional 20w50 like the vr1 or brad penn? Or possibly using a full synthetic like amsoil 20w50 full synthetic?
VR1 20/50 also comes in synthetic (black bottle). This is what I was using. I'm slowly switching to Schaeffer #704.
I know my original question was concerning conventional 20w50.....but after reading the responses, what would be a good synthetic 20w50? I guess my question is this, am I better off with a conventional 20w50 like the vr1 or brad penn? Or possibly using a full synthetic like amsoil 20w50 full synthetic?
VR1 20/50 also comes in synthetic (black bottle). This is what I was using. I'm slowly switching to Schaeffer #704.
Over the past few days I've learned a lot about motor oil and my different options. I've been debating back and forth between 4 different oils.
1. M1 15w50
2. Valvoline vr1 covventional 20w50
3. Schaeffer's 7000 20w50
4. Brad penn 20w50
I don't think I can go wrong with any of them, any opinions?
1. M1 15w50
2. Valvoline vr1 covventional 20w50
3. Schaeffer's 7000 20w50
4. Brad penn 20w50
I don't think I can go wrong with any of them, any opinions?
Just to be controversial I'd suggest you look at Redline 15w50
Here is a cost break down of each oil if that helps. I had not included redline, just because of its cost, but I'll include it here for the [censored] of it.
1. Brad penn, penn grade 76.22(case of 12) 6.35 qt
2. Schaeffer's 7000, 705. 91.16(case of 12) 7.60 qt
3. M1 15w50, 26.44 (5qt jug. Walmart) 5.28 qt
4. Valvoline vr1 covventional. 6.19 qt
5. Redline 15w50, 138.62 (case of 12) 11.50 qt
1. Brad penn, penn grade 76.22(case of 12) 6.35 qt
2. Schaeffer's 7000, 705. 91.16(case of 12) 7.60 qt
3. M1 15w50, 26.44 (5qt jug. Walmart) 5.28 qt
4. Valvoline vr1 covventional. 6.19 qt
5. Redline 15w50, 138.62 (case of 12) 11.50 qt
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
But high end oils like Redline,etc have a really heavy old school add pack that you can see on voa/uoa. Always lots of zinc and moly.
High end at the overrated end.
Listen to your engine builder.
But high end oils like Redline,etc have a really heavy old school add pack that you can see on voa/uoa. Always lots of zinc and moly.
High end at the overrated end.
Listen to your engine builder.
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