2001 with the 4.7. V8. Bought used in great shape with a lot of maintenance records but none for the transmission fluid change. I am the 3rd owner and according to the car fax, each owner had it approx 100,000 miles. I was unsure of wether to change the fluid or at least do a drain and fill. The fluid is starting to turn brown. I called my local toyota dealer and they said to NOT change it as it might grenade the transmission. I don't believe in lifetime fluids so this is getting me all twitchy. lol It starts and runs fine, I just want to keep it going for a long time. Currently has 216,000 miles on it. I bought it with 211,000. I guess I don't see why new fluid would cause my transmission to [censored] out. Any assistance here is greatly appreciated.
2001 Toyota Sequoia, 216,000 miles, ATF ??
- Thread starter Tlhfirelion
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I would do a drain and fill. Use the type IV
It is speced for DexIII; I run Maxlife ATF in my friends 2002 Tundra, and it does a great job. D+F is 4 qts, full capacity is 12.
I did a D+F @ about 120K and two others in 2 subsequent summers. It has 200K now.
I'm sure a complete fluid exchange might be in order with such high mileage; I will let others comment on that. I did not do that, since I haven't done it in the past, and it is not my vehicle, so I took the path of things I could do easily.
I did a D+F @ about 120K and two others in 2 subsequent summers. It has 200K now.
I'm sure a complete fluid exchange might be in order with such high mileage; I will let others comment on that. I did not do that, since I haven't done it in the past, and it is not my vehicle, so I took the path of things I could do easily.
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do any of you have any idea why the toyota service tech said that a fluid change could ruin my transmission? It seemed counterintuitive but I don't claim to be anything close to an expert on transmissions. Thank you for everyones replies!
A vigorous flush or pumping to get all the fluid out could move gunk around that ends up where it shouldn't be, degrading or killing the trans. One such area might be the clutches. A gentle drain and fill gets 1/3 to 1/2 changed out without disturbing old deposits. There's never a guarantee either way. If your pan is clean that will be a plus and make you feel better. No way to know without taking a look.
I have a feeling that a lot of the stories come from transmissions getting near end of life where the owner's changed the fluid. And because the trans died a short time later, the cause was deemed to be the "fluid change," rather than a tired and old transmission at end of life.
I have a feeling that a lot of the stories come from transmissions getting near end of life where the owner's changed the fluid. And because the trans died a short time later, the cause was deemed to be the "fluid change," rather than a tired and old transmission at end of life.
great reply, thank you. I guess I can see what your saying and I may wait until winter is over and do a drain and fill and this is my "bad weather get to work" vehicle.
One clarification, you said "if your pan is clean", are you saying I should drop the transmission pan? I've done it before but hadn't planned on going that far with this. Thanks again!
Another idea.. Get a Mighty Vac. Pull out say 2-3 quarts if it holds say 7 quarts. Obviously add new fluid back. Run an entire year and then do it again by taking out 3 qts then adding back 3 new ones. Then run one year and repeat again.
By doing this you could avoid greatly changing the friction coefficient with all new fluid. Because the older fluid has more particulate matter in it causing it to work according to that friction coefficient. By getting all new fluid in it thus changing the friction coefficient to where it can't work in the same fashion as it was used to. Thus the transmission slips etc. By slowly changing the fluid it greatly reduces the chance of this taking place.
By doing this you could avoid greatly changing the friction coefficient with all new fluid. Because the older fluid has more particulate matter in it causing it to work according to that friction coefficient. By getting all new fluid in it thus changing the friction coefficient to where it can't work in the same fashion as it was used to. Thus the transmission slips etc. By slowly changing the fluid it greatly reduces the chance of this taking place.
Interesting idea and a valid excuse to buy a new tool.
I will look into this. Thanks!
Red Line D4.
It should having a a drain plug right? With transmissions that are very overdue I recommend a drain and fill every 1k miles until you reach at least the fluid capacity worth of new fluid, so 3-4 drain and fills. Use Maxlife ATF, it's a perfect Dexron replacement and superior in every way.
Every professional I've talked to says leave the fluid alone. Three people at work talked to professionals and were all told leave the fluid alone. I've changed out a couple quarts of ATF on my older Toyotas. Figure a couple quarts at a time shouldn't upset things too much.
Do a couple drain and fills with t4. I have a 2000 es300 and the trans fluid came out like black coffee at around 130,000. I changed the filter and did a few drain and fills. It has 160,000 on it now and the trans is fine. I know you're over 200,000 but I have changed many initial trans fluids at well over 100k without issue.
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I agree with changing the fluid...and I agree with doing it gradually. I would D&R 3 qts...run it a month...D&R 3 qts. run it a month...D&R 3 qts. run it a month. After that I'd drop the pan, change the filter, clean the magnets and refill with fresh fluid.
If regular Dex III fluid was the OE you could save some $$ by running WM Dex III....but I agree that Maxlife is better.. Either way, your tranny will love you for it....
If regular Dex III fluid was the OE you could save some $$ by running WM Dex III....but I agree that Maxlife is better.. Either way, your tranny will love you for it....
The reason "professionals" recommend to leave it is that a transmission service doesn't make them much money and they don't want the risk on their hands.
Even my local mechanic which is very competent and affordable wouldn't change my manual transmission fluid because it had been too long since it was changed before, which is ridiculous. Basically most wrench turners know nothing about fluids.
Clean fluid is better for everything inside an automatic transmission and removing contamination is never a bad idea. Change the fluid if it's time!
Even my local mechanic which is very competent and affordable wouldn't change my manual transmission fluid because it had been too long since it was changed before, which is ridiculous. Basically most wrench turners know nothing about fluids.
Clean fluid is better for everything inside an automatic transmission and removing contamination is never a bad idea. Change the fluid if it's time!
Old vehicles are gems to work with - drain and fill bolts, accept anything u can throw at them.
Having said that drain and fill with Max life synthetic will serve you well.
Having said that drain and fill with Max life synthetic will serve you well.
Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
great reply, thank you. I guess I can see what your saying and I may wait until winter is over and do a drain and fill and this is my "bad weather get to work" vehicle.
One clarification, you said "if your pan is clean", are you saying I should drop the transmission pan? I've done it before but hadn't planned on going that far with this. Thanks again!
If you have a drain plug, even simpler...and the way to go for now. My car would require dropping the pan. I would agree with taking out a few quarts at a time to slowly clean things up.
great reply, thank you. I guess I can see what your saying and I may wait until winter is over and do a drain and fill and this is my "bad weather get to work" vehicle.
If you have a drain plug, even simpler...and the way to go for now. My car would require dropping the pan. I would agree with taking out a few quarts at a time to slowly clean things up.
Originally Posted By: pbm
I agree with changing the fluid...and I agree with doing it gradually. I would D&R 3 qts...run it a month...D&R 3 qts. run it a month...D&R 3 qts. run it a month. After that I'd drop the pan, change the filter, clean the magnets and refill with fresh fluid.
If regular Dex III fluid was the OE you could save some $$ by running WM Dex III....but I agree that Maxlife is better.. Either way, your tranny will love you for it....
^^ this +1.....gradual is what I always do.
I agree with changing the fluid...and I agree with doing it gradually. I would D&R 3 qts...run it a month...D&R 3 qts. run it a month...D&R 3 qts. run it a month. After that I'd drop the pan, change the filter, clean the magnets and refill with fresh fluid.
If regular Dex III fluid was the OE you could save some $$ by running WM Dex III....but I agree that Maxlife is better.. Either way, your tranny will love you for it....
^^ this +1.....gradual is what I always do.
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