FL1A for a 1967 390

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I have a 67 mercury with a 390 engine that uses a FL1A type filter and I have been having problems with lifters that stick and then tap from what is thought to be dirt particles. This is an engine that is used on weekends mostly and oil change intervals are often. would a finer filter media help with this issue? I am currently using 10W30 motor oil, thanks Paul.
 
Personally, I can't see it helping, but it wouldn't cost you much to go out and try something like a Fram Ultra, or whatever other filter with better numbers you could find that would be suitable. I wouldn't go spend a bunch of money on the latest internet scam or installing a bypass filter, but a couple extra bucks on a higher end filter for a couple OCIs could show it helps, or that it doesn't.

My hazy memory about those engines includes similar experiences to yours. I don't recall any good solution ever being found back in the day, but trying finer filtration can't hurt.
 
Isn't varnish in lifters more of a chemical reaction, that would be better solved with a different oil?
 
Cross references for the Motorcraft FL-1A (off the top of my head) include:

Wix:
51515

Purolator:
L30001
PL30001
PSL30001

Fram:
PH8A
TG8A
XG8A

Baldwin:
B2
B2-HPG

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As others have stated, you may also want to try a different oil. What are you currently using, and how often do you change your oil?

~ Triton
 
I did get a wix 51515 today and a detergent additive for a short try. I have been using quaker state Dino only. The oil has been changed twice a year.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Isn't varnish in lifters more of a chemical reaction, that would be better solved with a different oil?


This.

Try Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 10w30 and a Wix 51515 (Napa Gold 1515). My Jeep has varnish on the inside of the engine and the lifters are noisy. The Pennzoil has helped clean and quiet them down considerably.
 
Originally Posted By: preaction
I did get a wix 51515 today and a detergent additive for a short try. I have been using quaker state Dino only. The oil has been changed twice a year.

Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Isn't varnish in lifters more of a chemical reaction, that would be better solved with a different oil?

This.

Try Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 10w30 and a Wix 51515 (Napa Gold 1515). My Jeep has varnish on the inside of the engine and the lifters are noisy. The Pennzoil has helped clean and quiet them down considerably.

Good choice on the Wix 51515.

However as far as trying PYB goes - he's been using QSGB, which, is quite similar in formulation IIRC, since the two oils are essentially "cousins" per se.

That isn't to say the PYB wouldn't help. It could.

I would personally try using Shell Rotella T5 10w-30. It's a semi-synthetic HDEO (but it should be fine for your car), so it's got a heavier additive pack.

~ Triton
 
Use an XG8A and a quality synthetic or blend. I use Valvoline Synpower High Mileage (formerly called Maxlife Full Synthetic) 5W30 in the XJ in my sig, now has over 222K on the original engine, uses essentially no oil. I've had other engines that had noisy lifter issues that MaxLife helped with too-but if you have a high performance/high lift cam, an HDEO like Rotella or Delvac 1300 10W30 would be better.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Use an XG8A and a quality synthetic or blend. I use Valvoline Synpower High Mileage (formerly called Maxlife Full Synthetic) 5W30 in the XJ in my sig, now has over 222K on the original engine, uses essentially no oil. I've had other engines that had noisy lifter issues that MaxLife helped with too-but if you have a high performance/high lift cam, an HDEO like Rotella or Delvac 1300 10W30 would be better.

First of all, he already bought a Wix filter.

Anywho, I actually agree with your choice of oil...

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OP, if you want to stick with 10w-30:

VS HM 10w-30

0663d4a15f.jpg


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Or if you want to try the 5w-30:

VS HM 5w-30

270f335226.jpg


~ Triton
 
Don't expect miracles, that 390 almost 50 years old and was designed to run on leaded gas. During its heyday, those engines were lucky to go over 50k w/o a valve job. Unless it was redone, could be worn/dirty lifters, guide or valve/seat issues. I would stick with the FL1A and PYB 10/30. I wouldn't go with synthetic on that beast.
 
Thanks for the great reply's the motor has been rebuilt so I am dealing with newer parts.
 
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