LED vs Halogen Backup lights-pics (elantra)

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I've been trying to solder in a new led for the window switch on my 2002 Honda CRV (bulbs under the AUTO and mirrow buttons. I use the 3mm led from Christmas light strings. It's not working. It won't light up. Originally, there is a 3mm led under the AUTO button but it was not working so I tried to solder a new led as well as incandescent bulb and it is still not working.

So, there must be special led with built in resistance for it to work in my case...
 
I was hoping you would have done Left/Right comparison. That would force the exposure to remain constant and would be easy to judge.

Never mind; I looked at the EXIF data and LED is even better! I need to buy those bulbs. The one I purchased look very similar but they just don't work for me.
 
Yeah and please update with before / after pics if you can.

I did take a pic with just one LED on one side and incand. on the other but that pic was taken with iphone and was so low quality I didn't bother to post it.

Let me see if I can dig it up and post anyway.
 
Don't bother. EXIF data of the Nikon pictures you have posted clearly shows LED is illuminating brighter. The camera even had to drop the exposure a little bit - 1/6 vs 1/4 second!
 
Originally Posted By: 97tbird
There are "canbus" compatible "no error" LEDs available, which are supposed to prevent "bulb out" warnings and hyper flashing.
I will check into those--thanks for the tip!
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Originally Posted By: 97tbird
There are "canbus" compatible "no error" LEDs available, which are supposed to prevent "bulb out" warnings and hyper flashing.
I will check into those--thanks for the tip!

Amazon seller YITAMOTOR has LED Canbus 1156 for $18.50 for 4 with free shipping. It doesn't have projector.

http://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-BA15S-Ca...rds=canbus+1156

Some of YITAMOTOR LED bulbs have very good customer reviews.

I will buy a 4-pack above to use in E430 for backup and stop lights.
 
Please post before and after pics when you install them
I am curious to se how an LED bulb without projectors would illuminate as a backup light.
Those have a lot of LEDs on the sides but I am interested in seeing what effect they have, with no projector in front.
 
Reverse light LED bulbs are a good upgrade.

White LEDs don't have much 'red' wavelength in them. When using an LED for brake lights, match the color of the LED.

Ebay has a pretty good selection of bulbs built with Cree LEDs like the XP-E, XB-D...

For example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-1156-1141-12-...t-/371286320972

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1156-BA15S-20...s-/311501188973

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-Brilliant-RE...s-/311364367394

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-P21W-80W-RED-...D-/281537676252

I use 50w Cree XB-D 921's for reverse lighting.

I wouldn't waste on penny on those 5050 Yitamotor LEDs.

Overpriced but some are Cree equipped:
http://www.autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm
http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/reverse-back-up/1156-led.html

Most LED bulbs are not heatsinked properly for continuous usage. Use them for temporary reverse/interior... lighting.

Notice the heatsink on this 1156...
http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/reverse-back-up/1156-led/v3-kit-w-1156.html
 
Not being the nanny but I thought that reverse lights had to spread the light up and down, so that a motorist behind you did not think they were headlights coming at them. What you have there is basically a projector LED bulb type headlight aiming backwards.

Some cars in europe have reverse fog lights, but I have not seen that in the US.
 
Originally Posted By: JustinH
Not being the nanny but I thought that reverse lights had to spread the light up and down, so that a motorist behind you did not think they were headlights coming at them. What you have there is basically a projector LED bulb type headlight aiming backwards.

Some cars in europe have reverse fog lights, but I have not seen that in the US.
I've owned two Volvos, an'87 and a '90, that had reverse fog lights.
 
Originally Posted By: 97tbird
Please post before and after pics when you install them
I am curious to se how an LED bulb without projectors would illuminate as a backup light.
Those have a lot of LEDs on the sides but I am interested in seeing what effect they have, with no projector in front.

I will post picture(s) comparing these LED bulbs with OEM halogen bulbs.
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Reverse light LED bulbs are a good upgrade.

White LEDs don't have much 'red' wavelength in them. When using an LED for brake lights, match the color of the LED.

Ebay has a pretty good selection of bulbs built with Cree LEDs like the XP-E, XB-D...

For example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-1156-1141-12-...t-/371286320972

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1156-BA15S-20...s-/311501188973

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-Brilliant-RE...s-/311364367394

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-P21W-80W-RED-...D-/281537676252

I use 50w Cree XB-D 921's for reverse lighting.

I wouldn't waste on penny on those 5050 Yitamotor LEDs.

Overpriced but some are Cree equipped:
http://www.autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm
http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/reverse-back-up/1156-led.html

Most LED bulbs are not heatsinked properly for continuous usage. Use them for temporary reverse/interior... lighting.

Notice the heatsink on this 1156...
http://www.vleds.com/bulb-type/reverse-back-up/1156-led/v3-kit-w-1156.html

These bulbs are too expensive. Also, buying from Amazon's third party seller is safer in term of warranty. If seller didn't want to refund for any reason Amazon is there for buyers.
 
Bulbs that work well are not too expensive. Buying garbage with a warranty or return policy is funny. Its more expensive to crash into something or someone that you can't see. Even more sad/painful is to get rear ended because no one can see pathetic LED brake light bulbs on a sunny day.

Amazon also has some of the same sellers as ebay if that is your store. Just search for the better bulbs equipped with Cree.

LEDs require a driver or minimally a resistor to control voltage. Don't expect to just solder one in and hope it works. They are also polarity specific. Make sure the circuit matches what is required by the LED you want to use. Measure the voltage available where your burnt out bulbs are.

Any LED can be CANBUS ok with a load resistor. The higher output ones draw enough current and work without a load resistor. The toy ones need a load resistor built or wired in.

Cree LED usually have about 120° output and not really projector laser pointer like, which usually comes from the lens and reflector. Couple aimed backwards gives you the distance while the 4 mounted around provide the fill for the cars housing reflector and lens. The OP's 1156 cover both the beam needed to see a little further, and the flooding of the reflector/lens to give you full lighting everywhere else. Besides 30w, 40 50 60 80 watt 1156 LED versions are available. Also, there is an equivalent 30w 1156 with 4 rearward firing and 2 forward firing LEDS(I guess trying to market to those that want to fill the OE reflector). Shouldn't be much different since that LED covers 120 degrees.
 
OP here.

Ordered some 7506 LEDs ( = 1156 base?? perhaps I could have used the same ones I got for elantra?) for the BMW backup lights. different brand, and reputed to be a bit higher quality, per reviews/research...

Will do a before/after comparo after installation. I am curious to see if the effect will be as dramatic: The 330Ci has much smaller lenses for the backup lights, compared to the lenses of the Elantra, AND they sit higher on the trunk lid, too.
 
Originally Posted By: Tundragod
I've been trying to solder in a new led for the window switch on my 2002 Honda CRV (bulbs under the AUTO and mirrow buttons. I use the 3mm led from Christmas light strings. It's not working. It won't light up. Originally, there is a 3mm led under the AUTO button but it was not working so I tried to solder a new led as well as incandescent bulb and it is still not working.

So, there must be special led with built in resistance for it to work in my case...
They ar epolarity sensitive, AND may have a different voltage requirement. Get yourself a 12 volt LED and try that. The side of the bulb with the "flat" and the longer lead is positive.
 
Originally Posted By: 97tbird

Ordered some 7506 LEDs ( = 1156 base?? perhaps I could have used the same ones I got for elantra?) for the BMW backup lights. different brand, and reputed to be a bit higher quality, per reviews/research...


Steal one from the Hyundai and swap it into the BMW.

I think that the Hyundai upgrade was pretty good and certainly way better than the mega SMT/SMD count LED bulbs from a couple years ago. The 1156 (6 Cree XB-D advertised equivalent 30w) might find there way into the front headlights of my lawn tractor. I don't want to stress its electrical system with any more power draw. To give you a little hint, I find that there are a few manufacturers and hundreds of resellers slapping their name on the bulbs coming over from China.

What other brand did you order for the BMW?
 
This is what I got for the BMW:
(they have a newer version with even more side-LEDs, but i went with the older version for a a bit less $$ - AFAIK tere shouldn't be a huge difference..)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUP3...ailpage_o00_s00

The brand name sounds silly and doesn't impart seriousness but they are respected by a lot of people in automobile lighting forums, and supposedly use higher quality components and have good quality control... we shall see.
 
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JDM Astar lights are real good. I've used them many times before.

LED backups are one of the best mods I ever did. I always seem to find myself in situations where the stockers showed me practically nothing.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
http://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-BA15S-Ca...rds=canbus+1156

I will buy a 4-pack above to use in E430 for backup and stop lights.

Originally Posted By: 97tbird
Please post before and after pics when you install them
I am curious to se how an LED bulb without projectors would illuminate as a backup light.
Those have a lot of LEDs on the sides but I am interested in seeing what effect they have, with no projector in front.

I received the LED bulbs today. I installed it on the driver side to compare with OEM on passenger side.

The pictures are taken in garage during the day so it is hard to see how good the LED is at night. The engine isn't running, the power is just from batter at around 12.5 volts, when the engine is running the power is probably around 14.3-14.5 volts.

From my eyes the LED bulb from YITAMOTOR makes more than twice the light compares with OEM and whiter too. I think for around $4.50-$5/each it is a good buy, especially the seller is from US not China.

I may be able to take few more pictures tonight with the engine running to actually compare the two.


 
Looks way better than the regular bulb - congrats!
Take some pics like I did, if you can showing the GROUND behind the car showing 5-6 yards, or so.
 
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