Removing Haze From Headlights II

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Nov 20, 2006
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31,190
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
I have been asked to repost this with the pics....


I don't waste a lot of time on this job, to get them like brand new (seriously, not close but new) in a few min here is how i do it.

Mask off the light well with 3-4 layers of tape or remove it, Sand with an orbital sander and a foam 3000 grit foam disc. These come in 6 inch so use a old 5 inch disc and mark the pad then cut it down to use on the common 5 inch orbital sanders.
Dip the pad in a shallow pan of water so the pad holds water and stays wet, sand it till it looks perfect.

Polish it with compound and swirl remover after sanding using a buffer, i use a 6 inch rotary, the orbitals are painfully slow. Do not skip this step, it makes the difference between looking good and looking new!

Wipe 2X with alcohol, let dry and blow a couple of coats of clear on it. I use 2K when i paint something else but U-POL has a nice UV resistant rattle can clear. The picture is all reflections but it is 100% crystal clear.
You can 3000 sand the clear and buff it again but you don't have to.

This one was pretty hazed, 10 min per light total prep time.

SAM_1504_zpscdjy5scn.jpg



You can buy the these product single at an auto body supply store. The disc are abut $3ea

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-S6F3000-Professional-Unigrit-Finishing/dp/B004QJIY36

http://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Products-079...s=upol+uv+clear


I use a Dewalt variable speed orbital and run it on about 2-3 for dull hazing, even crusty yellow will come out flawless just increase the speed a little and keep the pad wet.
1 disc will easily do a pair of nasty light so for a $3 disc and a $20 can of UV clear (does about 10 lights) and a little compound your in business.

This one is dirty now but still crystal clear i did this one over a year ago and its never been washed. This one was so yellow it failed inspection and had almost no light on the road.

SAM_1505_zpssr4sy4dh.jpg


I use this 5" orbital variable speed and this is the UV resistant clear, it gives very good results for those without spray equipment.

SAM_1506_zpsksdtqmdq.jpg



The disc, these are not a major brand but body shop supply quality. They are cheap but give outstanding results.

SAM_1507_zpsr3aqnps1.jpg


SAM_1508_zpsyrtjqbbk.jpg


Finally if you have a spray gun and a respirator it doesn't get any better than this clear for durability and UV resistance. This is the original Dupont glamour clear formula. Also available in quarts.

SAM_1509_zpsyw6apk3f.jpg


The VW/Audi lights seem to go yellow fast on some years. They are an expensive light and worth doing. Aftermarket headlights are usually no where near as good a OE, you are better of saving the originals if you can.
 
Hi Trav,

I too, bought some U-Pol 2K clear (rattle cans) and would like to try it on my wifey's camry. Wondering how good the flow is during drying?

Do I have still have to polish it with compound afterwards to achieve maximum uniformity or a couple of spray coats (sufficient drying in between, maybe 30mins to 1hr) suffice?

Please advise.

Q.
 
Depending on the temp wait 10 -15 min between coats, in the summer you can do it in 5 min.
Put 3 coats on then let it sit overnight or 24 hrs again depending on temp.
It flows well if you use medium to wet coats, try it first on a piece of old plastic r painted tin to get the feel of of how heavy you can apply it before it sags or runs.
First coat go with a medium then two wet.

Don't worry if you get a sag or run, leave it for a week, sand it with the 3000 and reshoot it, if you try to shoot a single stage like this too soon it will go craze. The 2K clear can be reshot in a couple of hours.

If it looks nice and smooth without any major imperfections like dirt in it then there is no need to buff it after, buffing it does make it look perfect though but does not noticeably effect the beam pattern.
I just wet sand it with 3000 and a drop of dish soap in a small pan of water then buff it with rubbing compound and a finishing polish. Keep the buffer speed low and keep it moving, i usually go 800-1000 rpm, No need to wax it.

I have no idea what speed to run a DA polisher as i don't own one, the small 5 1/4" rotary with a 6" pad works perfect for me on these small jobs.

I use this for final polish..

http://www.amazon.com/3M-39062-Perfect-It-Ultrafine-Machine/dp/B003D704IU/ref=pd_sim_263_8?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Rqjls9WfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0Z0885BQ4VJ7NPBEYRCG

This is the compound. They are both available in smaller sizes.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail...8&ppt=C0209

Practice makes perfect with this sort of work, practice buffing and sanding any old piece before attacking the part.
 
Thanks, I'll try this.

I've never seen the U-POL rattle cal clear.
Where do you get it, at an auto body supply store?

I'd prefer to go to a brick & motor store than order online.
 
Yes i buy it and the 3000 foam pads from the local auto body supply store, its about the same price. Good stuff with good UV protection.
 
thank you for sharing, Trav.

I'll have to wait til the weather gets warmer before I can re-do wifey's camry headlamps.

I guess unless I shoot a very wet/heavy 1st coat (it will run), otherwise: all I have to do is properly mask the headlamps (while they are on the car) and that should be ok?


(*I'm not/never a bodyshop guy, so forgive my ignorance on some of these things*)

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
thank you for sharing, Trav.

I'll have to wait til the weather gets warmer before I can re-do wifey's camry headlamps.

I guess unless I shoot a very wet/heavy 1st coat (it will run), otherwise: all I have to do is properly mask the headlamps (while they are on the car) and that should be ok?


(*I'm not/never a bodyshop guy, so forgive my ignorance on some of these things*)

Q.


Yes just sand it with the 3000 and mask it off well, shoot one light to medium then 2 wet.
When its warm weather you can go wetter and move slower but as temps drop spray lighter and move faster.
Your fine to about 60f, below that and it gets harder not to run it.

Ask all the questions you want, I will answer all to the best of my knowledge. This is not info for a body man, they can do this all day.
This is just a way to get the same results at home by anyone with a minimum of investment and without buying these kits that use drills and compound, then trying to protect them with wax or other non permanent coatings.

Protecting the plastic lens once polished is the key to great looking maintenance free lights (other than normal washing).

Thanks Garak for mentioning this, if you hadn't i would have forgot all about it.
 
Ill have to tackle this next year for the Jeep. Thank you for sharing.

Too bad you didnt live closer. I could bribe you with an SK wrench set and some Fireball.
laugh.gif
 
Trav, thanks for posting this. I've been looking for a good clearcoat. I picked up the U-Pol off amazon and am pleased with it. It is not the easiest spray can to use but with a little practice first it was /great/. Very pleased. Thank you.
 
Nice. Just one suggestion though for guys who work on their own cars. See if the light assembly will come out easily. Most just pop right out with a couple screws and go right back in place with no alignment needed.
If you can do it easily pull the lights and work them on your bench. No taping needed and no worry about scuffing up your paint if you aren't rock steady with a buffer / sander and in the end you will get a better job in less time and trouble.
 
I do something similar to my headlights.

Something to keep in mind, many headlights are already "clear coated" from the factory. If the factory clear coat is failing, sanding it superficially and overcoating it won't stop the degradation.

It must be sanded off in many cases.
 
I just did mine by hand. Used 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 wet sand paper and then polishing compound.
 
I can get SprayMax 2K clear in an aerosol can or any clear from PPG as long as it's CARB low-VOC. I'm sure those will work as well too Trav?
 
Oh yes that will work great. Be careful with 2K clears if you are not use to them, you need good mask and suit to prevent isocyanate poisoning.
 
Photobucket dropped all the pics so here they are in order they were in the original post.

I have been asked to repost this with the pics....


I don't waste a lot of time on this job, to get them like brand new (seriously, not close but new) in a few min here is how i do it.

Mask off the light well with 3-4 layers of tape or remove it, Sand with an orbital sander and a foam 3000 grit foam disc. These come in 6 inch so use a old 5 inch disc and mark the pad then cut it down to use on the common 5 inch orbital sanders.
Dip the pad in a shallow pan of water so the pad holds water and stays wet, sand it till it looks perfect.

Polish it with compound and swirl remover after sanding using a buffer, i use a 6 inch rotary, the orbitals are painfully slow. Do not skip this step, it makes the difference between looking good and looking new!

Wipe 2X with alcohol, let dry and blow a couple of coats of clear on it. I use 2K when i paint something else but U-POL has a nice UV resistant rattle can clear. The picture is all reflections but it is 100% crystal clear.
You can 3000 sand the clear and buff it again but you don't have to.

This one was pretty hazed, 10 min per light total prep time.




You can buy the these product single at an auto body supply store. The disc are abut $3ea

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-S6F3000-Professional-Unigrit-Finishing/dp/B004QJIY36

http://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Products-079...s=upol+uv+clear


I use a Dewalt variable speed orbital and run it on about 2-3 for dull hazing, even crusty yellow will come out flawless just increase the speed a little and keep the pad wet.
1 disc will easily do a pair of nasty light so for a $3 disc and a $20 can of UV clear (does about 10 lights) and a little compound your in business.

This one is dirty now but still crystal clear i did this one over a year ago and its never been washed. This one was so yellow it failed inspection and had almost no light on the road.






I use this 5" orbital variable speed and this is the UV resistant clear, it gives very good results for those without spray equipment.






The disc, these are not a major brand but body shop supply quality. They are cheap but give outstanding results.









Finally if you have a spray gun and a respirator it doesn't get any better than this clear for durability and UV resistance. This is the original Dupont glamour clear formula. Also available in quarts.





The VW/Audi lights seem to go yellow fast on some years. They are an expensive light and worth doing. Aftermarket headlights are usually no where near as good a OE, you are better of saving the originals if you can.
 
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