Oil Recommendation for 1974 Mopar 318 V8

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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: bigt61
It doesn't need any additional zinc, it's a 318, not a Hi Perf 340. I'd use the cheapest 10W-30 SM-SN dino you can find. Synthetic will leak more than likely.


It needs the additional zinc for the camshaft and lifters. An SN oil is not gonna cut it.


Why? Does it have upgraded an performance cam with matching springs? No? Then no it doesn't.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Why?


Because a professional automotive machinist told me so.

I can PM you his phone number and you can have it out with him. . .
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Why?


Because a professional automotive machinist told me so.

I can PM you his phone number and you can have it out with him. . .


That's nice. I know one myself and he has no such requirement for a stock engine or stock rebuild and neither did the engine manufacturers as noted by the amount of ZDDP present in the "current" oils of the day.

For a performance build the same guy recommends an HDEO (assuming flat tappet). A roller motor is another topic.
 
Congratulations Bookmaker on your new purchase. I was very active in the muscle Mopar hobby for about 15 years. And the most fun I had was always with the original paint, low mileage, survivor cars. I had 3 of them. My '69 Super Bee was part of the first official gathering of survivor Mopars at the 1997 Chryslers at Carlisle. Your car is a perfect fit for that display. If you are able to make it to Carlisle, PA for one weekend in July I'd try to swing it. You'll have a great time. And you'll get a covered car space for your efforts. It's one of the best run, major Mopar shows in the country...some say it's the best.

One of the drawbacks of owning such a survivor is the anxiety that comes from putting on more miles. You'll hate yourself (lol) when you turn over to 12,000 miles. Been there and felt it many times. You'll be torn between replacing really old original factory date coded parts with newer ones that will give you better reliability on 10-50 mile trips. They make some great reproductions these days that are close matches for originals. While those date coded and stenciled 40 year old coolant hoses and drive belts look neat, they pose some added risk when on the road. A blown radiator hose or radiator leak can make a mess on the interstate. All 40 year old parts.

I drove my 85% original Super Bee 325 miles each way to Carlisle. An 11K mile Duster from Virgina should be a breeze and a fun trip. Considering the car has a lot of 40 year old parts I'd get a shopping list of emergency spares to carry with you at all times. I did that and more than once it saved my butt (spare ballast resistor, voltage regulator, fuses, wires, points/condenser, distributor rotor and cap, pcv valve, alternator, radiator cap, carb gasket, fuel and oil filters, drive belts, extra motor oil and coolant, radiator/heater hoses, and a small tool kit). Those first 6 items are a must and won't run you over $50-$100. And someday you'll use them. If you haven't timed and tuned a 318 engine before it will be fun.

Good luck with your Duster. You may also want to check out the main Mopar Forum out there if you haven't already (moparts.com). Lots of good people to give you good advice. And those guys still live and breath 318 and 340 engines. And they will invaluable for maintaining your Mopar in top condition. When I was running 383/440 HiPo Mopar engines in the 1990's all I used was plain old 10w-40 QS, Castrol, Pennzoil, etc. I think the grades back then was SH or SJ. A 318 is a sedate lower compression engine. You shouldn't need any fancy additives for what was a basic passenger car engine. It's not a big dollar car either because it doesn't have a 340ci hp engine. Either that or a convertible. But, it's a sweet and rare car in this condition. Dusters are very popular in the Mopar world.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
That's nice. I know one myself and he has no such requirement for a stock engine or stock rebuild and neither did the engine manufacturers as noted by the amount of ZDDP present in the "current" oils of the day.

For a performance build the same guy recommends an HDEO (assuming flat tappet). A roller motor is another topic.



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LMAO!!
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