2016 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.4, OCI suggestion.

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Well, we purchased the new Santa Fe AWD with the 2.4L.

I'm pretty sure Hyundai has a 7.5k oci interval. Since she drives 110 miles round trip that is 90% highway this is what we will go with.

This is a D.I. engine, so what should I go with. 5W30 or 5w20 since the book says either or.

Would it benefit from using a synthetic, or just use a dino since it is not really a long drain interval?

Thanks!!
 
The dealerships use bulk dino 5w20 or 5w30. The manual recommends SM/GF-4, so any off the shelf SN/GF-5 is an upgrade. Some UOA have shown dilution on either syn or dino but none that i recall have shown excessive wear. There has been a long standing belief that all GDi leave intake valve deposits but the 2.4 has been out since 2009 without any significant issues, IVD or otherwise (IVD issues are proported to show symptoms around 25-30K mils). Because of the IVD worry, many will recommend the lowest Noack or TOEST synthetic you can find. Some will recommend a Low SAPS, others will recommend a heavier viscosity to offset the dilution.

I mix the game up somewhat, sometimes dino, sometimes syn or blends. The furthest I've gone is 5K miles but my commute has become more traffic intensive and now falls under the severe schedule based on the manuals description. I have found this engine to be very stout. One thing i have noticed with mine is that it runs best on premium fuel. Not saying anyone elses does though. Who knows, even that might be in my head.

I say do your own research because there's a lot to learn, but mostly...enjoy the vehicle. Its a great ride.

wink.gif
 
2010 Hyundai 2.4L, 90K+ on the clock.
Fill cap has 5w-20 but been using PYB 5w-30 and 5K OCIs & OEM filters. I'd go 7.5k OCIs but I feel fine with PYB @ 5k OCIs, plus always easy to remember. I know, lame, but works for me.
I did do a few fills before with PP, but then I figured doing 5k OCIs, I once went to get PP and they were out of it, so PYB it became and stuck to it. Also did 5w-20 for winter once, but for no reason I just stuck to 5w-30 after the one winter.
 
We will be keeping this thing for 200k. This is the first D.I. engine I've ever owned.

There would be no problem running dealer oil changes every 5-6k?

They have a deal of 10 changes for $140. With the option of buying the deal one more time. That's 20 changes for $280.

Worth doing?
 
Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40
We will be keeping this thing for 200k. This is the first D.I. engine I've ever owned.

There would be no problem running dealer oil changes every 5-6k?

They have a deal of 10 changes for $140. With the option of buying the deal one more time. That's 20 changes for $280.

Worth doing?

If the dealer is close, I'd definitely do that. $140 for 10 changes is a deal - just be aware they will try and sell you something extra every time they see the car. Get a jug of top off oil at Walmart.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40
We will be keeping this thing for 200k. This is the first D.I. engine I've ever owned.

There would be no problem running dealer oil changes every 5-6k?

They have a deal of 10 changes for $140. With the option of buying the deal one more time. That's 20 changes for $280.

Worth doing?

If the dealer is close, I'd definitely do that. $140 for 10 changes is a deal - just be aware they will try and sell you something extra every time they see the car. Get a jug of top off oil at Walmart.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: MuzzleFlash40
We will be keeping this thing for 200k. This is the first D.I. engine I've ever owned.

There would be no problem running dealer oil changes every 5-6k?

They have a deal of 10 changes for $140. With the option of buying the deal one more time. That's 20 changes for $280.

Worth doing?


Sounds good. You may want to confirm they'll use an OEM Hyundai filter, though.
 
Originally Posted By: geekster
wemay did the GDI come in to existence on the 2.4 around 2011? And is that motor, GDI, vastly different from the non-GDI motor besides fuel delivery?


I know the Sonata has had this engine since the 2010 model year. Meaning it's been sold since late 2009.

Read this concerning the differences...

http://personales.upv.es/~jlpeidro/gdi/gdi.htm

http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/overseas/conference/pdf/conference12-19.pdf
 
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Doesn't Hyundai use an Oil Life Monitor on the dash? Maybe not. They should since it takes out the guesswork.
With that hiway driving, I'd go on a 6 month oil change interval, regardless of miles, using Castrol Edge gold jug or M1 Extended Performance. SuperTech full-syn would be OK too if you wanted to cheapen up a bit.
I would not pay for the oil changes in advance like that at the dealership, since they assume some people trade or sell the car in a few years. And, some of us don't trust dealerships or quickie-lube places to change our oil, being very careful or paranoid here.
 
my 2015 sonata says 5/20 on the oil cap. second 2.4 sonata I owned the 2010 was not a gdi engine this one is.great motor no problems with either.dealear recommends 5000 mile oil changes.
 
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Doesn't Hyundai use an Oil Life Monitor on the dash? Maybe not. They should since it takes out the guesswork.


Not an oil life monitor but the Santa Fe does have an oil change/maintenance minder which allows you to select the OCI intervals. The 2010-14 Sonata does not, or at least not in GLS trim. Not sure if the 2015- does. I would hope so.
 
5w30 full synthetic

2.4GDI has several class actions for excessive failures(or whining complaining owners that don't check/top off oil level regularly)

Synth will keep your cams, timing chain/tensioners, VVT ... happier.
5w30 will give you that extra 1-2pts in visc to make up for some fuel dilution(shouldn't be an issue with that commute).
 
Hi MuzzleFlash,

There has been a few threads here where the fuel dilution and associated oil volatility been one of the suspect causes of engine deposits and other problems with DI engines. Oil vapour via the PCV valve and intake manifold.

Some people use catch cans.

Other people run a less volatile oil. Heavier oils are less volatile, synthetic oils are less volatile.

MF40: "This is a D.I. engine, so what should I go with. 5W30 or 5w20 since the book says either or."

So I would use a full synthetic 5W30.

BTW in another thread BBHero just gave the NOACK numbers for Havoline Pro DS: "The Pro DS 5w30 its 13. The 10w30 Pro DS its 9"

You can see the 10W30 oil has a much lower NOACK Volatility than the 5W30.
Once out of warranty I would run a 10W30. Don't know how could it gets at your place, but 10W30 should be good down to 0F.

Enjoy your new car.
 
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