Changing rod bearings with the engine still in th

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Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: andyd
Why are you doing this? If a bearing is worn enough to knock, chances are the journal is worn. Wabbout using a heavier oil? It is possible to do the job. I replaced #4 rod and piston on an over heated Datsun that had detonated through the piston crown. The journal was ok and I re-used the original rod bearing. Good luck
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I'd like to know too. Seems like a major job for a band aid fix. Even if I were to do this, I almost think it'd be less labor overall to just remove the engine.

I'd rather run the engine to death, then rebuild.
I rolled new bearings into a 345 international after they were damaged when the oil pan got smashed. Got another 100k out of it before I sold it
 
Originally Posted By: flanso
There used to be available soft aluminum "pins" that fit in the crankshaft oiling hole when the cap was removed. Then you would turn the crank by hand and the protruding head of the pin would roll the top bearing shell onto the bottom of the crank for easier removal. The same technique was used to roll the new top bearing half into place. I used these things on a 427 Ford some 50 years ago.


Not soft and not aluminum, but properly sized cotter pins work for this procedure.
 
Gentlemen, Thank you for a great thread. I am just a shade tree hack. And I am heartened to know stuff like this works. Putting new shells in the M5 sixes was always a good idea. M20 lower ends rarely get overhauled unless abused. Most will survive a broken timing belt that wastes the valves.
 
I've done this on two of my Taurus SHOs. One V6 had a cracked bearing and was slightly knocking, oil light came on at idle when hot. The other was the V8 and they use aluminum bearings. More done as a curiosity thing. Pretty common on the older V6 SHOs though as they have a low pressure high volume oil system.

Don't use too much sealant if that is how the pan is gasketed. Sometimes with the glued on pans they are hard to get off.

Make sure all the oil pan bolts are out (obviously) and whack the pan with a mallet.
 
Hey everyone, I have another question.

When I take off the oil pan I'm presented with something that looks like a shell or casing on the engine underside.

https://youtu.be/DLHRpxCPvMQ

Am I supposed to attempt to remove this? or work around it? It looks like the rods are behind it so I am not sure.

Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: llmercll
Hey everyone, I have another question.

When I take off the oil pan I'm presented with something that looks like a shell or casing on the engine underside.

https://youtu.be/DLHRpxCPvMQ

Am I supposed to attempt to remove this? or work around it? It looks like the rods are behind it so I am not sure.

Thanks!


Remove it.
 
Just insert a cotter pin in the journal oil supply hole and rotate the crank. This will push the old bearing out as the crank is rotated. Install it the same way
 
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