38 inch Bolens Lawn Tractor transmission problem

[jrcowboys]

Guys:

My lawn tractor will not free wheel. By that I mean when I put it in neutral,with the parking brake off, and engine off, it can't be pushed. The transmission still works normally when driving it. With engine running, it doesn't move In neutral and works in forward and reverse, but will not free wheel with the engine off and parking brake off.

I normally free wheel it when I'm putting it in the shed. It appears the engine and transmission are still engaged when in neutral, but it doesn't move in neutral with the engine running.

Any thoughts, suggestions?

JR

 

[spasm3]

If its hydrostatic, somewhere there is a lever that can be pulled to freewheel it. If you have the model number, look up the owners manual online and see if you can find this.

 

[jrcowboys]

Guys:

Not hydro-static transmission. six speed with manual clutch.

 

[Lubener]

I have an old Bolens 1253 which was made in 1972. To manually push the tractor in neutral, I have to remove a large thick pin located on the inner side of one of the rear wheels.The pin is secured in place by a hair pin shaped retainer.

 

[jrcowboys]

In this case it appears the transmission is still engaged with the engine because I can feel the engine jerk when you try to move the tractor. Also, with engine running, it you attempt to free wheel the tractor the engine kind of backfires.

 

[caravanmike]

i have a 1971 bohlens model 1453. it has a worm drive transmission. it is not designed to roll in neutral. like someone above stated: to free wheel it you have to pull the pin on the rear axle.

 

[KD0AXS]

What kind of Bolens are we talking about here? Is it an older one from when a Bolens was really a Bolens, or is a newer one that's just a generic MTD mower with a Bolens decal on it?

 

[KD0AXS]

What kind of Bolens are we talking about here? Is it an older one from when a Bolens was really a Bolens, or is a newer one that's just a generic MTD mower with a Bolens decal on it?

 

[jrcowboys]

Its an MTD. Cheapest you can buy. My neighbor gave it to me when he moved to a smaller home/yard.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: jrcowboys
Its an MTD. Cheapest you can buy. My neighbor gave it to me when he moved to a smaller home/yard.


Given this, it's probably an MTD transmatic? If so, you'll have one lever for F-N-R and another for speed control. Total garbage setup.

Does it still travel under power when in neutral?

Worn variator sheave and/or stretched/worn belts throw this system off.

 

[steve20]

JT--can you elaborate on why you believe this is not the greatest trans setup? It eliminates any hydrostatic issues.
Lately in HD I've seen either JD or Cub now starting to offer (on the cheaper models)a transmission with this separate gear type of action----not sure if it the same as the trans on the MTD

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: steve20
JT--can you elaborate on why you believe this is not the greatest trans setup? It eliminates any hydrostatic issues.
Lately in HD I've seen either JD or Cub now starting to offer (on the cheaper models)a transmission with this separate gear type of action----not sure if it the same as the trans on the MTD


Steve, I have seen some promising looking "CVT" transaxles for riding mowers online. I haven't been following this stuff closely enough these days to know if any of the major players are using these.

My issue is specifically with the MTD transmatic drive system. I've owned one and repaired enough to have formed my hatred. LOL. In theory it's a good setup, it's just impossible to keep the center sheave on the variator pulley moving freely as time goes on. The center bushing corrodes or junks up, hindering free up/down movement of the center sheave. The other issue is, as belts wear and stretch, the system works less effectively as well.

OTOH, some of those conical CVTs and whatnot looked awesome to me as a hydrostatic alternative.

 

[steve20]

thanks for the follow up

 

[jrcowboys]

Guys:

Solved my problem, turns out the brake was rusted and would periodically stick. Best I could tell this is not truly a brake, but some kind of locking mechanism for the transmission. When you engage the brake it pulls a lever that "seems" to lock the transmission. This also causes starting problems because it would "load" the engine and the starter wouldn't kick the engine over.

I just basically freed up the lever with WD-40 and then applied some anti corrosion solution. Seems to be OK now.

Thanks for the help.

JR