Yamaha FZ8 and finding the right oil...

[badtlc]

I'm not much of a bike guy but my bro likes them and is on his 2nd bike. Since he usually comes to me about oils, filters, etc. I am trying to educate more about bike oils.

His bike is a shared sump which is obviously very tough on oil. His first run with this bike was Rotella T6. After about 2k miles, it started shifting rougher, especially downshifts. We changed it with fresh T6 and a Fram PH6017A this week and shifting was great again. I was disappointed to see the T6 didn't last too long.

On his previous bike (another yamaha, shared sump), we went with Rotella Triple T 15W-40 but he sold that bike before he had put enough miles on it to properly evaluate that fill. He wanted to do T6 on this bike because it is a nicer bike (wanted a "nicer" oil) and previous owner had used T6. He also likes to ride it in temps down to upper 30s so I figured having a 5W in there instead of 15W might be an OK idea.

From reading on this board, it seems like possibly the best choices for an oil that will go longer than 2-3k per OCI might be Rotella Triple T, Redline 10W-40 MC, Belray 10W-40. The redline uoas and OCIs posted here have looked amazing. Good enough to justify the insane price. I think there is one on this site who did 10k OCI in a shared sump with the redline and said it still shifted great.

How long should these oils be able to go and what others might be able to go longer than 2-3k miles without shearing badly?

Thanks.

 

[Ramblejam]

Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 is available on the shelf of your local Walmart for $9.97/quart.

 

[CT8]

15W-40 is a better oil as it probably has less viscosity improvers in it and at 30*f 15w is fine.

 

[FastGame]

I say stick with the Rotella 15W-40.

 

[dave123]

Redline 15 dollars a qt I don't call insane if it works pay to play.

 

[WANG]

I've used Rotella 15w40 and Amsoil MC 10w40("Metric bike" oil now, lol) extensively. These days it's synthetic in air cooled bikes and Rotella in water pumpers for me. So long as 15w40 is suitable vis for the FZ8, that's what I would use.


Here is a link to two UOAs that I did with Rotella and Amsoil in my F800S: Rotella and Amsoil UOAs

 

[QMartinez]

That Yamaha is never going to shift really smoothly compared to say Suzuki transmissions. I have lots of friends running cheap 10w40 with fram filters getting 100,000 miles and more without issues. Usually running 4000 miles between oil changes.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: FastGame
I say stick with the Rotella 15W-40.


That is my current stance too if nothing will hold up longer than 2-3k.

Will triple T do any better than T6? I know it has less VIIs to make it a bit more shear stable but it also has lower quality base stock.

I might have to get him some Redline 10W40 MC for his birthday or christmas. That stuff looks awesome and it makes an easy present.

 

[FastGame]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: FastGame
I say stick with the Rotella 15W-40.


That is my current stance too if nothing will hold up longer than 2-3k.

Will triple T do any better than T6? I know it has less VIIs to make it a bit more shear stable but it also has lower quality base stock.

I might have to get him some Redline 10W40 MC for his birthday or christmas. That stuff looks awesome and it makes an easy present.


Yes T 15W-40 holds up better than T6 in shared sump. My Concours 14 shears oil more than the FZ8, Rotella 15W-40 holds up well in the C14....but some C14, ZX14 riders are reporting 100k + miles running the T6 since they bought the bike.

That Redline would be a nice birthday or Christmas present.

 

[webfors]

Rotella T 15w40 for the win, unless you want to spend more.

 

[JetStar]

I've been running Rotella 15W-40 in my FZ1 (big brother to the FZ8) for several years. Right now I'm running the T5 semi-synthetic 15W-40, shift quality is good. And yes the FZ8 and FZ1 shift quality takes some getting used to and involves a little technique.

 

[Spooled]

I have. 2013 FZ8 and use a factory filter and 10W40 Valvoline motorcycle oil, non synthetic. It shifts fine and is the grade recommended by Yamaha. I know a lot of people use, suggest and have good luck with the Diesel 15w40 oils and that is great. I just feel more comfortable using a motorcycle specific oil for the simple fact that I have yet to see a Diesel street engine with an 11,500 rpm redline. I am not saying the diesel oil can't do it, I just don't believe that rpm and foaming are as critical in the manufacturers top requirements when formulating an oil for a Diesel engine versus a high rpm gas engine.

 

[CT8]

HDEO oils are the finest on the market. Foaming? look up HEUI injection. Diesel engines cost more than any motorcyle

 

[Spooled]

CT 8, you are certainly entitled to your opinion, but Deisel engines are not injecting the oils and jet engines cost more than Diesel engines, but that doesn't mean I would use jet oil in my bike. I am sure they are fine for some, just not me.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

I just finished servicing an customer FZ8 that was filled with Yama
Lube... he choose 5W30 Mobil 1 API SN instead of 15w40 Rotella API CJ4
after reading 540 RAT oil test where the Rotella was ranked #104
whereas the Mobil was ranked #10... cost wasn't a factor because they
about the same...
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

FZ8 owner was experiencing notchy shifting on Yama Lube but it wasn't
the oil it was clutch drag... your gears can't shift smoothly if your
clutch is part way engaged... here's how to check your clutch for
drag...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???

If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

After 25 years dealing with customers I think its not a question of
oil so much as a question of technique and clutch drag...

 

[WANG]

Many Diesel engines are turbocharged. Turbos spin pretty fast....

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted By: badtlc


How long should these oils be able to go and what others might be able to go longer than 2-3k miles without shearing badly?

Thanks.


Yamaha owners manual has stated OCI for the FZ8 is a short 4k miles or 6 months time... so don't fear the shear in that time period...

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: badtlc


How long should these oils be able to go and what others might be able to go longer than 2-3k miles without shearing badly?

Thanks.


Yamaha owners manual has stated OCI for the FZ8 is a short 4k miles or 6 months time... so don't fear the shear in that time period...


it isn't feared it is the poor shifting that results from the shearing that is not tolerable.

Thanks.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted By: badtlc


it isn't feared it is the poor shifting that results from the shearing that is not tolerable.

Thanks.


Something else is responsible because as oil shears 3 to 4 cSt in viscosity this small
amount is not enough to degrade good shifting into poor shifting according to the oil
companies and the manufacture... the fact is your gears can't shift smoothly if your
clutch is part way engaged... here's how to check your clutch for drag...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???

If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

After 25 years dealing with customers I think its not a question of
oil so much as a question of technique and clutch drag...

 

[badtlc]

There is no dragging. You can let it go.