Real world tests to show Amsoil is the best?

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Originally Posted By: ronp
Originally Posted By: kschachn
. 5. What oil is better than Mobil 1 for the price and what criteria are you using to claim "better"? Name some and give prices and details. 6. How does a bypass filtration system remove the "contamination" better than a stock filter said:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/graemlins/grin.gif[/IMG]


For the most part you don't know what you are talking about. All M1 oils have a base stock of several formulations, including PAO and esters. We also know that engines that have used M1 for their life stay very clean and show no signs of wear for hundreds of thousands of miles. As many of my engines have.
 
Originally Posted By: ronp
Ya amsoil should just get their better products certified and sale in the stores like all the others. They could just switch Their ss line and xl lines to grp 3 base oils like m1 and the rest and make more money selling in mass quantity at a lower price.

Or at least put their oe line in stores such are already probably on par with the others.
Many of the Amsoil products are sold at Fleet Farm stores in Wisconsin.
 
The owner of one of the bulk outlets I frequent
said that their oil was the second best.

So why would I pay good money for second best
when I could buy from a company down the road
claiming to have the best?
(whether it be engine oil or vacuum cleaners)

The answer is simple.

If there is no statistical (measureable) performance
difference between first and tenth place, then second
best a better price is best for me.
 
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My experience with amsoil.
I bought AMO 10W-40 high zinc and put it in my engine in april 2014. Its latest spec is API SJ, because of its high zinc and phos content. I find its NOACK is very low, I only lost very little oil over 8000km, and I ran the oil to 15000km, which was one year. When I sent the oil for analysis, I found it didn't reduce my piston and bearing wear, showing 25ppm iron and 23ppm lead. Everything else looked great though. The TBN went down to 4.7, which is pretty impressive. I am unsure if the iron and lead wear is an inherent problem with the engine itself or my fault in installing a 71C thermostat, I have since switched out to OEM 82C thermostat, and will be waiting till I hit the 10000km mark to send in a UOA for my current fill of API SN (pre pureplus) Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 which I bought on sale at Tesco.
I am unable to get a good filter in my country, except for the Amsoil, so I will be using Amsoil filters since the filtration shows up really good.
My take is, the Shell Helix seems to work just as good as the AMO, and my engine even seems quieter at startup, and I can get it at TESCO for RM140, and the amsoil filter RM72.
For the amsoil, I cannot get any discount, I will have to pay RM220 for AMO 10W-40 and RM72 for the filter.
Since I do not see any noticeable performance and protection advantage of AMO over Shell Helix Ultra, I will be going the route of Helix Ultra + Amsoil filter. My UOA results will be posted on BITOG when I get them.
So far I am really happy with the Helix Ultra SN performance in my 80s econobox, it is now at 5000km and still I don't see any oil loss on the dipstick.
 
[/quote] For the most part you don't know what you are talking about. All M1 oils have a base stock of several formulations, including PAO and esters. We also know that engines that have used M1 for their life stay very clean and show no signs of wear for hundreds of thousands of miles. As many of my engines have. [/quote]

My current understanding is that Mobil1 is not using esters and hasn't done for quite a while (maybe that has changed since their 0W40 coming out?).

I was recently told from a decent source that Amsoil now buys more PAO from Exxon Mobil than the Mobil1 group and that Amsoils' sales of SS has continued to steadily increas.

The hate for Amsoil here is kinda confusing and I can nvere really figure out what fuels it. It seems that some are freaked out by their business model, which does produce some less than ethical dealers. I personally think that Mobil is not even trying to compete with the SS line, they dont need to and Amsoil maintains its market share. It often seems that people here just want to find a way to bash Amsoil. There's more to it than just UOAs.

What makes no sense to me is that so many compare it to what you can get "off the shelf at Walmart" They have beyond massive buying power. A fairer comparison would be to auto parts stores, wouldn't it? As for Walmart, if you really cared about your fellow countrymen & women, you wouldn't shop there. They get away with some nasty stuff and need to be held accountable.
 
I used Amsoil almost exclusively for a decade with some red line and RP tossed in here and there.
Never had a single issue and when I re-cammed my z71 the internals were spotless after 100000 on the odo.
And oil changes cost me 100 bucks a pop
10000 mile intervals

Now I buy on sale synthetics. Same truck another 100000 later and the internals are still spotless,as well as every other engine I'm using on sale syn's in.
Oil changes cost me less than 50 bucks.
10000 mile intervals

So my real world experience using Amsoil for a decade is that is performed no different than the on sale syns I now use. Engines arent lasting any longer even though my out of pocket cost more than doubled.
I'm not trashing Amsoil. I like the products however they just don't pay off in longer engine life in my experience.
 
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I've read people trashing Amsoil users for having no certifications and then recommend their non certified ATF because of their personal experience with it.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: ExMachina
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
If I drive 25-30k mostly highway miles a year with a good/clean engine I would use Amsoil SS with good oil filter such as Fram Ultra and do 1 year OCI. But none of my car is driven more than 12-13k miles a year, any name brand synthetic is good for 1 year.

For transmission and gear fluid Amsoil may be the one to go to.


Any synthetic is good for one year, yes, but you want less acids and better oil quality (lubricity, wear) from start to finish of a 1-year oil change. Therefore, it always makes sense to use an Ext Perf oil or Amsoil SS since its built to hang in there longer.
In other words, do you just want your oil to barely make it, or still be looking good at the end of a long oil change interval? Oil wears out gradually, not all of a sudden.


This makes no sense to me
Dumping serviceable oil is ridiculous

Originally Posted By: ronp
Ya amsoil should just get their better products certified and sale in the stores like all the others. They could just switch Their ss line and xl lines to grp 3 base oils like m1 and the rest and make more money selling in mass quantity at a lower price.

Or at least put their oe line in stores such are already probably on par with the others.


You need to brush up on mobils PDFs because your idea of basestocks is incorrect and to be honest it's not even relevant.
A single component a formulation does not make. So focusing on one parameter like basestock is a fools errand and shows that you don't have even a basic understanding of how a lubricant works.


I don't need to brush up onm1 PDF I see the results from analysis and it indicates to me that m1 isn't anything special.just very available and they have the corner on the market.

I yet to see an m1 pds that gave any indication of what base stocks their using. The last I saw m1 uses 3% poam

That's pretty silly today base stock is irrelevant. In that case why don't m1 and others just us type 2 base stock and make it look all pretty with a fancy add pack.

They've come along way with hydocracked group3 base oils and vi improvers bit not that far.

Amsoil ss is overkill for 95% of its consumers im sure. Few ever use it to its full potential. I have no need for it. I actually have no need for synthetics period in my sump. In my at I feel its justified but were not really talking about ATF.
 
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Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Originally Posted By: ronp
Ya amsoil should just get their better products certified and sale in the stores like all the others. They could just switch Their ss line and xl lines to grp 3 base oils like m1 and the rest and make more money selling in mass quantity at a lower price.

Or at least put their oe line in stores such are already probably on par with the others.


If you've checked Exxon/Mobil is a bit larger. In fact Amsoil buys some of their stocks from that vary company. As of June 1, 2015 Exxon/Mobil is worth close to $450 billion dollars according to a London financial group. They could buy Amsoil out of their petty cash drawer.

Amsoil is sticking to their business plan and staying in their carefully crafted marketplace because they could not possibly compete in a larger or global market place.

Forget the oil for a moment and consider that Amsoil is well funded and doing well in tough times. When your skin is at risk you tend to stick with something that works and Amsoil is doing just that.


I dunno, how much bigger is/was royal purple. They put an oe product on the shelves. Seem to be doing fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: ronp
Mobile1 is mostly. Hydrcracked grp 3 oil base. Ofcourse Amsoil is superior and all group 4 base oil but unless u wanna installing a bypass system its gonna get contaminated just as fast and need changed. Of course you'll have to do the uoas or go crazy with concern with extended amsoil ocis. So I don't think its wort it. Dino at 5k oci offers me the best piece of mind and affordability. Or you could run a cheap synthetic like supertech for 7500 and be fine. Mobile1 isn't all that from what I've seen. Better synthetic oils out there for same price range.
Originally Posted By: ronp
Originally Posted By: kschachn
. 5. What oil is better than Mobil 1 for the price and what criteria are you using to claim "better"? Name some and give prices and details. 6. How does a bypass filtration system remove the "contamination" better than a stock filter said:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/graemlins/grin.gif[/IMG]


You do know that a used oil analysis isn't an accurate measure of wear right.
So your post is absolute nonsense and if you actually believe that you really have no business here.
Jmo


I do know that people have been using uoas for years to track wear.
You can track wear through multiple uoas well enough to know if something is wrong or needs changed.

The idea that uoas are only good for determining the suitability of a fluid is ignorant and false.
Somone should tell Blackstone and all the other outfits that their services are basically useless in that case.
You might want to let NASCAR know that they've been wasting their money all these years too.

I don't need to provide data to support my claim about elevated wear metal with m1. It's abundant and readily available with a simple google search.

It's probably not your job to determine weather or not I belong here.
As far as your opinion regarding that, well, you know what they say about people and their opinions.
Besides shouldn't somone so knowledgeable as yourself (lol) want to help some poor unlearned, uninformed fella like me learn to be as intelligent as you someday hahaha.
 
I guess M1 is a factory fill in many vehicles
because the elevated wear helps break-in.

Then of course, the engine manufactures would like
us to continue using M1, so we will be back
for a new vehicle sooner rather than later.

How did we all miss this obvious conspiracy?

Enlighten us ronp, what should those do that
have been tricked into using M1?
 
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Originally Posted By: used_0il
I guess M1 is a factory fill in many vehicles
because the elevated wear helps break-in.

Then of course, the engine manufactures would like
us to continue using M1, so we will be back
for a new vehicle sooner rather than later.

How did we all miss this obvious conspiracy?

Enlighten us ronp, what should those do that
have been tricked into using M1?



Uh...your the one talking about conspiracies, not me.
Your coming about as far from way out in left field as an earlier poster who stayed "show us data where a motor ever blew up because of m1". No you guys show me. Your the ones coming up with this stuff. I didn't say these things. I simply responded to the op post. Look at the tittle and his post. Also maybe look back through this thread and witness how very strange some of you, apparently offended, people are acting.
What is there some kinda m1 Possy here?
 
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Originally Posted By: ronp
The idea that uoas are only good for determining the suitability of a fluid is ignorant and false.
Somone should tell Blackstone and all the other outfits that their services are basically useless in that case.
You might want to let NASCAR know that they've been wasting their money all these years too.

You are blurring the lines on what's an acceptable way to interpret the data and what is not. No one said Blackstone is useless, or that racers don't use UOAs. They don't use UOAs to compare one lube to another. You haven't a prayer at determining wear in different lubes by comparing UOAs. You don't have evidence of this elevated "wear metal" with M1, since they aren't exactly wear metals, and the way to determine wear is through a teardown.

No, it's not Clevy's job to determine whether or not you belong here. I do, however, suggest that the moderators have banned your previous iterations and it is their job. So, in fact, if it was Clevy's job, you'd disregard his position anyhow.
 
Originally Posted By: stchman
Here are some YouTube videos

-40 oil pour
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ_vxdO_9nc

In each test Mobil 1 had the best cold pour of the other oils.


The M1 "initially" poured faster, but the Amsoil caught up AND totally finished faster.

Plus, he tipped the M1 first, before the Amsoil.

Walmart Oil at -40 ----->
37.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: ronp
The idea that uoas are only good for determining the suitability of a fluid is ignorant and false.
Somone should tell Blackstone and all the other outfits that their services are basically useless in that case.
You might want to let NASCAR know that they've been wasting their money all these years too.

You are blurring the lines on what's an acceptable way to interpret the data and what is not. No one said Blackstone is useless, or that racers don't use UOAs. They don't use UOAs to compare one lube to another. You haven't a prayer at determining wear in different lubes by comparing UOAs. You don't have evidence of this elevated "wear metal" with M1, since they aren't exactly wear metals, and the way to determine wear is through a teardown.

No, it's not Clevy's job to determine whether or not you belong here. I do, however, suggest that the moderators have banned your previous iterations and it is their job. So, in fact, if it was Clevy's job, you'd disregard his position anyhow.


No , no "previous iterations" of mine been banned.

You suggest I would disregard his position were he a moderator because??? What because he doesn't like it when I say something he disagrees with. That would actually be sorta tyrannical wouldn't it.
It's gonna be ok guys. Even if not everybody shares your enthusiasm for something as minute as motor oil brand.
I'm out, this has actually become gross and wierd and actually quite disturbing. I'm truly concerned for some of you.
 
There is no question Amsoil is a fine oil, well made and robust. Most likely cant go wrong using it.

But to answer the OP, you can use any oil certified for your vehicle and make sure to change at the recommended intervals or sooner.

One other misconception, Amsoil like most all so called synthetics is not a true group IV oil. Its made of the same group III as most others. Their is a signature series Amsoil that is a true synthetic, as I understand anyway.
But who cares? Read your manual and use what you are supposed to.
 
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Originally Posted By: ronp
You suggest I would disregard his position were he a moderator because??? What because he doesn't like it when I say something he disagrees with. That would actually be sorta tyrannical wouldn't it.

I suggest you disregarded the position of a mod who banned a previous iteration, so if Clevy were a mod and banned you, you'd ignore his position on banning you, and sockpuppet your way back in.

If you're out, that's fine. Do some reading. No one in the field picks at parts per million to compare the use of two completely different lubes in use. That includes Formula 1 and NASCAR. The primary use of UOAs is to determine whether a lube is suitable for continued use, and claiming otherwise doesn't change that.
 
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
OP if you want a group iii oil similar to Mobil 1 the OE and XL lines are not really anymore expensive. Preferred customer prices are less than $5 a quart.


Hey can you show us where M1 is a predominately Group III oil? Thanks.

Also your $5/quart price is meaningless when you factor in your PC cost and shipping, if applicable.
 
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