Oil for a Direct Injection engine?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
You just get past the filter and spray away? What product do you think works best and what quantity?


Yes, remove intake duct from engine throttle body and with engine running - spray in bursts. I use the whole can. Best with somebody holding the gas pedal to prevent stalling since the duct is off. Don't over do it...keep engine about 2000rpm and spray in 2 second bursts. All the cleaner goes right over the valves and cleans everything in it's path. You could also just pull a vac line and suck some seafoam or top engine cleaner for the same net effect.
 
Valvoline Nextgen Green Bottle 5w20/5w30 gets my vote on this one. Along with a conservative oci of 4k-5k. VWB seem to do just fine for 5k in a V6 DI motors. I recommend nextgen only cause its almost always on sale and you'll be green too !
grin.gif
 
Mfrs have tried using additional injectors upstream for some added fuel to wash the valves.
There is indeed a problem. Some better some far worse.
 
Toyotas official explanation of its combined DI PFI system was variances in cylinder filling with each type having an optimal rev range and throttle opening.
 
I admit that I haven't done a search on this yet, but I wanted to ask:

Is there a risk of messing up the cat converter by using something like SeaFoam to clean the intake valves? My concern is due to all the [censored] that comes off the valves has to pass though the converter on its way out.

I guess the valves would have to be really dirty to screw up the cat converter, but hey, I figured it's a reasonable question...

Any thoughts on this subject?
 
I have a 2011 Kia Optima with a 2.4 l DI engine. The folks on the Kia forum suggested using a catch can. I installed one after about 1000 km on the vehicle. At the first oil change I checked the can and it had less than one teaspoon of a fuel/oil mixture. At 5000 km it was about two tablespoons and my last oil change at 15000 had at least five tablespoons removed.
I don't know if using a catch can will limit deposits on the valves, but I am glad that the mixture is not being burned in my engine.
 
Originally Posted By: TheOtherGoose
I admit that I haven't done a search on this yet, but I wanted to ask:

Is there a risk of messing up the cat converter by using something like SeaFoam to clean the intake valves? My concern is due to all the [censored] that comes off the valves has to pass though the converter on its way out.

I guess the valves would have to be really dirty to screw up the cat converter, but hey, I figured it's a reasonable question...

Any thoughts on this subject?


It's safe. The carbon won't hurt as it is burned out the exhaust.
 
Originally Posted By: poiuy223
If you fill with premium, you can feel the extra power on the wheels as well as see the increase in MPG. If I use 87, I would probably get about 24-25 MPG with the way I drive. With 91, I'm getting at least 27 MPG. Acceleration is smoother as well and much more quieter. I think 87 gave me knocking sounds when I used it.



For the Hyundai turbos, and any turbo with DI in particular, you will need a higher octane fuel. The compression in the 2.0T Sonata is low.

For example, in my Accent, the compression ratio is 11.0:1. In a Veloster Turbo (same 1.6L DI engine), the compression has been tuned down to less than 9:1 (don't remember the exact number). Of course, other than the difference in ratio I believe there different internals in the engine, etc. that is associated with having a turbo engine.

So yeah, run high octane if you like wide open throttle.

Fuel dilution dissipates when the oil gets to normal operating temperature from what I have read.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Originally Posted By: poiuy223




For the Hyundai turbos, and any turbo with DI in particular, you will need a higher octane fuel.


Agree.

The compression in the 2.0T Sonata is low.


9.7:1 is not low, lol! Most OEM motors prior to 2000 would be proud to be up there. Heck, even the hottest LS-1 motor GM had in 1998 was 10.1 to 1. But then add 17.6 pounds of boost on top? That's not low. And why the 2.0T can make 88% of the hp of a 5.7 NA.


For example, in my Accent, the compression ratio is 11.0:1.

The skyactiv guys can boast a few more... :)

In a Veloster Turbo (same 1.6L DI engine), the compression has been tuned down to less than 9:1 (don't remember the exact number)

If you can take the time to type not remembering, you can take the time to be accurate, lol! And you're wrong, it's not below 9:1, it's 9.5:1
cool.gif



Of course, other than the difference in ratio I believe there different internals in the engine, etc. that is associated with having a turbo engine.

So yeah, run high octane if you like wide open throttle.

Fuel dilution dissipates when the oil gets to normal operating temperature from what I have read.
 
Last edited:
From what I've been reading, you want an oil with a low sulfated ash %. The current line of Mobil 1 oils have a SA of .8, which is the lowest among all the full synthetics on the market. This helps keep deposits under control.

I would also think Mobil 1 ESP would be a good choice, although the HT/HS of the 5w30 is 3.58, much higer than most fuel economy based 5w30's.

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-esp

SA of ESP 5w30 is .6%.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
From what I've been reading, you want an oil with a low sulfated ash %. The current line of Mobil 1 oils have a SA of .8, which is the lowest among all the full synthetics on the market.

And M1 ESP 5w-30 has SA of 0.6%.

By the way, this thread is more than 2 years old, buster.
smile.gif
 
LOL I know, i've just been thinking about this lately after reading an article someone posted about SA and DI engines. Plus I currently have a Skyactiv engine. I'm sticking with M1 simply bc it does have a lower SA than most other synthetics.

Our local Mazda dealer offers a BG service for DI engines for cleaning out intake deposits. I'd like to keep them to a bare minimum and not have to use that down the line. I've even thought about using Mobil 1 ESP 5w30.
 
Originally Posted By: Leonardo629
A picture is worth 1,000 words, UOA from my direct injected Accord

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3504599/1

So yeah, I guess I'm recommending TGMO 0W20 or M1 EP/AFE 0W20


It's the internal deposits you have to watch for and that's something that wont' show up via a UOA. However, M1 AFE has a SA of only .8 which is great. Not sure about TGMO but that is ok to use too. I' wouldn not use Amsoil SS which has about 3,700ppm of Calcium.
 
Per XOM:

Quote:
Thanks for your message, Mike. We appreciate the feedback. A slight reduction in ash is desirable for advanced engine technology such as gasoline direct injection (GDI) engine and passenger car diesel engines. With GDI engines, higher levels of ash appear to result in a higher occurrence of Low Speed Pre-Ignition. The industry is currently developing tests and specifications to address Low Speed Pre-Ignition. In the future, passenger car engine oil specifications such as ILSAC GF-6 and dexos1 (next generation) are likely to have requirements such as lower ash to address Low Speed Pre-Ignition.

As for TBN retention, it is only a single parameter that provides an indication of the used oil condition. A reduction in TBN is an indication that the overbased detergent is doing its job by neutralizing acids that form as a result of combustion. TBN should be used in combination with other used oil parameters such as oxidation, nitration, TAN (Total Acid Number), ICP metals, D4684 MRV viscosity, and D445 kinematic viscosity to determine the overall condition of the used oil.

Finally, in our experience in severe-service Las Vegas field testing, Mobil 1 engine oil TBN levels typically do not drop below 2 for vehicles with 15,000 mile oil drain intervals. Furthermore, it is our experience that those oils tend not to drop any lower when we continue to 20,000 mile oil drains.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

B
Conventional oil direct injection
2
Replies
24
Views
2K
kschachn
M
Direct Inject Turbo car with 125k miles and short commute, what's best?
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
MVAR
Z
Should I expect nasty black smelly oil?
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
edyvw
C
Classic vs Modern Engine Break-In
Replies
9
Views
537
vpr5703
O
Saps and their affect on direct injection
Replies
11
Views
2K
buster
Back
Top