Would a coolant filter make a difference to a UCA?

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Part numbers....

Filter base - NAPA 4019 or Wix 24019

Filter - short NAPA 4069 or Wix 24069
long NAPA 4070 or Wix 24070
The 70 is an inch longer...
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
My Taurus had debris floating in the system even after recent flushes so I put a decent sized metal fuel filter on the pressurized overflow tank right before the coolant dumps into the tank with the supplied small rubber house and clamps and now already the floating debris is all gone after very few miles on it but all the sediment is still sitting in the bottom of the tank.

I have went WOT many times and the filter seems fine still. I'd like to open this suckers sometime but it's going to stay for now.


This thread has peaked my interest for a while now. What would you use for a filter if you didn't have a pressurized overflow tank and wanted to cut into a heater hose for example? I saw inline filters but the cost seemed very high for what they were offering? I saw garden hose strainers that looked like they'd plug up in no time flat. Thanks


its expensive but look at IPR coolant filters. i put one in my car because it doesnt have a pressurized overflow, but it was a lot of money. i bought my car and the coolant was black. someone mixed green coolant, honda coolant and dexcool in it and it had all chunks floating in it. also gave me bad chemical burns when i changed the coolant which i have never gotten before from any of the may cars i have worked on. i drained the system twice but it still was black so i bought the filter kit. in addition to the black junk there was a lot of sand. look at pictures of opened up coolant filters online. guys put them on their diesel trucks after they already have 300 or 400,000km with proper coolant drains and still fill 2 filters full of sand. to me its cheaper than changing a water pump or heater core (after just doing a heater core) and changing my expensive honda coolant 10 times and still having junk in there.
i cleaned my filter at 7000km or something because of reduced heater output (it got plugged with the fine black floaties). you cant see the fine black stuff but theres aluminum and sand in this photo. i didnt realize it was plugged untill i blew air through it and it turned the shop floor black...
picture doesnt look like much but i think it mostly plugged off with the fine black junk within a few hours of driving-judging by the heater output drop- and didnt see much flow after. there was a lot of sand in the canister and elsewhere in the filter but i dont feel like uploading 100 photos..
bhgg9f.jpg

eh17c5.jpg
 
all those look good. i just bought Fram FR10-1 and a FR10 coolant filter. used of course. from EBay. dont have the second one yet. two target vehicles. 2001 dakota V6, toyota Avalon V6, 08.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Less than 100 miles over two weeks of short trips ruined the plastic filter. It was fine until I did some full throttle runs to see if it would implode, it did get very wavy at full load and shortly after the next day the element came loose.

In this short time it loaded the filter good. I might do it again for the quick cleanup.

First picture is the day of the install, rest are of the removal after failure.

2cd7upe.jpg





Seemed to catch stuff, but I wouldn't have expected it to be very effective there.

I'm assuming a pressurised tank (never had one IIRC) works the same as an un-pressurised tank (except being pressurised, of course)

IF this is true, excess fluid expands into the tank through the filter as the radiator heats up, but when the engine is shut off that excess is drawn back into the radiator.

I'd expect crud trapped by the filter on the inflow to be washed off again on the outflow.

What am I missing, and if the tank being pressurised makes a difference, why does it make a difference?

(IF I'm correct in thinking flow does reverse through the filter, a bypass and a couple of non-return valves might be worthwhile.)
 
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