CV boot slinging grease

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@Hokiefyd:

Whenever possible (so long as the original shaft CV joints are still in good shape, no wear due to introduction of moisture and dirt, etc.), I'd typically reboot them and use them until the vehicle changes hands.

My reasoning are as follows:

(1) Unless the shaft is of inferior quality to begin with, most shafts, even aftermarket reman/replacement ones (to a certain degree), their properly induction-hardened joints exhibits very, very minimal wear.

The only exception to the rule (I've encountered so far) would be those in high load/high output applications similar to Honda Ridgeline, or Caravan, etc. where there may be a slight possibility of elevated wear (during normal operation).

(2) most factory shafts (citing Japanese made ones and some NA OE supplied ones for TOy, Honda, Nissan, etc.) quality are very good, and properly balanced before they are out of the factory.

(3) so long as there's no accelerated/abnormal wear to the properly sealed joints, almost all factory joints (with care), can be repacked/reboot and used again with great confidence.

I have done enough CV joint reboots to come to such conclusion.

Most shop mech these days are obliged to do RE-n-RE with a reman shaft (get the customer to buy-in for the upfront appeal for lower RE-n-RE total cost + cheeper remain-shaft cost), and the quality of reman shaft is simply all over the place, period.

Q.

in summary: simply reboot/re-clamp with fresh new clamps and yours should be fine for along, long, long time.
 
Fresh gease and clamps. Why on earth would anyone let an OEM shaft die just to replace it with a reman or junk aftermarket, when some preventative maintenance would keep the OEM part alive for the life of the car.

The shaft would not even need to be removed to do any of this.
 
I'm sure Honda/Acura has a boot kit for it. OEMs almost always offer a boot kit that has the clamps and boot. They may not sell the OEM clamps by themselves...might have to get the whole boot kit just to get those.

GM boot kits are pretty retardedly priced, like $150 for a single boot and two clamps, but IIRC, Kia/Hyundai and Mitsubishi are pretty cheap, so hopefully Honda/Acura aren't too crazy.
 
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
I'm sure Honda/Acura has a boot kit for it. OEMs almost always offer a boot kit that has the clamps and boot. They may not sell the OEM clamps by themselves...might have to get the whole boot kit just to get those.

GM boot kits are pretty retardedly priced, like $150 for a single boot and two clamps, but IIRC, Kia/Hyundai and Mitsubishi are pretty cheap, so hopefully Honda/Acura aren't too crazy.



Holy price tag batman! My Integra's OEM rebuild axles with new joints are only $160 ea!
 
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Originally Posted By: PandaBear
The autoparts store axles are usually not that great in quality and would likely last not as long as leaving the existing axles in place.

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I have worked in a retail parts store, and would not use an aftermarket axle assembly.

I've always changed boots, but if I ever have to buy a new axle, what are some good brands when OEM costs a lot more? (RockAuto lists GM AC Delco at $250, other brands $60) What brands should I avoid? I've heard that NAPA and PepBoys are by Cardone.

I'm worried about ending up with aftermarket axles having joints that were refurbished like this (3:46 into this video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrAWzmdCXWI

Doesn't honing the slots by hand like that cause the balls to share the load unevenly?
 
I'd get new clamps. The boot shrinks a tiny bit/or the clamp looses tension causing a little grease to come out. Put on new clamps & be done in minutes..
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It takes special tools to put the clamps on. For me it was cheaper to buy new axles.


You can get band clamp pliers for 15 or 20 dollars, where did you get a whoLe new driveshaft replete with inner and outer CVs for less than the cost of the pliers?
 
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