Check Engine light after replacing PCV valve?

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Hi, I replaced the PCV valve on my LX450 today. The check engine light came on after about half hour of driving after having installed the new one. The old PCV valve was metal (Fram I think). The new one was a Beck Arnley (hard plastic). I double checked everything and the new PCV valve is in there tight. I felt it clck in there when I was installing the new one, then tapped it down lightly with handle of screw driver for good measure. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I don't have a code reader right now. Only thing I noticed was that it was idling a little a rough for the first 15 minutes after I installed new one. The idle seemed to get better as I drove more, but then the check engine light came on suddenly.
 
Got to know what the code is for. Parts stores will read it for free.

If it's a lean code, maybe a crack in the hose got opened up when you replaced the valve.
 
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I thought beck Arnley always just resells OEM manufactured parts. All their stuff I have ever gotten for this car were made by Denso. It seemed like a quality part. But on 2nd thought maybe I should've gotten OEM one.
 
That's one thing I did notice that hose was very brittle... The outside of the hose was almost falling apart, as I reseated the clamp.
 
replace anything that is deemed crummy/brittle/cracked between the air inlet all the way to the PCV valve (if it seats inside a grommet on the valve cover, by all means, replace that rubber grommet as well).

Then re-check for codes again (most likely a vacuum leak).

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Hessam
That's one thing I did notice that hose was very brittle... The outside of the hose was almost falling apart, as I reseated the clamp.


Like Quest, this makes me suspect a vacuum leak. Make sure the PCV hose and grommet are in good shape and that all connections are well-sealed. I once found a crack in a y-splitter that was causing a vacuum leak.

hotwheels
 
Originally Posted By: Hessam
I felt it clck in there when I was installing the new one, then tapped it down lightly with handle of screw driver for good measure. Any help would be appreciated.



I would suspect you over-torqued it ("click"), then you cracked it wider with the screw driver tap.

When you are threading dissimilar materials together, you treat it like delicate surgery. I wasn't there, but based on your helpful and detailed description, I would see if you did not break the replacement PCV as a very first diagnostic step.

Might not be what you meant, but sounds worth revisiting to me.

Then replace hardened hoses, so cheap by the foot at the auto store.
 
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Could be a bad valve or you damaged something else while you were digging around. Besides the cracked hose, which you should replace i would give a good look over the engine bay and see if you have any other hoses that look disconnected or loose.


If you do have a vacuum leak you can use carb/choke cleaner or starting fluid to spray around the hoses/seals on a cold engine and if the idle changes you might have found your leak. It's good to have a helper for this and be careful where you spray it's partially dangerous in foolish hands but works like a charm.
 
You might have damaged something removing it, as well as created a vacuum leak. Without codes you're pretty much in the dark. Once you pull codes I would still check for vacuum leaks.
 
Recently I found Beck reboxes a lot of low quality parts. It used to be they would almost always rebox an OEM part or if not, a quality AM part. Now it is hit or miss. They are just a parts marketer. Buy an OEM valve or if you can find it, the manufacturer that makes the pcv.
 
Sometimes the OEM will discontinue one replacement part, and have a completely different replacement part to take its place. This might explain why you replaced a metal PCV valve with a plastic one.
 
Step one: Reinspect all prior work- look for cracks, kinks, tears and so on.

Step two: Have code read.

Step three: Report back with what you know.
 
Still no clue what the code was, but there was definitely a crack on the hose going from the PCV to the manifold. The dealer wanted $20 for the hose, so I just used some electrical tape and wrapped it all the way around the entire hose to seal any cracks for now. It definitely fixed the issue, and the check engine light cleared within a few minutes of fixing the crack, and the idle smoothed out perfectly as well. It's on my list of parts to replace, but for now the electrical tape fix will have to do, as there are more pressing issues which need attention on the truck. The power steering steering pump died a few weeks ago, and I have been looking for a good quality one at a decent price.... for the past couple weeks I have been driving it without power steering which is a real pain the [censored] for this truck...
 
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