Oil For New Bike

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Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Better HTHS by .1 is hardly measurable in the gravity flow test of oil... higher index
by 6 is means little when anything over the viscosity index of 110 is considered very high...


"gravity flow test"...for HTHS ?

You're pulling my leg aren't you...?

If you are rationally comparing the two oils, you would pick the 5W30 unless you needed the 0W part, at which point I doubt you would be scooting in.

If you choose the oils based on
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Between Mobil 1 30 grade oils the 0w30 is the most current and advance


then clearly you can discredit actual metrics, because the 0W has you all shiney eyed.

Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Its not plain... where do you see the level of VIIs???


Surely with a comprehensive understanding of the topic, you can intuit what's likely to have more polymers in it than not...i.e. SAE30 doesn't 10W30 has some, 5W30 has more, 0W30 has much more...it's pretty obvious.

Google VII, and Afton have some great data sheets showing how their VIIs affect lubricants.

Here's a Mobil synthetic blending guide (not a recipe for Mobil 1), just indicative recipes for different grades using Mobil's Spectrasyn basestocks.

Mobil%20Viscosity%20Mix.jpg


the 0W30 recipe has a basestock viscosity (gravity if you will) of around 5.2cst, and 7% VII polymers.

the 5W30 recipe has a basestock viscosity of 6.9 cst, and 2.8% polymer additives.

So...
0W30 has 2.5 times the polymers to shear
0W30 has 25% lower viscosity basestock to back it up after they DO shear.
0W30 has nearly 5% less actual oil in the sump (replaced by polymers)

You can get back to hydrodynamics, flow, and lubrication at any time too, you keep forgetting to track that part.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow


You can get back to hydrodynamics, flow, and lubrication at any time too, you keep forgetting to track that part.


I'll think about it but first answer my question...

"Looks good on paper but give me your best mile marker my engine wears out under the
protection of 0w30???"
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow


You're pulling my leg aren't you...?


No cager... I'm ripping your ears off on the perverted highway...

275924291_06ce8ee0c2.jpg
 
OK Shannow we had our fun now back on topic... if you owned a GSXR 1000 what grade oil would
you recommend 30 40 50 and why???
 
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Originally Posted By: Analyzer
This is Mobil's product specifications guide showing the difference between your highly espoused AFE 0W30 and Mobil's motorcycle oil in 10W40 & 20W50 viscosities.


Thanks Anal I saved it... but this thread is not about my 0W30... its about the recommend
for the OPs GSXR 1000... I suggested a 30 grade MC specific oil... whats is yours???
 
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Firstly, I'd find what the OEM recommended viscosity is.

Only online manuals I've found say 10W40, with 20W50 an option, and (10W30 for a limited temperature range).

Not personally a big fan of 10W40, but with the 2013 changes to J300, and the 10W40 now requiring an HTHS of 3.5 rather than the previous 2.9, I might be converted.

Would want a full strength additive package, not one watered down by ILSAC requirements to protect catalytic converters for the life on a car with 1qt/1,000 mile consumption.

I'd want something sans friction modifiers, either a motorcycle oil proper, or something that meets Alison C4.

Would want a minimum of VII, as the gearbox will make short work of even the strongest PCMO VII polymers.

Given what I can get around here, the aforementioned Penrite Racing 10W40 would be most likely (It's $70 for 5L, bike specific oils are around $90-$100)...If I was in the US, I'd probably have a crack at Amsoil 10W30 synthetic motorcycle oil
 
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: rraiderr
Suzuki says 20W-50 is fine, it is listed in the manual as an option similar to the Honda posting above.


Thanks but I researched my Gixxer manual before I spoke... It tickles my funny bone to
see the cager dig up motorcycle facts...

I believe if there is one thing an owner has control over its the viscosity of their
oil... so whether you choose the 20w50 option or the 10w30 option there is mounting
evidence that both will meet or exceed your track and mileage expectations... the only
difference you'll note will be the amount of RWHP judge by the seat of your pants... if
you Dyno your bike you'd see that a 50wt cost about 6 RWHP versus a 30wt... 6 RWHP is
about the gain of an after market pipe or pin point fuel mapping... 6 RWHP is a lot to
think about in unnecessary oil drag...

I know with oil comes feelings that grow out of scary thoughts and often become a barrier
to over come but isn't tackling a track on a motorcycle at speed all about facing your
fears and over coming barriers???

True to their racing heritage Gixxers are popular at track days... ask around the pits
about Suzuki's 10w30 option...



I am in the loop on the thinner oils at the track, been tracking bikes since the late 80's along with the following car series SCCA, IMSA and drag racing.

Lot's of the race teams are running thin oils, its been going on for years.

Never said anything about 10W-30 not working.

I was looking for recommendations on what conventional oil for break in.

Based on past UOA's and visual inspections from tear downs I am very happy with the results of the Amsoil 20W-50 product and well as the Maxima ultra and extra products.

I have no doubt the 10W-30 would protect just fine, I have a good comfort level from the Amsoil 20W-50 so I stick with it.

I try lot's of new products and suspension setups so I would not say I have any fears trying new stuff but when I find something I really like I stick with it. Brake pads are one example, the Vesrah SRJL XX brake pad works great for me.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
If I was in the US, I'd probably have a crack at Amsoil 10W30 synthetic motorcycle oil


I gave it a crack in Mr.RC45 and it did not out perform Mobil 1 0w30... my UOA
numbers were:

641 miles (track speeds) Asmoil MCT cSt 9.6 (Aluminmum 15ppm) (iron 10ppm) $12.95 qt

700 miles (track speeds) M1 0w30 cSt 9.8 (aluminmum 12ppm) (iron 11ppm) $5.40 qt

Out of respect to the OP lets not start another debate here... go to my updated Oil Gauge Mod thread...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3606896/Oil_Gauge_Mod...#Post3606896
 
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Shannow... never mind going to the updated thread... I posted it
up as a new thread in this forum and the UAO forum to avoid any confusion...
 
Originally Posted By: rraiderr
I don't want to use OEM Suzuki oil, looking for something I can get at Walmart or autoparts store.

Rotella of course for your walmart desires.
 
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