Extremely confused regarding coolant for Hyundai

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The first time I flushed out my Kia Optima (Hyundai Sonata clone) I used Prestone all makes/all models.

When I went to do it again I asked here to make sure I was using the right stuff. I got a lot of great suggestions but couldn't find many of the products people mentioned. I went with Prestone again and so far so good.

So mine has been good for around 60k with Prestone - no cooling system trouble. And I can pick up a bottle nearly anywhere if I ever need to top off.
 
I've got a 2003 Santa Fe and have used green coolant since I got it in 2005. That's what was in it when I got it. I drain/refill the radiator every 2 years. I have almost 200K miles on it now and never an issues related to the cooling system. Everything looks great and runs great. I don't think it needs to be over-thought on a Hyundai.
 
I'm not sure what the difference would be between the desire to use OE or OE type AF in a Hyundai/Kia then say a Toyota or Honda. As the Beck Arnley AF chart linked on page one illustrates the H/K oem type AF is a no silicate Asian PHOAT that just happens to be green in color. That makes it similar to Toyota red and previous Nissan green.

While a silicate original green may work adequately, doesn't mean it's OE spec. Imo, wanting to use an OE type AF in an H/K no different than any other Asian vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: Smcatub
The first time I flushed out my Kia Optima (Hyundai Sonata clone) I used Prestone all makes/all models.

When I went to do it again I asked here to make sure I was using the right stuff. I got a lot of great suggestions but couldn't find many of the products people mentioned. I went with Prestone again and so far so good.

So mine has been good for around 60k with Prestone - no cooling system trouble. And I can pick up a bottle nearly anywhere if I ever need to top off.


This. I really don't understand all the hysteria over antifreeze. Prestone and Peak wouldn't sell antifreeze labelled "All Makes, All Models" if it will kill your engine. From what I've read, the Dexcool fiasco was due to incompatible gaskets, anyway. They're in business to make money, not pay lawsuits.

I also see people talking about 2 year formulas, 5 year formulas, etc. How about just draining your radiator once a year, every spring or fall? It's only $15, max, people. Do it once a year, and you'll never have to worry about it.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
And you are a quality OP thread starter. In my observations, some start a thread, ask questions never to return for follow up. Your post seemed sincere so took a shot at addressing each point as best I could. Glad you read it and found it useful.

As for ZAF, I picked it out of the other LL Asian PHoats because it's usually significantly less expensive than dealer sold oem AFs. Two things I don't prefer about it is, one it's a premix which means half water and best for a single rad d&f. But that's the same with the dealer sold oem Asian LL's like Honda Type2 and the new Nissan LL which are more expensive. The other is the red tint, which matches Toyota AF ok, others not so much. But that is a minor consideration.

As an aside, I've done the multiple distilled d&f (on a Civic) till runs clear or close followed by Honda Type2 d&f's till ~50% concentration, confirmed by 5 an inexpensive 5 ball AF tester. That was after the stealership used original green with a head gasket replacement. Other than leave the o-green in which I wasn't going to do, I had no choice. Took less than two gallons of Type2 to achieve the concentration. The new PepBoys OEM brand LL Asian concentrate would have been ideal in that case. And they make it in all four colors to match the oem AF's and ~$20/gal.


I was wondering if those 3 dollar coolant ball testers really work. I'll pick one of those up for my toolbox.

The ZAF was the coolant of choice I used in my Vibe that turned out to be a Corolla/Matrix clone. I swear at that time of using ZAF it was a full strength. I seem to recall buying distilled water at that time. Now, you cannot locate it full strength. Hmmm.

The Hyundai dealer wants 22 dollars per gallon for coolant plus tax. This is for the non-extended life stuff.

As an aside, the vehicle just underwent a timing belt replacement, but no the water pump as it wasn't recommended to change by the dealer. Would that process have involved changing out coolant?
 
Originally Posted By: mrdctaylor
I've got a 2003 Santa Fe and have used green coolant since I got it in 2005. That's what was in it when I got it. I drain/refill the radiator every 2 years. I have almost 200K miles on it now and never an issues related to the cooling system. Everything looks great and runs great. I don't think it needs to be over-thought on a Hyundai.


Point well taken. My problem is that I seldom have time to do stuff like this. My wife and I have four job combined. When I am doing car stuff I am not working and making money. The 4 or 5 year coolants appeal to me because of this.
 
Originally Posted By: Vibe_2007
....I was wondering if those 3 dollar coolant ball testers really work. I'll pick one of those up for my toolbox.....

When I had to do the complete original green to Honda Type 2 exchange, bought the Chaslyn 5ball AF tester at WM. Tested it first against new Type 2 premix, on the mark. Iirc it was less than $2 at WM. O'R has it for ~$2 Had to take the more expensive Deka pointer AF tester I bought first at Napa back. It was way off.

As for ZAF, I never recall it being anything other than a premix.

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Originally Posted By: sayjac
Originally Posted By: Vibe_2007
....I was wondering if those 3 dollar coolant ball testers really work. I'll pick one of those up for my toolbox.....

When I had to do the complete original green to Honda Type 2 exchange, bought the Chaslyn 5ball AF tester at WM. Tested it first against new Type 2 premix, on the mark. Iirc it was less than $2 at WM. O'R has it for ~$2 Had to take the more expensive Deka pointer AF tester I bought first at Napa back. It was way off.

As for ZAF, I never recall it being anything other than a premix.


That's the one I saw. Looked almost toy like so I passed on it, not considering that it actually might work.
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Keep it simple. Get zerex asian formula, do a couple drop and fills, yiu will have about 75% fresh coolant. Unless the stuff already in there was really nasty, then do a third drop and fill. I have used ZAF since 60k in my 2010 Elantra. Now at 260k, drive in below zero to 95 degree gridlock traffic with ac blasting, never had a cooling/heating issue.
 
Also, if you use the ZAF you probably don't need a ball tester since it is premixed. But then again only a few bucks. They measure density and do not tell you if the anticorrosion additives are spent. Do a drop and fill once every 75 k and you should be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: larrystorchrules
Keep it simple. Get zerex asian formula, do a couple drop and fills, yiu will have about 75% fresh coolant. Unless the stuff already in there was really nasty, then do a third drop and fill. I have used ZAF since 60k in my 2010 Elantra. Now at 260k, drive in below zero to 95 degree gridlock traffic with ac blasting, never had a cooling/heating issue.


When you drained the original coolant and then filled with the 50/50 mix Zerex Asian coolant, did you just drive it around for a little while and then do the second drop and fill? I'm just asking because I haven't changed my own coolant before .... In the past with my other vehicles, I always let a mechanic do a drain, flush, and fill with the same kind of coolant that was already in there. I'd like to just do a drain and refill this time, and I want to use the Zerex Asian coolant.
 
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