Nissan 3.5 VQ - oil to protect timing chain guides

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Originally Posted By: rcy
The VQ apparently has a problem with the secondary timing chains wearing out the plastic tensioner guide shoes. Any recommendations for an oil that will protect plastic (or I guess help with metal chain rubbing on plastic guide shoes) or is this just a [censored] design flaw, no matter what oil I run.

Thanks.


I would be inclined to use Castrol 0w30 Euro formula. If you can't find that then PP 5w30. But I would stick to a severe service OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: rcy
The VQ apparently has a problem with the secondary timing chains wearing out the plastic tensioner guide shoes. Any recommendations for an oil that will protect plastic (or I guess help with metal chain rubbing on plastic guide shoes) or is this just a [censored] design flaw, no matter what oil I run.

Thanks.


I've got a 2004 Altima with the VQ 3.5L engine. From all the research I did on the timing chain guides getting worn out, I heard the root cause was that some of the timing chains were made with sharp edges on the individual links that make up the chain, and they therefore basically "saw through" the nylon guide material over time.

It might help to use a good oil and change it regularly, but if the chain is made with these sharp edged links it will eventually eat up the tensioners.
 
Originally Posted By: rcy
2004 Maxima SE Elite. Just got the car used, with 170 000 kilometres on it. It's not noisy, so maybe I've lucked out. I checked it on cold start and after driving for some time.


170,000 km = 105,600 miles. What I've heard is if the cam chain is going to chew down the tensioners that it usually happens before 100,000 miles. Mileage could vary. Also, once the tensioner material has been chewed through, the chain will start rubbing on the metal plunger and cause a buzzing noise all the time ... regardless if the engine is cold or warm.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I hear no buzzing at any time, so hopefully, I'm good. I'm leaning toward the Castrol 0w30 and 5000-6000km OCI.

The Euro formula is different than the Castrol Edge Titanium, which seems to be the one available in Canada?
 
Cam chains are a funny thing. Depending on how sharp the die is when punching out each link some chain edges are ultra smooth which means the die was sharp and new,and as the die dulls the chain link edges become more rough which chews up the chain guides.
So oil choice has very little impact on the life of the chain guides.
 
Originally Posted By: Ram01
So is it better to have a timing belt ????????????????????????


IMO no. Timing belts don't tell you they are worn.
The timing chain does with that noise/rattle.

And they last much longer than belts.
 
Originally Posted By: Ram01
So is it better to have a timing belt ????????????????????????


Belts break, chains stretch, and gears are noisy.
There is no perfect way to drive a cam, especially an overhead cam. Chains seem to have won out for now, but they need extensive guides and tensioning systems to get durability. The reason that chains have gotten an advantage is that the belt was a maintenance item, and people wouldn't change them on schedule.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I am no expert but I would imagine a thicker oil would be of more benefit than brand X,Y, or Z. I would go with any name brand oil in whatever weight you VQ specs that is on the higher side of the spec. Does that make any since? So if it requires a 5w30 and the spec for 30 grades is 9-12 cst at 100'C (not sure what those exact numbers are) go with the oil that has the cst of 12.


I agree. Go with a 40 weight (if the "fuel economy" spec is 5W30,go with a 5W40).


Ditto.
 
Use to run 10w-50 in the race engines to help with chain and top end wear they struggle with, they like to shear oil down mind, even with a 50 in.
 
Not to mention cam timing can be affected by the chain stretching which affects the 360 degree circle.
A belt maintains the exact cam timing so in that respect they are better than chains.

Something like mos2 might help coat the chains rough edges improving guide life,in theory,in practice it may not help because the plating effect requires heat and pressure.
 
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Originally Posted By: Ram01
So is it better to have a timing belt ????????????????????????


They both have advantages and disadvantages. Better or worse depends on which aspect you are looking at.
 
Originally Posted By: rcy
Thanks for all the responses. I hear no buzzing at any time, so hopefully, I'm good. I'm leaning toward the Castrol 0w30 and 5000-6000km OCI.
The Euro formula is different than the Castrol Edge Titanium, which seems to be the one available in Canada?


Castrol 0w-40 euro is now using titanium, according to my memory of seeing some VOA.
That said, here is a quote from an inside Australian source:

Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
I've posted so many times about GC, but you fail to have got the hint that I know quite a bit about it.

GC is still the same no matter where made, the formulation/ reciepe is the same just its cooked in Belgium now rather then Germany. Belgium has castrol's biggest blend plant in Europe.

For 0W-30 A3/B4 there are two formulations globally. One is GC the other is GC plus a Ti boost, nothing has changed with GC for over 10 years.
Australia and Europe have had 0W-40 A3/B4 for a long time , produced in EU or Malaysia. This is the same 0W-40 A3/B4 formulation that US now get. Again there is a non Ti and Ti version.

The 0W-30 and 0W-40 only differ in VM treat. The 0W-30 is a thick 30 with about 12.1 kv100 and 3.5hths. The 0W-40 is a thin 40 grad but as it has the MB229.5 spec it maintains viscosity grade after a KO90 shear test.

I'm sure all the marketing changed with names and branding have confused things. But the oil in the bottle is still the same trusted formulation.
 
Originally Posted By: rcy
The VQ apparently has a problem with the secondary timing chains wearing out the plastic tensioner guide shoes. Any recommendations for an oil that will protect plastic (or I guess help with metal chain rubbing on plastic guide shoes) or is this just a [censored] design flaw, no matter what oil I run.

Thanks.



Between myself and my family, we've had a few VQ-engined vehicles in the stable for many years. Although I no longer have one, I put over 250,000 km on my VQ-powered 2005 Altima over 7 years.

Let me clarify... There are many problems that have been noted with the VQ timing chain setup. The secondary timing chain issue that you're talking about is due to defective chains that have sharp edges (as other posters have already mentioned). If your car had that problem, it would have already come up. If it hasn't yet, then it probably won't (and this particular problem cannot be addressed by oil selection or viscosity selection).

Now, although less common in this engine family, the primary chain can have a multitude of issues depending on how lucky you are. Chain stretch/wear over time is an issue, as well as primary chain guide failures. Also, primary tensioners are known to go bad, become lazy, or have the plastic guide worn off of them so that the actual tensioner plunger (metal cylinder) contacts the chain and wears it out much more quickly. Primary chain problems can manifest themselves by causing a momentary rattle on cold start-up, poor performance due to mildly affected cam timing, or rattle at high RPM due to improper chain tension (caused by failed guides). These are all very difficult to fix in place, and most dealers will pull the engine as it's easier to do it this way. My car had some sort of primary tension issues towards the end, but still ran okay (but with some reduced performance). I suspect that some of the guides were wearing down and were coming up for replacement.

In any case, I believe these primary chain and tensioner issues are caused by many factors, one being oil viscosity, two being oil temperature, and three being cheap parts / poor design. Two of these items are in your control. I typically used a 30 grade synthetic oil for the life of the car (0W30 or 5W30), but that didn't get me anywhere (obviously) since chain issues still crept up on me. A friend of mine uses nothing but 0W40 (either Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec 0W40) and he does not have any chain problems with his VQ. Mind you, he is not up to the mileage that I had (yet), although he's getting close to 200,000 km already.

My opinion would be to use 0W40, and also add an oil cooler kit (many bolt-on kits available for the VQ) if you want added benefit / protection of cooler oil. The VQ heats oil up very quickly, and runs with hotter oil temperatures than most commuter vehicles (even with a factory equipped oil-coolant heat exchanger). Plus, if you read your owner's manual closely, you will see that Nissan recommends 5W30, 10W30, and 10W40 for VQ engined (up to a certain year before they took that wording out of North American manuals lol). Mine certainly recommended those grades, which means that a 40 grade oil is completely safe and recommended for use by Nissan (in 2005 anyway).

You have nothing to lose
wink.gif
 
Don't forget that the GM engines with chain issues now require shorter OCI's and dealerships locally are recommending higher viscosity. I'd guess that the particulates accumulated during long drain intervals, coupled with the possible loss of viscosity (fuel dilution related? ) is responsible for amazingly short chain life.

It does seem that in those GM engines, the "fix" works. And, yes, 0W,5W-40 synthetics are the oils I've seen recommended.
 
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My experience with the nissan 3.5. I had a 04 quest that i bought used from a buddy at work. I bought it at about 90K miles. This guy has owned the van since about 30K miles. He was a stickler for 4000 mile changes with PYB. He got in a bad situation and needed to sell the van so i picked it up. It was perfect for wife and kids. When i bought it it had a slight whine in the engine upon acceleration. Over the next 6k miles it continued to get worse. Turns out it was the secondary timing chain.

I did a decent amount of research about what oil to use to protect the new chain/pads better I believe this is what i believe.

The engines are not the easiest engines on oil.
They are sensitive to startup oil pressure
Slightly thicker oil helps protect the pads a little better.
Do not reuse oil filters for two or three oil changes

In the end i think using a wide viscosity oil like 0w40 or 5w40 is a very good compromise. Rotella 10w30 or 10w40 may be a good choice . I ran 5w40 in mine for 40K miles before we sold it and it ran great on it.

If i understand it correctly, the tensioner are driven off oil pressure so if you go too heavy then it puts more force than necessary on the tensioner than necessary and may increase wear. I believe the engine works best on a heavy 30 light 40 range.
 
Does the lag in oil pressure right after startup affect how quickly the tensioner starts working? Would lighter or heavier oil help the tensioner work better?
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Don't forget that the GM engines with chain issues now require shorter OCI's and dealerships locally are recommending higher viscosity. I'd guess that the particulates accumulated during long drain intervals, coupled with the possible loss of viscosity (fuel dilution related? ) is responsible for amazingly short chain life.

It does seem that in those GM engines, the "fix" works. And, yes, 0W,5W-40 synthetics are the oils I've seen recommended.


GM only allows dexos oils during warranty, and those only come in Xw-20 and Xw-30 weights, not 40's. They should allow the heavier HTHS euro oils in some of their engines, but EPA CAFE MPG rules it out.
 
Originally Posted By: datech
Does the lag in oil pressure right after startup affect how quickly the tensioner starts working? Would lighter or heavier oil help the tensioner work better?


I'd add Polymeric Ester additives to get the chain coated better at start-up, since it adds polarity and clinginess to oil on metal surfaces sliding over the plastic at startup. Discussed a lot elsewhere, search engine that. Hyperlube Zinc Replacement Additive or Lubegard BioTech both should do it.
 
Originally Posted By: datech
Does the lag in oil pressure right after startup affect how quickly the tensioner starts working? Would lighter or heavier oil help the tensioner work better?


From what i understand, and could be wrong, but the rattle at startup is harmless. Thinner will cause the noise at startup to be shorter. I believe the pressure that the tensioner places on the chain is increased as oil viscosity is increased.
 
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